Need help degreeing my cam, please.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: SacCityCorvette.com in Sacramento Ca Join us on Facebook!
St. Jude Donor '12,'13,'15,'16,'17
Need help degreeing my cam, please.
Hi Everyone,
I am a novice when it comes to degreeing a cam, so I really need some help from the experts. Don’t want to mess this up.
Little about my setup. 02 z06, Engine is a ls2 440ci, 1-7/8 Long tubes, Ls7 ported heads and manifold, CAI
and cam that is on the Cam Card pictured below.
I have read that advancing the cam gives low and mid range power and retarding the cam moves the power more to the top end. If anything I prefer to retard (move power to the top end)the cam since this engine has a lot of low end already.
First I installed the timing gear set dot to dot or straight up I think its called. Checking with the degree wheel and dial indicator I got the following.
Dot to Dot
115 center line and valve timing open @ .050 was 2.5 degrees.
Then I set the cam gear(see picture) to R2 and got
118 center line and valve timing open @ .050 was 0 degrees.
I also check the R2 setup @ .006 intake opening and the degree wheel was at a hair over 25 degrees.
Didn’t check the dot to dot setup at .006. Should I?
What do you think is the better set up or am I doing something wrong.
I am posting this in the c5 section also.
Thank you for your help!
Christian
I am a novice when it comes to degreeing a cam, so I really need some help from the experts. Don’t want to mess this up.
Little about my setup. 02 z06, Engine is a ls2 440ci, 1-7/8 Long tubes, Ls7 ported heads and manifold, CAI
and cam that is on the Cam Card pictured below.
I have read that advancing the cam gives low and mid range power and retarding the cam moves the power more to the top end. If anything I prefer to retard (move power to the top end)the cam since this engine has a lot of low end already.
First I installed the timing gear set dot to dot or straight up I think its called. Checking with the degree wheel and dial indicator I got the following.
Dot to Dot
115 center line and valve timing open @ .050 was 2.5 degrees.
Then I set the cam gear(see picture) to R2 and got
118 center line and valve timing open @ .050 was 0 degrees.
I also check the R2 setup @ .006 intake opening and the degree wheel was at a hair over 25 degrees.
Didn’t check the dot to dot setup at .006. Should I?
What do you think is the better set up or am I doing something wrong.
I am posting this in the c5 section also.
Thank you for your help!
Christian
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: DALLAS TX
Hi Everyone,
I am a novice when it comes to degreeing a cam, so I really need some help from the experts. Don’t want to mess this up.
Little about my setup. 02 z06, Engine is a ls2 440ci, 1-7/8 Long tubes, Ls7 ported heads and manifold, CAI
and cam that is on the Cam Card pictured below.
I have read that advancing the cam gives low and mid range power and retarding the cam moves the power more to the top end. If anything I prefer to retard (move power to the top end)the cam since this engine has a lot of low end already.
First I installed the timing gear set dot to dot or straight up I think its called. Checking with the degree wheel and dial indicator I got the following.
Dot to Dot
115 center line and valve timing open @ .050 was 2.5 degrees.
Then I set the cam gear(see picture) to R2 and got
118 center line and valve timing open @ .050 was 0 degrees.
I also check the R2 setup @ .006 intake opening and the degree wheel was at a hair over 25 degrees.
Didn’t check the dot to dot setup at .006. Should I?
What do you think is the better set up or am I doing something wrong.
I am posting this in the c5 section also.
Thank you for your help!
Christian
I am a novice when it comes to degreeing a cam, so I really need some help from the experts. Don’t want to mess this up.
Little about my setup. 02 z06, Engine is a ls2 440ci, 1-7/8 Long tubes, Ls7 ported heads and manifold, CAI
and cam that is on the Cam Card pictured below.
I have read that advancing the cam gives low and mid range power and retarding the cam moves the power more to the top end. If anything I prefer to retard (move power to the top end)the cam since this engine has a lot of low end already.
First I installed the timing gear set dot to dot or straight up I think its called. Checking with the degree wheel and dial indicator I got the following.
Dot to Dot
115 center line and valve timing open @ .050 was 2.5 degrees.
Then I set the cam gear(see picture) to R2 and got
118 center line and valve timing open @ .050 was 0 degrees.
I also check the R2 setup @ .006 intake opening and the degree wheel was at a hair over 25 degrees.
Didn’t check the dot to dot setup at .006. Should I?
What do you think is the better set up or am I doing something wrong.
I am posting this in the c5 section also.
Thank you for your help!
Christian
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,987
Likes: 16
From: Phoenix
Well the cam card is telling you to install it straight up at 114 ICL. The only real way to see a difference is to install it straight up, dyno it, then change the ICL, re-dyno, and keep experimenting until you like what happens. Your cam is a 235/247 114lsa, 114 ICL when installed straight up.
You can play around with the Wallace Racing calculator to see what advancing and retarding the cam does to the valve events. There is also desktop dyno software to let you run simulations. Advancing the cam(smaller ICL number) will open the intake valve sooner and close the exhaust valve sooner. Retarding the cam opens the intake later and shuts the exhaust later. Messing with valve events will also change the dynamic compression.
http://www.wallaceracing.com/cam-deg-calc.php
You can play around with the Wallace Racing calculator to see what advancing and retarding the cam does to the valve events. There is also desktop dyno software to let you run simulations. Advancing the cam(smaller ICL number) will open the intake valve sooner and close the exhaust valve sooner. Retarding the cam opens the intake later and shuts the exhaust later. Messing with valve events will also change the dynamic compression.
http://www.wallaceracing.com/cam-deg-calc.php
Thread Starter
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,469
Likes: 136
From: SacCityCorvette.com in Sacramento Ca Join us on Facebook!
St. Jude Donor '12,'13,'15,'16,'17
Thanks for the replies guys!
So jon6.0 from the specs that I posted would you recommend dot to dot or something else?
Thanks
Christian
So jon6.0 from the specs that I posted would you recommend dot to dot or something else?
Thanks
Christian
Racer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
From: Palmetto FL
St. Jude Donor '13
All are assuming the cam came ground properly in the jig for dot-dot to be accurate. From Comp they usually are pretty good, but degreeing will verify if the cam is ground corretly. We see far to often dot-to-dot being off several degrees from the card.
We never trust ....always use a degree wheel and dial indicator to verify.
We never trust ....always use a degree wheel and dial indicator to verify.
Thread Starter
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,469
Likes: 136
From: SacCityCorvette.com in Sacramento Ca Join us on Facebook!
St. Jude Donor '12,'13,'15,'16,'17
All are assuming the cam came ground properly in the jig for dot-dot to be accurate. From Comp they usually are pretty good, but degreeing will verify if the cam is ground corretly. We see far to often dot-to-dot being off several degrees from the card.
We never trust ....always use a degree wheel and dial indicator to verify.
We never trust ....always use a degree wheel and dial indicator to verify.
In my first post I wrote the specs I came up with using a degree wheel and dial indicator. Does that help you see where the cam specs are or am I missing something?
