NPP issues
At first I thought it may be the Sunsetorange Exhaust Commander that I have used reliably for the last three years so I removed it and went for a drive. I ran the car though a couple of gears and everything worked as the General designed it. The exhaust valves opened at 3500 rpm's and closed when I let off of it. A few minutes later on the way home I'm thinking I'll have to contact SSO then again out of nowhere the exhaust valves open up again while just cruising along at 40 mph. The valves remain open until you shut off the car and it sits for awhile.
Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Start looking at the easiest spots, the hoses to the actuators and if that doesn't do it you'll have to follow the vacuum lines back to the source.

The easiest to fix problem would be if a vacuum tube simply came loose from one of the valve actuating solenoids - just take a look under the rear of the car to see if the tubing is loose or split back there.
I've had 2 vacuum leaks and they were both not that easy to find.
One was a split in the tubing under the hood - it was hidden under that piece of corrugated plastic cover that is sitting on my hand. The picture below shows the area at the back of the driver's side of the engine where the vacuum line comes off the manifold and attaches to the line that goes back to the exhaust valves:
The other leak I had was back near the trans/diff where the line goes from the left side of the car over to the right side and then ultimately back to the reservoir and the valves. The lines coming from the front to the rear are a combination of metal lines and hard plastic tubing. One of the plastic sections melted where it passes over the exhaust. In the picture below I had cut out the damaged section of tubing, and you can see the long split in the tubing caused by the heat of the exhaust:

Good luck finding the problem, but like haljensen, I'm quite sure it's a vacuum leak.
Bob
I used a heavy duty rubber tubing and wrapped Cool Tape (same stuff I wrap around my rubber ball joint covers to protect them from brake heat) around it to help protect it from the heat:


I've done several thousand miles of street driving and a couple track events with no further problems since repairing that split tubing problem.
Bob
Last edited by BEZ06; Apr 8, 2013 at 11:34 AM.
I drove the car for 45 min. never going over 3000 rpm no issues nice and quiet. About a mile or two from home I floored it and the exhaust valves opened as designed I let off the gas but the valves did not close. This leads me to believe it's something else causing the issue. When I returned home with the valves still open I shut the car off and waited a minute then restarted it, valves stayed open. I went into the house and came back 30 minutes later and restarted the car the valves closed as designed.
There has to be a control/relay that the ECM tells the exhaust to open and close.
Is there a schematic showing the NPP system? Any additional help will be appreciated.
Thanks
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1577171390-post14.html
(5) Exhaust Tail Pipe Flow Vacuum Valve Solenoid
is, if I remember correctly, accessed by removing the right taillight. You can see it in there and access it to hopefully determine if there's a loose connector or loose ground.
However, when I had the problem with the plastic tubing above the exhaust, it acted sort of like your problem on your drive - it was initially intermittent.
I think that when I first started driving the tube was firm and didn't leak, but after driving a while and heating up, it would get softer and leak.
So....I still would suspect a vacuum leak. If you do a drive similar to what you did today and the valves remain open at low RPM, put your Mity-Vac back on it and see if you still can pull a steady vacuum. When you do pull a vacuum from that engine compartment connection, it should close the valves - so check that as well.
Good luck!
Bob
I have been busy the last few weeks and finally had time to look into this further. It is not a vacuum leak of any kind I tested the system front to back it held 20" until I released it. I disconnected the (5) Exhaust Tail Pipe Flow Vacuum Valve Solenoid in the schematic and tested the system both ways back to front and from the solenoid to the exhaust valves, no leaks. I tested the vacuum valve solenoid on the bench by applying vacuum to it, again no leaks. I then checked resistance 23 ohms. I put 12v to the terminals while it was holding a vacuum you could hear it click and see it release the vacuum.
I have narrowed it down to the Exhaust Tail pipe Flow Control module.
Where exactly is the Flow Valve Control Module and how do you check it?
My car has headers and it is extremely loud with the valves open you can't drive it around town like this so I left the Flow Control valve Solenoid out for now and added a small piece of vacuum tube so I can drive the car until I figure this out. Now when you shut off the car the valves stay closed so that is another reason I know there are no leaks in the system.
Thanks in advance.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...is-module.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...is-module.html
Stay tuned.

Looks like it's off to the dealer the ECM controls all of it so I'll have that looked into. Not happy.
The exhaust flow control solenoid is N.C. when power 12v is applied to it from the exhaust control module it opens and allows vacuum to close the exhaust valves. Vacuum closes the valves, no power to the solenoid, no vacuum to the valves I guess GM wanted them to fail in the open position.
Will report back soon.














