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I'm having a problem from shifting 1st to 2nd occasionally --- the dealer says I have a lock-out system that forces me to go to 4th gear under some driving conditions. They aren't clear about what these conditions are...I don't think I need this feature -- can it be disabled or can someone explain how I can change my driving to avoid activating the system.
When this light comes on, the
vehicle can only be shifted from
1 (First) to 4 (Fourth) instead of
1 (First) to 2 (Second).
The shift must be completed into
4 (Fourth) to turn off this feature.
This helps the vehicle get the best
possible fuel economy.
After shifting to 4 (Fourth), the
vehicle can be downshifted to a
lower gear.
Notice: Forcing the shift lever
into any gear except 4 (Fourth)
when the 1 TO 4 SHIFT light
comes on may damage the
transmission. Shift only from
1 (First) to 4 (Fourth) when the
light comes on.
This light comes on when:
. The engine coolant temperature
is higher than 76°C (169°F).
. The vehicle is going 24 to
31 km/h (15 to 19 mph).
. The vehicle is at 21 percent
throttle or less.
I'm having a problem from shifting 1st to 2nd occasionally --- the dealer says I have a lock-out system that forces me to go to 4th gear under some driving conditions. They aren't clear about what these conditions are...I don't think I need this feature -- can it be disabled or can someone explain how I can change my driving to avoid activating the system.
I find that when the engine and car are cold 1st to 2nd shifiting is a problem, so I tend to stay in 1st a little longer but my shift is 1st to 3rd. Once eveything is warmed up 1st to 2nd is not an issue.
I'm having a problem from shifting 1st to 2nd occasionally
Whether or not it's the skip-shift feature, I'd defeat it. Many of us did that since day 1. I chose the more reliable method of disconnecting the tranny solenoid and installing a $20 kit that plugs the solenoid and adds a resistor to the harness, all in matching connectors. That protects everything, and can be reversed in minutes if desired.
Originally Posted by ken breaux
I find that when the engine and car are cold 1st to 2nd shifiting is a problem, so I tend to stay in 1st a little longer but my shift is 1st to 3rd. Once eveything is warmed up 1st to 2nd is not an issue.
Same here with my '12 GS. Adjusted the shifter box, and that helped a little. Also replaced tranny fluid with Amsoil Torque-Drive, and helped a little more. And yet another improvement was when I shimmed the detent bolt with a copper washer, making the tranny less notchy, but still with plenty of spring centering force. Finally, you need to fully clutch in gear changes when cold. And to avoid the crunching what I'm doing now is waiting for revs to drop about where they'd be in 2nd gear, and it goes in without crunching or having to shove it. It's the opposite of rev-matching on downshifts. You shift to N, and wait for the revs to pass where you want them to be, then shift to 2nd. I usually don't rev the engine past 2K rpm in 1st gear when cold, so I know where the revs need to be for a smooth shift. Once tranny heats up enough, it's almost perfect. You should try that too .
CAGS (skip shift) is only active under certain light throttle conditions. Most of the time these are encountered in traffic where you are following another car away from a traffic light. To keep CAGS from activating under light throttle make sure you shift from 1st to 2nd gear before the car speed hits 14 mph. I try to shift at 10 mph (every C5/C6 can easily make the shift at that speed and still be able to outrun most anything else on the road if the driver needs to suddenly drop the hammer). If you wait too long and CAGS activates you can move the shifter towards third and then pull it back to second or you can wait until car speed hits 20 mph to make the shift from 1st to 2nd. If you are slightly aggressive on the throttle CAGS will not activate at all. You can train yourself to avoid CAGS in a few moments for free and spend the $20 other people spend on the CAGS eliminator for something else.