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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 07:56 AM
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Default Cooling question

Almost 6 years ago I installed a ProCharger system on my 2005 C6. At the time, there had been a few issues with the system throwing belts, so I also went with the Meziere EWP, thinking if I did lose a belt, I could still get home with the cooling system in tact.
Now, 35k miles later, the Meziere has stopped working, and my question is:

Since I've never thrown a belt, will I lose any cooling capacity if I return to using a stock water pump? The Meziere pushed a constant 55 gph, and, I think, the stock pump's capacity is only 22 gph @ 5500 rpm.

Also, the radiator is a Ron Davis unit with internal oil cooler.

Thanks
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by EuroRod
Almost 6 years ago I installed a ProCharger system on my 2005 C6. At the time, there had been a few issues with the system throwing belts, so I also went with the Meziere EWP, thinking if I did lose a belt, I could still get home with the cooling system in tact.
Now, 35k miles later, the Meziere has stopped working, and my question is:

Since I've never thrown a belt, will I lose any cooling capacity if I return to using a stock water pump? The Meziere pushed a constant 55 gph, and, I think, the stock pump's capacity is only 22 gph @ 5500 rpm.

Also, the radiator is a Ron Davis unit with internal oil cooler.

Thanks
You said you were throwing belts with the stock water pump, is how I read the above. Isn't that going to cause you the same problem if you don't go back to an EWP ? You probably will run a little hotter. My buddy is running around 217 degrees with the stock pump/pro charger
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 09:09 AM
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Don't laugh, but it may run cooler because water going through the motor at a fast rate doesn't transfer the heat well.

If you are old and followed the Can Am in the late 60's, there was a Shadow car that had all kinds of over heating problems because it flowed to much coolant.

Just a thought.
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 09:23 AM
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I've seen plenty of SC cars running fine on the stock pump and upgraded radiators like a RD or DeWitts. I think you'll be fine but heavy stop-n-go you would see more benefits with the EWP but constant high rpm the stock pump will be better.
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by pit-man
You said you were throwing belts with the stock water pump, is how I read the above. Isn't that going to cause you the same problem if you don't go back to an EWP ? You probably will run a little hotter. My buddy is running around 217 degrees with the stock pump/pro charger
No, I've never lost a belt, but there were a few, on this forum, that did, and, with the EWP, I was trying to avoid a potential overheating problem should I, in fact, toss a belt.
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by timd38
Don't laugh, but it may run cooler because water going through the motor at a fast rate doesn't transfer the heat well.

If you are old and followed the Can Am in the late 60's, there was a Shadow car that had all kinds of over heating problems because it flowed to much coolant.

Just a thought.
Yes, I am aware that pushing coolant too fast through the radiator could not leave the coolant enough time to disapate the heat, however, with the Meziere, my car ran cool all the time, so the pump was doing it's job. Since tossing a belt seems to no longer be an issue, I was hoping to save $$$ and install a stock mechanical pump, but, I didn't know how the stock pump would perform compared to the EWP and keeping the car cool.
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by LEAVINU
I've seen plenty of SC cars running fine on the stock pump and upgraded radiators like a RD or DeWitts. I think you'll be fine but heavy stop-n-go you would see more benefits with the EWP but constant high rpm the stock pump will be better.
Since I still have the stock pump, I'm leaning toward reinstalling it. If it keeps the car cool, fine. If it doesn't, then all I'm out is my time.
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by EuroRod
Since I still have the stock pump, I'm leaning toward reinstalling it. If it keeps the car cool, fine. If it doesn't, then all I'm out is my time.
That's what I would do. I don't think you will miss the hp loss.
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by timd38
That's what I would do. I don't think you will miss the hp loss.
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 01:13 PM
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The ewp should have two fuses both are 20amp mini fuses. One will be the 12v lead going to the relay and the other is the 12v supply lead going to the ewp.

Just had a car here last week with an ewp on it and both fuses where blown.
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by WCC Josh
The ewp should have two fuses both are 20amp mini fuses. One will be the 12v lead going to the relay and the other is the 12v supply lead going to the ewp.

