GS front brake job tools?

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Jan 22, 2013 | 08:51 PM

Thomasmoto

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From: GREER SC

GS front brake job tools?

I'm gonna be replacing the pads on the front of my 2011 Grand Sport this coming Saturday. Are there any special tools I will need for the job?
Thanks, David

Jan 22, 2013 | 09:59 PM

RicK T

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Joined: Sep 2005

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From: Ventura County, Calif

Some good tips in here:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...n-2011-gs.html

And more good general info in here even though it's about caliper removal:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...-calipers.html

Edit: Here's another one I just remembered:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...tructions.html

Last edited by RicK T; Jan 22, 2013 at 10:02 PM.

Jan 23, 2013 | 01:56 AM

JCtx

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I'm replacing all pads on my '12 GS right now. Other than lifting method, you just need a 1/2" torque wrench to reinstall wheels to 100 ft/lbs, a 3/8" torque wrench to reinstall pins to 29 ft/lbs, and a GOOD T45 socket. I messed the one I had, and bought a Craftsman. Since my car only has 3K miles, I'm reusing the stock pins, but removed them all to clean the calipers perfectly. Am also cleaning the pins to like-new condition. Wheels and calipers were a royal mess, plus also detailing all that area. The actual pad swap job takes maybe 1/2 hour total. If you're putting stock pads again, might as well skip the caliper cleaning, but clean the pins. Or replace them. By the way, you only need to remove the mid pins to remove the pads, meaning all outer pins can stay in place. And if you're already there, might as well bleed your brakes; takes only a few minutes more with the wheels removed. I'm doing that as well. Good luck.

Jan 23, 2013 | 02:19 AM

X25

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Joined: Jan 2008

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From: Sammamish, WA

Quote:

Originally Posted by ELP_JC

I'm replacing all pads on my '12 GS right now. Other than lifting method, you just need a 1/2" torque wrench to reinstall wheels to 100 ft/lbs, a 3/8" torque wrench to reinstall pins to 29 ft/lbs, and a GOOD T45 socket. I messed the one I had, and bought a Craftsman. Since my car only has 3K miles, I'm reusing the stock pins, but removed them all to clean the calipers perfectly. Am also cleaning the pins to like-new condition. Wheels and calipers were a royal mess, plus also detailing all that area. The actual pad swap job takes maybe 1/2 hour total. If you're putting stock pads again, might as well skip the caliper cleaning, but clean the pins. Or replace them. By the way, you only need to remove the mid pins to remove the pads, meaning all outer pins can stay in place. And if you're already there, might as well bleed your brakes; takes only a few minutes more with the wheels removed. I'm doing that as well. Good luck.

You only need it if you change the pads by removing the pin bolts. Personally, I'd never touch those bolts since I have seen so many people braking them, and I stripped one myself on my first Z06. The caliper bolt is much easier to work with, and lets you change the rotors, too.

Jan 23, 2013 | 01:34 PM

Bill Dearborn

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From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ozer

The bolts can become frozen in the caliper. However, you have nothing to lose trying to get them out other than a broken Torx 45 bit. I broke mine off a couple of years ago and the piece is still inside the bolt head. If the bolts come out easily you can clean them and reuse them. If you purchased a GM pad replacement kit it comes with all new bolts (why the kit is so expensive). If the bolts don't come loose then push the pads back in using a clamp or tool made to push in opposing caliper pistons and then remove the caliper. Here is the tool I use to push back the pistons:

It is available on eBay for about $36. Other people use the plastic wood clamps you can purchase at Building Supply Centers and Home Centers.

Bill

Jan 23, 2013 | 05:02 PM

JCtx

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ozer

You're probably right if the car has some miles, and if it has been tracked. Higher temperatures might 'fuse' the pins. Also noticed some were way overtorqued from the factory, while most weren't. Those with newer cars should loosen the pins and retorque them correctly before any track events to avoid future removal issues. It's always nice to have that option. Oh, and it's imperative to get the right socket man; I also messed up one pin with the wrong socket; didn't notice it was all twisted when it finally damaged that pin before jumping out of it. Finally, you can push the pistons back with your fingers by pushing behind the tabs against the pistons. Good luck.

Last edited by JCtx; Jan 23, 2013 at 05:07 PM.