So after reading several posts about clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder issues, is it always an issue? Or, maybehow the car has been driven? Is this a maintenance issue, or at least something that needs to be regularly bled/flushed?
Also read a post that said they removed "inspection ports/plates to let air to and out of the clutch area?
So if it is a regular maintenance issue, like changing the oil, is there a recommended interval? By mileage, by color?
I use to help my Dad bleed the brakes on his race cars. I'm hoping a similar process. 1,2,3, hold-release bleaderl, let old fluid out, hold tighten bleeder...again???
I really want a mn6, just want to know the possibilities up front.
Thanks all

 

My C6 exhibited some clutch pedal malfunction early on, so I installed a remote bleeder and replaced the hydraulic fluid (which looked like black oatmeal) with Motul 600. I bleed it every six months or so. Now the car has over 110K miles on the original hydraulics without any further problems.

Many drag racers change theirs every trip to the strip. Some other owners never change theirs. YMMV.

The culprit is the concentric slave cylinder, which is a compact and elegant design, but unfortunately it lives inside the brutal environment of the bell housing.

If you want to bleed it properly, like with your dad's race car brakes, you need to install a remote bleeder. The bleed port is practically impossible to access. Otherwise it's the "Ranger method." A remote bleeder costs around $100. Afterwards bleeding the clutch is easy.

 

You left out the part that you had to at least drop the drivetrain some, right? THAT is the damn problem, especially on a new car. I also knew about this before buying my '12 GS, but tried to bleed it properly when new anyway, and there's no way in hell without at least destroying the insulation around the valve. I couldn't even squeeze my index finger between the nipple and tunnel. Ripping the insulation might allow me to maybe insert my finger in-between, but no way to bleed it, and even less install anything like a remote bleeder, which should be very well tightened for obvious reasons. Some folks suggest removing the intake and access it from there, but at least in my car, there's just no space. Drivetrain would have to be dropped a little, with all the mess that entails.

Bottom line for us new car buyers is doing the 'ranger' method, which is sucking the clutch reservoir dry every time it starts to get dirty. Mine was already brown with only 9 miles on the clock, probably from all the assembly crap in the lines and parts. Have been doing it maybe 15 times in 3K miles, and it still gets a bit dirty and greasy, so will continue until that stops. I know nothing can substitute a proper bleeding, but doing it this way, should avoid me any clutch issues for the life of my car... if the ton of posts I've read on this forum are any indication. Hope I'm lucky. If not, and drivetrain has to come down for any reason, you know the answer then (remote bleeder). I would NOT stop buying a manual because of that, especially if the car will be new. Way more fun than an auto, even if slower shifting. Good luck.

 

At the time I installed my remote bleeder, everybody including the bleeder manufacturer said you had to drop the drivetrain. But I managed to do it without even removing the exhaust.

Access, such as it is, is from the _bottom_, and it helps to have long arms and fingers. It's possible something is different on newer cars, but I'm skeptical.

If you're only short a half-inch, just drop the front cradle a bit.

 

A slave cylinder is not like a brake system. The volume of fluid that returns every time you release the clutch is large, so it's nearly as effective to simply change out the accessible fluid. Really not worth it if you are not already removing the TT to do a remote bleeder. If you are though then might as well install one.

 

Proper bleeding is much faster and more effective than repeated dilution. The system is completely flushed in 2-3 pedal strokes. I installed the bleeder in an evening without removing anything. Definitely worth it.

 

I honestly wouldn't feel comfortable installing a remote bleeder without dropping the drivetrain. There's no way in hell I could apply the right torque on a new line, or even make sure it didn't go in crooked. Or that there're no leaks. But I'd settle for just bleeding the damn thing every time I change the tranny/diff fluids every 2 to 3 years. I tried doing this when changing the X-pipe, but determined no way I could install a drain line in the nipple. In fact, it was so damn tight against the insulation I couldn't even pop the rubber plug from the nipple. And I have long and skinny arms and hands. My bleed valve is between the 11 and 12 o'clock positions when under the car with feet facing to the front of the car; I doubt anything has changed. Also couldn't even manage to lodge a small open-end wrench I use to bleed the brakes (pretty thin, to allow a hose/adapter to pop into the valve), due to lack of space to maneuver.

Please let us know how you did it, and what wrench you used. And especially how the heck you were able to push a bleed line into the nipple. Even doing that to my wide open caliper valves was hard (these nipples are bigger than most). I was thinking a ratcheting type wrench, because even the multi-teeth closed-end wrench I have, it requires more degrees than we have there from one tooth to the next. Or I'd have to be super lucky so they're aligned perfectly... but I'm usually not that lucky . Thanks man.

 

See this thread from '07.

The bleed line doesn't attach to the nipple. The nipple comes out and stays out. The fitting on the end of the remote bleeder threads directly into the slave cylinder.

 

I know that. And that's why I wouldn't even bother attempting to do this. Even if I managed to remove the bleed nipple somehow, the risk of not being able to screw the remote bleeder line is VERY high... which would render the car useless, and possibly needing to bring the driveline down to fix the issue. Therefore, I'd only attempt to bleed the clutch normally, especially since I've been doing the 'ranger' method since new. All it takes is to open the bleed valve 1/3 of a turn or so. And I said, I don't think I could even do that without messing the insulation above it at the very least. I'm inclined to start a poll about people doing just the 'ranger' method (not real bleeding) and see how many miles they have with no clutch issues. Even if I keep my GS for 10 years, I'd put less than 50K miles in that time. I might not have to bother attempting a real bleed job, as much as I want to . And no, I won't race/track the car. Just spirited mountain runs .