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For maintenance reasons, I will be changing the Dexcool this fall.
The plan is to drain the rad and remove the thermostat, to get as much Dexcool out of the engine/rad without actually flushing the system. If the fluid comes out clean, then I will just add a 50/50 mix of distilled water and AC Delco Dexcool.
Questions:
1. Do I have to add any sealant/lube on the thermostat "O" ring and flange?
2. Is any sealer/lube required on the thermostat bolts?
3. Is there a safe way of getting any air locks out of the engine? I noticed there is a bleeder hose of sorts coming out of the filler reservoir. Should I try blowing into this hose to help burp the system?
For maintenance reasons, I will be changing the Dexcool this fall.
The plan is to drain the rad and remove the thermostat, to get as much Dexcool out of the engine/rad without actually flushing the system. If the fluid comes out clean, then I will just add a 50/50 mix of distilled water and AC Delco Dexcool.
Questions:
1. Do I have to add any sealant/lube on the thermostat "O" ring and flange?
2. Is any sealer/lube required on the thermostat bolts?
3. Is there a safe way of getting any air locks out of the engine? I noticed there is a bleeder hose of sorts coming out of the filler reservoir. Should I try blowing into this hose to help burp the system?
Thanks,
M...
From what I have read there is no need to remove thermostat. Simply just open the draincock on passenger side on bottom of radiator and replace with same. You won't get all the old stuff out but that's the way the cooling system is unlike other cars that have a radiator cap on top of radiator to do a superflush until you get clear running water with no anti-freeze in it.
Just draining the radiator by opening the draincock will leave a lot of coolant in the block. Loosening the thermostat housing will allow much of the coolant in the block to drain.
Nothinig needed on the bolts but I personally like the added confidence of a little liquid gasket around the housing. I've reused the thermo o-ring numerous times without issue but always spread a thin film on the housing just in case.
Just draining the radiator by opening the draincock will leave a lot of coolant in the block. Loosening the thermostat housing will allow much of the coolant in the block to drain.
Nothinig needed on the bolts but I personally like the added confidence of a little liquid gasket around the housing. I've reused the thermo o-ring numerous times without issue but always spread a thin film on the housing just in case.
From what I have read there is no need to remove thermostat. Simply just open the draincock on passenger side on bottom of radiator and replace with same. You won't get all the old stuff out but that's the way the cooling system is unlike other cars that have a radiator cap on top of radiator to do a superflush until you get clear running water with no anti-freeze in it.
I just did my 07 LS2 vert over the weekend. I carefully measured the drainable coolant just for future reference. I turkey bastered the surge tank first. It is real close to 36 oz total capacity. Next I drained the radiator and whatever else came out with it. That was another 6 qts. That left about 5-1/2 qts in the block by my estimation with a 12.5 qt system. I did a drain and refill twice to get as much out as possible. My coolant still looked great at 21k+ miles so I felt the 2x change was good enough. BTW - the surge tank will drain thru the radiator drain so the turkey baster is unnecessary other then to measure the surge tank capacity separately.