My understanding is that if you start to spin via overpowering the rear tires, traction control will activate. If the car is going all sorts of out of control, this induces a different type of spin scenario (that could very well involve not just rear tires, but the car itself). If the computer senses that the car is out of control, it can systematically and individually apply varying amounts of brake at all four corners with "active handling" in an effort to correct the vehicle. If AH can still reduce rear tires from spinning off the line with TC off, I'm just thinking that there really is no point to having TC as long as a car has AH as well.

 

True doesn't pay to have TC at all. But my thoughts are I want the car to do what I want it to do with no computer telling it to do any thing else. Sure in some rare occasion it may help the car from doing something unpredictable but heck 99% of the cars out there don't have AH and get along fine.
I guess I'm old school and would rather drive by the seat of my pants or by feel of the car.
There is no right or wrong to these questions but rather a preference.
Just saying try it and see what if any difference there is!
Not here to get anyone upset and sorry if I did!

 

only if it senses a change in yaw.... I can turn off TC in my car and smoke them for 1/8 mile if I want.......As long as the car isn't getting out of shape.... So again I ask, is it worth the chance if you're not going to run a best anyway??? If you like the feeling of drifting sideways then d ! heck man, it's your car. I'm just saying that if you're drifting sideways that it wont be a record pass.

 

[QUOTE=stanger383;1583468108]only if it senses a change in yaw.... I can turn off TC in my car and smoke them for 1/8 mile if I want.......

So you are telling me that as long as the car is going straight there is no braking to any tires if there is any tire spin.
Sorry but I under stood that if there is any spin at all detected it would apply braking to those tires even with the AH on.
If that is not the case then I agree to leave the AH on!
I was just suggesting it for a test to see if any difference. Some people were not a where you could shut it off completely.

 

[QUOTE=cruiser1;1583468788]Turn it all off only if you have Drag Radials that provide enought grip. This will vastly improve your times. Did for me!

 

[QUOTE=cruiser1;1583468788]As long as the car is going straight(not yawing out of shape) it will not try to apply brakes with the TC only off. Thats why I was shocked you would want to turn it off. A lot of others in the past have stated the exact same thing. If I am on the street(on a closed course) if I floor it and only have TC off as long as its not getting out of shape it will fry the tires as long as you care to hold it on the floor. On occasions where it did yaw out you could feel it apply brakes to the wheels(front and rear noticeably), and it is very apparent that it is doing it's job.
TC helps(but doesnt eliminate completely) rear wheel spin.
AH helps to keep your car going straight no matter what the reason is... even if your off the gas.
Hope this helps

 

Yes it does. Thanks.

I'll just stick to my 72 Nova I street drive and drag race. It runs 5.73 @ 122.45mph in the 1/8 which is enough fun for me on the street and the track.
I bought the vett for my wife but I do most of the driving when we have it out. It will probably never see the track any ways.

 

So if I go to competition driving mode ill be faster?

 

NOPE, buy drag radials and turn everything off and you will go faster.


Oh, remember NOS is no bottle, no throttle. Dont rely on NOS to go fast. Its only temporary, until your bottle is empty.

 

..........

 

It's a power adder, you just have to refill it, and it's not always active. Other than that, it serves the same purpose as any other power adder: to add power and potentially go faster.

OP, I do hope you bought all the safety devices for the nitrous, and not just a wot switch and a bottle.

 

For example?

 

1. Bottle Heater: Bottle pressure is very important to a proper operating nitrous system. We suggest tuning your Nitrous Outlet system with a bottle pressure of 950 to 1050 PSI. A bottle heater will be needed to keep your system at the needed pressure so that the nitrous flows correctly. As it cools off outside creating a chill on the bottle or you start to use your system your bottle pressure will drop causing your engine to bog and lose horsepower.

2. Purge: The purge system is needed for more than producing a cool show for your buddies. A purge kit is needed to evacuate the air from the main feed line. This will eliminate the system from bogging the engine due to the fuel hitting before the nitrous, causing the engine to go rich upon the initial hit. By purging the air from the main feed line you will improve 60-foot times and have a harder hitting nitrous system. The purge kit can also be used to purge down excessive bottle pressure.

3. Nitrous Pressure Gauge: since knowing your bottle pressure is very important you will need a nitrous pressure gauge in order to watch bottle pressure. Nitrous Outlet offers a nitrous pressure gauge that mounts to the bottle as well as in the ****pit of the vehicle.

4. Fuel Pressure Gauge: being aware of the fuel pressure is the best way to know the limits of the fuel system. By monitoring the fuel pressure you will know if the fuel system is being extended. Nitrous Outlet offers mechanical gauges to mount in the engine compartment as well as electrical gauges to go in the ****pit of your vehicle.

