Questions on deleting Diff Cooler from ZR1 Diff!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,261
Likes: 26
From: Concord NC
Questions on deleting Diff Cooler from ZR1 Diff!
I have been searching around the forum a little and havent ran across any info on this yet! I am installing a ZR1 torque tube/tranny/diff in my 07 and I want to delete the diff cooler. I am wondering if anyone can give me some tips on what I need to pull this off as far as plugs for trans lines and so on!
Thanks
Stephen
Thanks
Stephen
Former Vendor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 682
Likes: 11
From: Anderson Indiana
Ok. Being a non-Z51 car you will need to build a loop line to run from the outlet of the pump on the front passenger side of the transmissions, over the top of the trans and back into the return port on the driver side of the trans. You will need to put a small notch in the passenger side of your torque tube bell housing where the trans meets, for the cooler line to exit.
Once you take care of the trans pump then you can work on deleting the differential pump. You will need a blank C5 or C6 base model differential rear cover and gasket. You can use the drain plug from your differential to plug the rear cooler line hole and you will need a 14mm x 1.5 o-ring style plug for the hole in the driver side cover.
Hope this helps get you rolling. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Jeremy
Once you take care of the trans pump then you can work on deleting the differential pump. You will need a blank C5 or C6 base model differential rear cover and gasket. You can use the drain plug from your differential to plug the rear cooler line hole and you will need a 14mm x 1.5 o-ring style plug for the hole in the driver side cover.
Hope this helps get you rolling. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Jeremy
Former Vendor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 682
Likes: 11
From: Anderson Indiana
To put a cooler on a non-diff cooler car you will have to machine the pinion gear. That is the biggest task. We can do that for you for $150.00 + shipping. Then you will have to cut and lengthen your return line so it reaches the heat exchanger. Then you will need to purchase the cooler line from the heat exchanger to the return port on the driver side of the transmission. You will need to purchase the line for an 06-08 Z06 because the return location changed in 2009.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,261
Likes: 26
From: Concord NC
Thanks for the info Jeremy, I am actually awaiting a phone call back from TJ with a price for all the parts from you guys 
Btw I received the entire bellhousing along with the zr1 TT so I think the provision for the cooler line is already there!
Btw I received the entire bellhousing along with the zr1 TT so I think the provision for the cooler line is already there!
Former Vendor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 682
Likes: 11
From: Anderson Indiana
Did you get the shifter linkage rod from the ZR1 as well? in 09-13 GM shortend the entire torque tube and shifter linkage rod.
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Former Vendor
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Anderson Indiana
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,950
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From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
Great info RPM.
Shoaf if there is any way to keep the cooler I would do it if I was you.
I have a diff temp gauge in my car and in normal highway driving it gets up to 250. When I used to road course the diff temp would be the thing that would get me off the track. My factory oil cooler and trans cooler kept things in check but the diff got hot, 280+, in 20 minutes. I do have 4.10 gears so that might have affected things.
My point is, a diff cooler is a very beneficial thing if there's any way to keep it in your car. I wish I had one.
p.s. that diff drain plug is an oddball size and not easy to get. I found that Ecklers sells a magnetic drain plug which I drilled out and tapped for the temp sending unit, in case anyone is interested. Plus, use an oil temp gauge as they go up to 300 vs. 270 for water gauges if you decide to put in a gauge. I have one gauge with a toggle for trans temp or diff temp.
Shoaf if there is any way to keep the cooler I would do it if I was you.
I have a diff temp gauge in my car and in normal highway driving it gets up to 250. When I used to road course the diff temp would be the thing that would get me off the track. My factory oil cooler and trans cooler kept things in check but the diff got hot, 280+, in 20 minutes. I do have 4.10 gears so that might have affected things.
My point is, a diff cooler is a very beneficial thing if there's any way to keep it in your car. I wish I had one.
p.s. that diff drain plug is an oddball size and not easy to get. I found that Ecklers sells a magnetic drain plug which I drilled out and tapped for the temp sending unit, in case anyone is interested. Plus, use an oil temp gauge as they go up to 300 vs. 270 for water gauges if you decide to put in a gauge. I have one gauge with a toggle for trans temp or diff temp.
Former Vendor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 682
Likes: 11
From: Anderson Indiana
To use the shorter ZR1 cradle you will need to elongate all 4 mounting holes in the cradle. They need to be slotted towards the front of the car roughly 5/8". Another option is to purchase an 09+ rear cradle. I do have a late shifter rod. I will go through them and find it this afternoon and let you know how much it will be.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,261
Likes: 26
From: Concord NC
Ok sounds good thanks!
Im sure that you already know but the diff mounting holes in the cradle are slotted to allow for slight adjustment front to rear it seems, is this not enough or will I still need to elongate the holes more?
Im sure that you already know but the diff mounting holes in the cradle are slotted to allow for slight adjustment front to rear it seems, is this not enough or will I still need to elongate the holes more?
Former Vendor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 682
Likes: 11
From: Anderson Indiana
Yes they will need to be slotted quite a bit more towards the front. The best way to judge how much would be to install the torque tube, trans and differential into the car with the mounts installed on the differential. Place the cradle into the car and tighten the mounting bolts. Then lower the differential down onto the cradle till the mount studs touch the cradle and mark their position. Then clearance the mounting holes accordingly.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
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From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Here's some pics of a 2009 Z06 I did some work on last week
1. Removed/replaced trans (bent shift rod/internal trans) trans shop stated this was a problem with Tremec, was a NE shop that did the repair under warr.
2. Replaced the trans harness, the GM dealer wasn't too focused on proper routing(trans was replaced prior), the LHS harness was resting on the muffler pipe causing a Left Rear Wheel TCS code
3. 2009 Torque Tube measured in at 55"
Pics of the lower and more forward trans return location(2009 up), the 2009up cradle and the damaged harness; aligned the car before the hour drive back to the CT shoreline
1. Removed/replaced trans (bent shift rod/internal trans) trans shop stated this was a problem with Tremec, was a NE shop that did the repair under warr.
2. Replaced the trans harness, the GM dealer wasn't too focused on proper routing(trans was replaced prior), the LHS harness was resting on the muffler pipe causing a Left Rear Wheel TCS code
3. 2009 Torque Tube measured in at 55"
Pics of the lower and more forward trans return location(2009 up), the 2009up cradle and the damaged harness; aligned the car before the hour drive back to the CT shoreline