Those with Eagle Eye tails, please jump in.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,694
Likes: 106
Those with Eagle Eye tails, please jump in.
Read a ton of threads, and my reliability question was answered, so will order them for $233 shipped shortly. However, I assume most of you wanted to round out the LED lighting with front turn-signal/DRLs, right? 
So what are the options, WITHOUT having to pierce stock wiring with resistors? Can a pair of CANbus LED bulbs work without hyperflashing? As a comment, I just installed LED boards (Weiser) at the rear of my BMW K1300S bike (resistors built-in), and regular CANbus LED bulbs in the front, and they work perfectly (no hyperflashing). Meaning the rear board resistors provide enough resistance for the entire circuit. Is that the case with the Eagle Eyes? Has anybody tried that? Hope so.
Finally, I found a solution, but I don't like it. And don't like the price either. It's a new bulb from V-leds, but leaves the stock socket dangling, plus the inline resistor as well. AND it might not fit in that limited space. Had a hard time removing the stock socket, and that thing looks a lot deeper.
Anyway, unless somebody has a new alternative, it's either using one of those 26-LED 3157 CANbus bulbs from superbrightLEDs ($19.99 each) or just stay stock. I bought a pair of 'chrome' incandescent amber bulbs, and they failed within 100 miles. Thanks gang.
So what are the options, WITHOUT having to pierce stock wiring with resistors? Can a pair of CANbus LED bulbs work without hyperflashing? As a comment, I just installed LED boards (Weiser) at the rear of my BMW K1300S bike (resistors built-in), and regular CANbus LED bulbs in the front, and they work perfectly (no hyperflashing). Meaning the rear board resistors provide enough resistance for the entire circuit. Is that the case with the Eagle Eyes? Has anybody tried that? Hope so
. Finally, I found a solution, but I don't like it. And don't like the price either. It's a new bulb from V-leds, but leaves the stock socket dangling, plus the inline resistor as well. AND it might not fit in that limited space. Had a hard time removing the stock socket, and that thing looks a lot deeper.
Anyway, unless somebody has a new alternative, it's either using one of those 26-LED 3157 CANbus bulbs from superbrightLEDs ($19.99 each) or just stay stock. I bought a pair of 'chrome' incandescent amber bulbs, and they failed within 100 miles. Thanks gang.
Last edited by JCtx; Mar 6, 2013 at 11:51 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,694
Likes: 106
Can't find a video clip with how quick the hyperflash is on the Vette. Guess will have to get in there and disconnect one of my bulbs to see for myself. Prefer them working like they should, since hyperflashing is just to let you know something is wrong with a bulb. Doens't look 'kewl' IMO . Thanks anyway.
. Thanks anyway.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 232
From: Licking MO
Read a ton of threads, and my reliability question was answered, so will order them for $233 shipped shortly. However, I assume most of you wanted to round out the LED lighting with front turn-signal/DRLs, right?
So what are the options, WITHOUT having to pierce stock wiring with resistors? Can a pair of CANbus LED bulbs work without hyperflashing? As a comment, I just installed LED boards (Weiser) at the rear of my BMW K1300S bike (resistors built-in), and regular CANbus LED bulbs in the front, and they work perfectly (no hyperflashing). Meaning the rear board resistors provide enough resistance for the entire circuit. Is that the case with the Eagle Eyes? Has anybody tried that? Hope so.
Finally, I found a solution, but I don't like it. And don't like the price either. It's a new bulb from V-leds, but leaves the stock socket dangling, plus the inline resistor as well. AND it might not fit in that limited space. Had a hard time removing the stock socket, and that thing looks a lot deeper.
Anyway, unless somebody has a new alternative, it's either using one of those 26-LED 3157 CANbus bulbs from superbrightLEDs ($19.99 each) or just stay stock. I bought a pair of 'chrome' incandescent amber bulbs, and they failed within 100 miles. Thanks gang.
So what are the options, WITHOUT having to pierce stock wiring with resistors? Can a pair of CANbus LED bulbs work without hyperflashing? As a comment, I just installed LED boards (Weiser) at the rear of my BMW K1300S bike (resistors built-in), and regular CANbus LED bulbs in the front, and they work perfectly (no hyperflashing). Meaning the rear board resistors provide enough resistance for the entire circuit. Is that the case with the Eagle Eyes? Has anybody tried that? Hope so
. Finally, I found a solution, but I don't like it. And don't like the price either. It's a new bulb from V-leds, but leaves the stock socket dangling, plus the inline resistor as well. AND it might not fit in that limited space. Had a hard time removing the stock socket, and that thing looks a lot deeper.
Anyway, unless somebody has a new alternative, it's either using one of those 26-LED 3157 CANbus bulbs from superbrightLEDs ($19.99 each) or just stay stock. I bought a pair of 'chrome' incandescent amber bulbs, and they failed within 100 miles. Thanks gang.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Every 2027 Corvette Engine Explained
Joe Kucinski
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Verdad Gallardo
10 Ugly Corvettes That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,694
Likes: 106
. Depends how quick it is. Too quick looks like crap IMO, plus it makes it obvious something's wrong with you car 
. If it's just quick, I could warm up to it too. Like somebody said, we don't want resistors if DRLs are going to be on all the time, due to the insane amount of heat that would generate. I don't generally leave DRLs on, but like to have the option when I deem it necessary. As far as the switchbacks, I'd only get those if they were white all the time (headlights on or off), except with turn signals. DRLs look like crap in orange IMO, and the switchback orange is even uglier, for some reason
. Much rather just have an amber LED bulb.I might try CANbus LEDs if nobody has done it. Will wait a few days for answers, before pulling the trigger. But regular LEDs do trigger hyperflashing; I know that due to a few forum members mentioning that, meaning the EE tails don't have excess resistance. Or not that much. Hopefully the 2 little resistors on each CANbus LED bulb is enough to prevent it. Only one way to find out. Vendors advice against it, so might be screwed if I want to return them. Thank you for all your comments folks
.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,029
Likes: 357
Each EE tail light has a seperate resistor that uses double face tape to attach the the back side of the trunk tub (forward of the tail light). The resistor housings are about 1.5 inch square and .75 inch deep, IIRC. With just the EE tail lights there is no hyperflash.