burdie5533

My 06 C6 is having electrical problems when hot (above 95 outside)
First the traction control warning comes on
Then the ABS Break warning
Then the fuel gage stops working
Then the temperture and oil pressure gages
The air quits
The average fuel milage etc stops working

It runs fine except if I shut it off, it will not start until it cools down. I think this has someting to do with theft deterent as that indicator stays on.

After it cools down everything is fine.

Is it the BCM overheating, grounding issues????
No trouble codes are being set.

Gearhead Jim

When a C6 starts doing goofy stuff with the electronics, the first place to start is the battery and all its connections. Including the battery-to-starter cable, from underneath.

Keep us posted...

djbrun

Heat goes up, resistance goes up, I would start with the main power and ground cables.


DJ

cartwheel

Hows the battery? Summer heat kills batteries.

TripleAstyle123

Replace the battery. Its cheap and seems to fix most C6 electrical issues. Let us know if it works for you. Good Luck

SUB VETTE

Agree! New battery is the place to start.

Knob Jockey

After the battery and it's connections are tight, the next place to check is the fuse box.

There have been many posts about electrical gremlins that were fixed by replacing the fuse box.

Apparently, the connections on the under-side of the box can be intermittent and affected by heat.

Good luck with this PITA.

burdie5533

Thanks for the thoughts. This started when the heat killed the Optima battery that was in it. I bought a regular lead cell battery. The only gage that works when all the problems are occuring is the voltage gauge which shows 14 volts. I will check connections.

burdie5533

Well, $700 later and a new BCM last fall, everything was fixed. Now that it is getting hot again, the problems are all back. Only happens above 85F. Could I have fried a BCM again or ground issues? Are ther any grounds in the engine compartment that affect the BCM? It does not make any difference if I have the top up and the air on and cool inside where the BCM is. It takes about 15 minutes before the problems start and they normally occur when idling at a stop light (when the voltage is the lowest). If I shut off the car, it needs to cool for about 20 minutes before it will start again. IF I get up to highway speed, the gages start working again but the secrutiy light and traction control light stay on until it cools

KB9GKC

RicK T

I'm very surprised by that and having trouble believing it. Maybe you need a better code reader? Just sayin'. Not accusing you of anything.


Sorry to hear you're having these issues again. Of course all we can do is spit ball possible fixes without having a lot more info. So.....check this thread:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...g-gremlin.html

And just to say again, I can't believe there are no trouble codes with something like this. It sounds very much like communication errors that "may" be associated with heat expansion of one or more connectors. Connector problems can require deep inspection, down to individual wires/pins in the connectors.

Best of luck and keep us informed.

burdie5533

Thanks for the lead. Will check tonight. I get the "too many codes to read" and communication error when I take it to the dealer also.

Chevy Cust Svc

Hey burdie5533,

If you want to private message me your VIN number and mileage I would be happy to look for any open service related announcements. Keep me posted on the progress of your codes!

Kelly J.
Chevrolet Customer Care

burdie5533

Two weeks ago, I disassembled the engine bay fuse block and cleaned everything. Had a little water mark on the internal plastic plate but nothing on the contacts. One of the wires looked like it corroded a bit. I polished everything up and checked resistance and everything was good. Put back together and had the same issues the next two days.

Following the post above, I took both connectors off the BCM/internal fuse block apart and checked all the pins and wires. Didn't see anything out of ordanary so put back together but left the floor mat/cover open. Have only had three days above 85 due to rain but so far so good. Time will tell if this fixed the problem

martzboy

I'm having the same EXACT problems with my 2005 C6. I believe battery and alternator are in top shape. On hot summer days when car is outside and gets hot all kinds of warnings appear on the dash exactly as described on original post above. When car cools down everything works perfectly. Afraid to drive car when temp is above 85 degrees outside for fear of being stranded. Zero problems all year long when temp is below 85 degrees. Endured through last summer and now fighting it again this summer.

Would appreciate anyone sharing with this forum if they have solved this mystery.

burdie5533

I have tried running with the carpet folded back over the BCM with no help. Cleaned ground for BCM. Still have issues above 85F. Martzboy, sorry you have the same issue and I too am afraid to drive in the summer which is when I want to drive it because its a convert.

I bought a new scanner because my old one didn't seem to read any codes. I got a Innova 3030. It works on my other cars (07 Avalanche)but when I plug it into my C6 I get a yellow light indicating that all checks have not finished. I get no codes.

I wonder what is the proper procedure to check with a manual transmission. I have tried in ACC and also by pushing the start button without depressing the clutch pedal (so it goes to on but does not start).

This all points to a BCM communication problem and I would think is related more to a connection, possibly power feed and/or someting in the engine bay, than to a BCM module problem as the module is in air-conditioned space. (and the BCM was replaced last year)

martzboy

Really stumped. If I leave car out in the summer heat, it may or may not start. If it does, the gauges all are 0, except for voltage and the errors display shocks inop, low fuel, anti-lock brakes, etc., and air-conditioning does not work. When car is able to cool outside of the heat elements, it will start right up and everything works perfectly.

Gotta be something under the hood. A connection or module of some kind that gets too hot and causes resistance. My interior arm rest console interior does get hot and I've fried two cigarette lighter adapters to my iphone so don't know if that's related.

SCBigfish

I have the same problem with my 06 when it gets hot out.

I have traced it to my iPod connector. At first, when it would get hot outside, my iPod and XM would just shut down and I had only FM. I would disconnect it and let in sit over night and all was fine (except the iPod connector really decreases the overall volume of all music options) Then the other day I was driving down the highway and plugged my iphone into the connector and everything shut down except the engine and I got all the warnings . I got home and disconnected the iPod connector and then the battery and let it sit for 15mins. Plugged it all back in and started it up and everything was fine. I have not connected anything back to the iPod connecter over the last 2 weeks and its has been really hot out and I have not had any problems.

I have the Version 2 PAL. Anyone else have the PAL and the same problem?

burdie5533

I have a new update. It seems to be getting worse. It used to only have problems above 85F. Now that it is starting to get warm, it did it at 70 degrees. After spending a lot of time on alldata, I have tracked it down to one area on the BCM. It appears that there is a large red and black wire in circuit 242 that splits at splice 208. This feeds connecter 3 terminals 6 and 1. The issue I am having all feed from terminal 1. I resoldered splice 208 and cleaned both of the terminals and spade connectors (requires removing two little blue keepers to get the terminals out of the connector block. I coated the spades with dielectric grease and reassembled. Hope this works.

PS. I only seem to have the problem when sitting at a stoplight or drive through in hot weather. It seams like a voltage problem. I hope the connectors help but am going to look and see if there are any underdrive pulleys or alternator issues next.

burdie5533

I hate to keep updating this old post but I finally fixed the problem and thought others would like to know. I took the car back to the dealership and they wanted to start replacing modules on the comms buss starting with the ECM. I didn't want to loose my programming or start to pay for many modules (the BCM didnt fix the problem). I started keeping religious documentation of all the codes when the problem occured (generally 6-10 with several repeats). They always had communication errors and an antilock brake error. This weekend, I removed the Alternator to get access, removed the connector, cleaned and re-seated and walah!!! Drove 160 miles in stop and go traffic in the 90's and no issues.