Help Diagnosing Clutch Issues
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: London Ohio
Help Diagnosing Clutch Issues
Problem: clutch pedal sticks often at transition point from free play to engagement. I know there should be some free play in the pedal as to not "ride" the throwout bearing. Mine currently has ~2 inches of free play. 99% of the time when i release the pedal it sticks at point where the free play stops. I can easily pop it up with my foot. The clutch also slips at high rpm-high load. 1st and 2nd gear full throttle pulls like a freight train but 3rd slips above 4k rpms give or take a few. Tried the high gear low rpm test to see if clutch slips. It does not. I have performed the Ranger method a few times with no improvement. Almost all clutch related searches i find involve pedals sticking to the floor and whatnot. Car is an 08 with approximately 30k miles. Never tracked (in my posession, bought used at 19k miles clutch was fine). Some spirited driving but far from abuse.
Just wondered if anyone has experienced those exact problems and if any solutions available before i take it to the dealership.
Just wondered if anyone has experienced those exact problems and if any solutions available before i take it to the dealership.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 13,592
Likes: 187
From: Hudson WI
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Chances are the fluid is really dirty. You can suck out the dirty fluid, pump the pedal and repeat about 36 times and that may fix it. I went a different route and got a Tick master with a bleeder line.
No problem since I did that.
No problem since I did that.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 175
Likes: 44
From: Ormond Beach, FL
Take a look at this. Try the fluid exchange explained halfway down the page.
http://rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
http://rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 613
Likes: 10
From: Magnolia Texas
Could be either Master Cylinder or Slave if the fluid got contaminated. Like timd38, I got tired of the clutch sticking on hard pulls at track. First change was to replace the MC with OEM and truly flush fluid by using bleeder on Slave. Pain in the butt, but fixed the daily driving headaches. Still would not handle a warm run at track and almost always stuck and caused me to miss 3rd gear. Fixed problem by changing to TICK Master Cylinder. Have never had a problem since and clutch now feels super. None of the goofy spring assist, just sweet feel of the clutch. Much easier to drive. FYI, the Tick MC is more of a pain to install than the instructions would have you believe, but worth it in the end.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 13,592
Likes: 187
From: Hudson WI
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Could be either Master Cylinder or Slave if the fluid got contaminated. Like timd38, I got tired of the clutch sticking on hard pulls at track. First change was to replace the MC with OEM and truly flush fluid by using bleeder on Slave. Pain in the butt, but fixed the daily driving headaches. Still would not handle a warm run at track and almost always stuck and caused me to miss 3rd gear. Fixed problem by changing to TICK Master Cylinder. Have never had a problem since and clutch now feels super. None of the goofy spring assist, just sweet feel of the clutch. Much easier to drive. FYI, the Tick MC is more of a pain to install than the instructions would have you believe, but worth it in the end.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: London Ohio
I figured it was going boil down to the master or slave cylinder. I was hoping something like a flush would alleviate the symptoms but the more i read the grimmer it seems. If replacement of either cylinder is covered under warranty then thats what i am going with as it will cost nothing. If not, Tick it is! Hopefully it is not the slave...just something about the dealership cracking open the drivetrain makes me uneasy.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 613
Likes: 10
From: Magnolia Texas
Any good dealer can replace the slave but get ready for some coin unless you have one of those rare ones that will replace under warranty. They usually hide behind contaminated fluid as the cause. If you are forced to go that deep I would seriuosly think about upgrading your clutch and flywheel to ZR1 setup and also swap MC. Trouble free from that point onward. Also should install remote bleeder line if you go that way. Good luck 
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SUBVETTE
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,841
Likes: 93
From: San Diego CA
Keep doing the Ranger method flush. Doing it twice is unlikely to get rid of all the dirty contaminated fluid. When I first started doing the Ranger flushes it took a half a dozen or more flushes before the fluid would stay clean for any period of time. Now I only get dirty fluid about every five or six months. Give it a try, it's much cheaper than changing out master cylinders or slaves or clutches.