I did a search for this and didn't come up with much so I hope someone out there has some experience or ideas for this problem.

My 05 Corvette with LS2 and 6 speed has developed the harmonic balancer death wobble. I decided to do an install of an ATI balancer for replacement. Everything has gone smoothly until I got to the point of removing the crank bolt. Since it is a 6 speed I thought it would be simple to get the bolt broke loose by just putting it in gear and getting the breaker bar out. There appears to be some play in the drive line and the balancer is rotating several inches before it stops moving, so that didn't work. I ran a hook and chain from the engine cradle to the balancer to try to keep it from moving around while I broke the bolt loose. I ended up bending the hook straight.

I have been working on trying to get this bolt out for about two days without any luck and I am getting frustrated.

 

interesting threads on your very topic...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...ncer-bolt.html

interesting method.. i guess it might work..
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ving-bolt.html

 

fyi... on my edelbrock sc , instructions for my ls3 2011 kit, says to use..
J-42386-A Flywheel Holding Tool
to remove crank bolt. see step 83 and step 84 ( instructions begin at bottom/right page 17)
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../1000/1590.pdf

here is one i found (for sample)..
http://www.etoolcart.com/flywheelhol...j-42386-a.aspx

 

Put the car in gear and have another person inside the car with their foot on the brakes. Rear wheels must be on the ground for this. You may also need another person leaning on the passenger fender in case it wants to lift off the jack stand. Use a big a$$ breaker bar and it will break loose.

The person in the driver seat with their foot on the brakes is the key.

 

I'm guessing you have no air tools.

Set the breaker bar so it is against the rotation of the crank and firmly fixed in position and then bump the starter.

 

I heat the head of the bolt with a propane torch, that will release the loc tite. Get err hot, not warm! Should come out easily with just a breaker bar.

 

This may not help you but if any AT owners read this it will help them.

The bell housing at the back of the engine has a large rubber cover.
Remove the cover and rotate the crank until you feel a hole in the flywheel.
have someone put a prybar in the hole and hold.
This will help the removal and installation of the HB bolt.

 

slide a strong screw driver into the flywheel and turn. you will have about 1 inch of play until you reach the bell housing and it will come off. install works the same way.

good luck and don't forget Loctite and a new bolt.

 

Thanks for the advice guys. I am getting ready to leave from work and go try some of these solutions.

 

just a point to make...

it isnt safe to have the rear tires on the ground unless all four are off when doing that procedure. even if someone isnt hurt with the car moving, having the front fall off the jacks will have them end UP in something they shouldnt be in.
as noted in the edelbrock installation, alternate method if not using the flywheel locking tool....

Do not attempt this optional procedure if the rear wheels are on the ground or vehicle damage and/or injury could result.

 

So the general advice is typically to put the car in gear, engage the e-brake and have at it. How can this work with the rear wheels OFF the ground? It can't... The parking brake isnt strong enough for this. With someone on the brakes, the car CANNOT move.

Another option would to put the front back on the ground once the steering rack is moved, but this is a lot of extra work. Safer? Most likely, but I can assure you that the car will not move with someone firmly pressing the brakes. I've done it twice this way with no issues.

Do we feel that holding a breaker bar in place and attempting to turn over the motor with the starter is safer? I don't think so, but it appears to work for atleast one of us. I've seen breaker bars snap loose and nearly hit/seriously injure the user. I think that the method I suggested works well because the evolution is controlled and deliberate. If the OP tries and sees the car begin to lunge forward, simply stop and regroup. Nothing in this method can't be reversed or stopped mid stroke.

The absolute safest is probably heat and an impact wrench. The potential to strip the bolt is greater so care must be taken. Take any of our advice at risk but I don't believe any forum member would intentionally offer advice that would put another member at risk.

Just my humble opinion.

 

I used the belt wrap method. worked like a champ both on and off, just need a new belt afterward

-Carl

 

what he said

 

The flywheel locking tool from Kent Moore kicks a$$. It's only like $100 IIRC and I received it in two days once ordered. You can always resell it for what you pay for it. However I love the little that tool when working by myself.

 

quite a few members here always having trouble doing different jobs on their cars without having the proper tools for the job before they start a job. why beat yourself up by not having proper tool for the job. the Kent Moore locking fixture comes in the kit used by the factory and dealers and eliminates any problem with this. it is available seperately and also from tool suppliers. whenever I need a tool I dont have I buy it and you will have it for life. do a little research and get the tools you need before you start a job.work safe before it comes back to bite you in the ***.

 

Just wanted to follow up on what ended up being the solution to my crank bolt problem. After reading the suggestions I got on the forum, I did a little more research. A closer look at the bolt (at least the one on my car) and I could see some red loctite that had oozed out from around the bolt washer. The loctite website indicates that heat must be applied to break the bond on red loctite. I went down to Walmart and purchased a propane torch, heated the bolt up for about 4 or 5 minutes, put my 24 in. breaker bar on it and finally success! I was actually suprised at how easy it broke loose. I had the trans in 5th gear, emergency brake engaged, and my son sitting in the car with his foot on the brake.

Thanks for everyones help.

 

awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ya have a great future tech working with you

 

ChevyDave:

Yep, my son is finally starting to take some interest in cars. He and I will soon start work on the restoration of a 1967 Austin Healey 3000 Mark III. It will be his car when we get it done. He is 13 now so hopefully we will have it done by the time he hits 16.

 

Here's a shop-made version of the flywheel locking tool which only costs $40 and doesn't cost a fortune to ship to Canada. The shipping cost alone for the Kent-Moore tool was around $40 !! This tool worked like a charm.

http://carshop.carshopinc.com/produc...137756/CSP2344

The most difficult part of installing the lock is getting access to the catalytic converter oxygen sensor connector. The sensor wires are short so you need to disconnect this to allow you to drop the cat which then lets you remove the starter. The connector is up on the firewall and you almost need little children's hands to unclip the blue locking tab. I was able to squeeze the clip with a long flathead and push it out with my other hand. More frustrating than getting the crank bolt out! (I'm sure GM makes a tool for that too !!!)