Just had a car here last week with an ewp on it and both fuses where blown.
Yes, the fuse was blown, but the pump sounds like the bearings are shot. Makes more rackett than the ProCharger. I figured that the bearings were dragging, and causing the fuse to blow.
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 06:57 PM
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You could install the stock pump while you send your EPW in for a rebuild at Meziere. The rebuild cost about $250 and takes about 2 days. Your stock pump will flow more than 22gpm at 5500 rpm; it might even flow more than the Meziere pump at that RPM. The EWP will flow way more at idle and cruse speeds then the stock pump.

Sorry guys flowing the water to fast will not cause the water to get hotter, It’s a internet myth.

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tec...ech_Tips_3.htm
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 1leg
You could install the stock pump while you send your EPW in for a rebuild at Meziere. The rebuild cost about $250 and takes about 2 days. Your stock pump will flow more than 22gpm at 5500 rpm; it might even flow more than the Meziere pump at that RPM. The EWP will flow way more at idle and cruse speeds then the stock pump.

Sorry guys flowing the water to fast will not cause the water to get hotter, It’s a internet myth.
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tec...ech_Tips_3.htm
Maybe, maybe not.

http://community.discovery.com/eve/f...6/m/3301906669
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 1leg
You could install the stock pump while you send your EPW in for a rebuild at Meziere. The rebuild cost about $250 and takes about 2 days. Your stock pump will flow more than 22gpm at 5500 rpm; it might even flow more than the Meziere pump at that RPM. The EWP will flow way more at idle and cruse speeds then the stock pump.

Sorry guys flowing the water to fast will not cause the water to get hotter, It’s a internet myth.

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tec...ech_Tips_3.htm
Of course it won't get hotter, it simply won't cool sufficiently It will then re-enter the engine and continue to get hotter. It's a compounding effect that can result in overheating.
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 1leg
Sorry guys flowing the water to fast will not cause the water to get hotter, It’s a internet myth.
I see this from time to time on Corvette Forum, and you are correct - it's a myth. Other things being equal, heat transfer via conduction is dependent only on the temperature difference between the two conductors. The faster the water flow, the greater the temperature difference and thus the more cooling you get. It's not a matter of opinion, or logic, or whatever somebody thinks they saw - its physics (Fourier's Law of Thermal Conduction). If somebody really has seen otherwise then something else has happened, like a change from laminar to turbulent flow, water pump cavitation, etc.
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by John Harry
I see this from time to time on Corvette Forum, and you are correct - it's a myth. Other things being equal, heat transfer via conduction is dependent only on the temperature difference between the two conductors. The faster the water flow, the greater the temperature difference and thus the more cooling you get. It's not a matter of opinion, or logic, or whatever somebody thinks they saw - its physics (Fourier's Law of Thermal Conduction). If somebody really has seen otherwise then something else has happened, like a change from laminar to turbulent flow, water pump cavitation, etc.
Read Peter Bryant's book called the Can-Am Challenger and he will disagree with you. The first Shadow Can-Am car (the go kart looking one) kept getting bigger and bigger radiators and never got cool until they slowed down the water pump.

I do not claim to be an expert or claim to know anything about cooling systems, but this guy designed Can-Am and Formula 1 cars, so I respect what he has to say.

Thanks!
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 10:46 AM
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My understanding on the slowing the pump down was that the pumps back in the day had impellors that would cause cavitation at high RPM. By slowing the pump down they actually made the pumps flow more water. Which worked great for these cars because they idled at around 2000 to 3000 rpm, these cars didn't suffer from the slow speed over heating that the typical roundly round guys had when they slowed their pumps down. Now you have much better designed impellors and water pumps that can handle the higher RPM.
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 1leg
My understanding on the slowing the pump down was that the pumps back in the day had impellors that would cause cavitation at high RPM. By slowing the pump down they actually made the pumps flow more water. Which worked great for these cars because they idled at around 2000 to 3000 rpm, these cars didn't suffer from the slow speed over heating that the typical roundly round guys had when they slowed their pumps down. Now you have much better designed impellors and water pumps that can handle the higher RPM.
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