5. Fuel Pressure Safety Switch: The fuel pressure safety switch is a safety device that is designed to shut off the nitrous system in the event of fuel pump failure. This switch is pressure controlled and will wire in conjunction to the systems relay. In the event the fuel pump fails it will break the ground source to the system relay.

6. TPS Activation Switch: Most late model fuel injected applications are drive by wire (NO THROTTLE CABLE). These applications require a TPS activation switch in order to activate your nitrous system at wide-open throttle. The activation switch works by reading the throttle position sensors voltage.

7. Window Safety Switch: The window safety switch is designed to keep you from spraying under to low of a rpm or over revving your engine. The window switch gives you two settings, an activation rpm and a deactivation rpm. You will set the activation point to at least 3000 RPM. When the system is activated, the TPS or wide-open throttle switch sees wide-open throttle it will complete the positive circuit to the systems relay. The window switch will read the engine RPM. When it rises to the set RPM on the window switch, the switch will supply ground to the systems relay, completing the circuit and firing the solenoids. In the incident the driver misses a gear, transmission slips, rear end or driveshaft breaks causing the engine to over rev the window switch will take away the ground to the solenoids at the set RPM on the switch shutting off the nitrous system. We suggest setting the deactivation RPM for the window switch at the shift point or 200 to 300 RPM before rev limiter.

8. NHRA Valve & Blow Down Tube: In order to meet NHRA requirements you must use a blow down tube if the bottle is located in the vehicle. In order to adapt the blow down tube to the bottle you will need a NHRA approved blow off valve. This valve is threaded on both ends creating an external thread for the blow down tube to screw on. The blow down tube is designed to evacuate the nitrous from the bottle outside the vehicle in the case that the safety disc bursts.

9. Nitrous Filter: The nitrous filter is used to filter any trash or contaminants from entering your nitrous solenoid.

10. Remote Bottle Opener: With the remote bottle opener you can open and close the bottle with out ever leaving the comforts of the driver seat.

 

I guess those boys over at cold fusion nitrous dont have their **** together because I asked them if I needed anything else besides there corvette wet kit and they said no. ...

I do have a Nitrous pressure gauge though

I asked about the heater and window switch. The person told me I wouldn't need a heater till winter and the window switch was for manual transmissions.

 

One way to wire:

 

There is a lot of terrible information in here.

AH being on will not slow down your ET/MPH in the 1/4 mile
Drag radials will not make you faster with AH off than with just TC off
Disabling AH and TC by holding the button down for 5 seconds will not make you faster

As far as nitrous....

You don't need a lot of the stuff listed there. Some of it helps and some of it is for convenience and some is just not necessary. Other than the kit I'd get a Fuel Pressure Safety Switch if it didn't come with it. Your kit should come with a WOT switch and nitrous pressure gauge. A heater is nice for consistency and keeping pressure up when nitrous bottle is not full. A well tuned auto can spray through the gears and doesn't really need a window switch unless you're launching at very low RPMs, which would be odd. TPS activation is nice, but not necessary. Purge isn't necessary at all unless you're getting really serious and need to make sure the nitrous is perfectly ready every time for absolute consistency. Remote bottle opener is a nice luxury if you want it. Most tracks won't require a blowdown tube.

The Fuel Pressure Gauge is a good idea.

 

I forgot. Another thing you will need is a wideband to show you the air:fuel mixture.
This is essential, because it will tell you if something is wrong and the mixture is going lean.

 

Everyone, I would listen to this man! He knows exactly what he is talking about.


Since I got my first vette in 2010 I have tried all four ways, including everything off and that can be very dangerous, period. I have gotten my best 60 ft. & 1/4 mile times with "one push" of the button (TC OFF), Hell, when the car was completely stock the difference was only one hundred of a second in the 60 ft. with everything "turned on". Remember, if you don't spin than the traction control (TC) will not kick in.

PS: Also see post #36, he is right on the money too!!!

 

A window switch is a very good thing to have. It will prevent the engine from over revving if something happens. Doesn't matter if its an auto, **** can still happen.
A bottle heater is used to give consistent pressure, which is also critical. It's be like having a turbo that gave you different boost every time. Makes it more difficult to tune.
Purge is there to get the lines clear. Again, important for consistent nitrous delivery. You don't want air in there.
Bottle opener is a luxury, but if something happens(ie a line breaks or a seal fails), it's nice to know you can close the bottle with a switch from your seat.

Nitrous is like any power adder: you can technically do it on the cheap with a wot switch and spray through the MAF to get power, but it's a ****** way of doing it. A cobbled together kit is going to work like one.
If you look at any of the top guys that do it, they have the safety equipment. Why? Because it prevents things like a blown engine. If you want a window in your block, do it cheaply and shittily. It will cost you in the engine.


OP, how to plan on tuning for the nitrous?

 

Pulling timing with my intune.