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Looking at various online GM parts places (GM Parts House and GM Parts Direct) there are two different OEM balancers listed for the LS2. If you search for a 2006 Corvette you come up with a balancer that fits the LS2, LS3, and LS7. If you search for a 2012 you come up with a balancer that fits the LS2, LS3, and LS7. They are different prices so they must be different parts. Does anyone know the difference? Also I think I remember reading last year that there was a 'new' version of the balancer that fixed the problem with the elastomer coming apart? Is that confirmed or is still the same POS as it always has been?
Looking at various online GM parts places (GM Parts House and GM Parts Direct) there are two different OEM balancers listed for the LS2. If you search for a 2006 Corvette you come up with a balancer that fits the LS2, LS3, and LS7. If you search for a 2012 you come up with a balancer that fits the LS2, LS3, and LS7. They are different prices so they must be different parts. Does anyone know the difference? Also I think I remember reading last year that there was a 'new' version of the balancer that fixed the problem with the elastomer coming apart? Is that confirmed or is still the same POS as it always has been?
Thanks,
Steve
if you get p/n 12635652 it is the same junk hb and may only last a couple thousand miles.they have failed in as little as 25 miles and not made it home from the dealership.if you get lucky it may last the life of the car
Irony of ironies, but checking again today at GM Parts Direct and GM Parts House, both sites no longer list a balancer for the 2006 Corvette. Both sites changed the drawings shown for "ENGINE" and now show the balancer as item number 1 on the drawing. But number 1 doesn't show on the list of parts available. And for a 2012 car they show the same new drawing with item number 1 being the balancer but they show it as available, however the description no longer says LS2, LS3, and LS7 but instead says 'Balancer w/o supercharger'.
I know the ATI balancer for the LS2 is the same part number for the LS3. I also noticed there is a Chevrolet Performance balancer PN 12553118 that fits the LS2, but that's about as much of a desription as I can find. Don't know if it's underdrive or not. It's available cheap at around $60, but there is absolutely zero information I can find on the balancer other than it fits an LS2. Anyone have any experience with the Chevy Performance balancer?
Last edited by SteveC68; May 13, 2013 at 03:41 PM.
Irony of ironies, but checking again today at GM Parts Direct and GM Parts House, both sites no longer list a balancer for the 2006 Corvette. Both sites changed the drawings shown for "ENGINE" and now show the balancer as item number 1 on the drawing. But number 1 doesn't show on the list of parts available. And for a 2012 car they show the same new drawing with item number 1 being the balancer but they show it as available, however the description no longer says LS2, LS3, and LS7 but instead says 'Balancer w/o supercharger'.
I know the ATI balancer for the LS2 is the same part number for the LS3. I also noticed there is a Chevrolet Performance balancer PN 12553118 that fits the LS2, but that's about as much of a desription as I can find. Don't know if it's underdrive or not. It's available cheap at around $60, but there is absolutely zero information I can find on the balancer other than it fits an LS2. Anyone have any experience with the Chevy Performance balancer?
that p/n is listed for the F-car and GTO's with LS1 or LS2.It is not underdriven.if it is the same as the original equipment used on 05 Y- car they weren't machined for the dew washer unless GM has revised them.better choice would be p/n 12635652 that is at least machined for dew washer but unfortunatly failure prone.check your local dealer for any available alternative p/n.also check forum vendors partstaxi and gmpartshouse.
The damper is tuned for the higher end of the output of the engine. If you keep your engine in that operating range, the vibration damper will have a reduced life. They must be replaced along with valve springs and clutch plates and pressure plates on a regular basis. Frequent dyno tests reveal uniform combustion pressures. High temperatures also reduce their life also. Have good airflow over the damper because it gets hot absorbing this energy and FFS, learn to change gears properly.
Don't go after market if you have a stock engine.
Check out this paper by BHJ Dynamics particularly if you have a modified engine.
The damper is tuned for the higher end of the output of the engine. If you keep your engine in that operating range, the vibration damper will have a reduced life. They must be replaced along with valve springs and clutch plates and pressure plates on a regular basis. Frequent dyno tests reveal uniform combustion pressures. High temperatures also reduce their life also. Have good airflow over the damper because it gets hot absorbing this energy and FFS, learn to change gears properly.
Don't go after market if you have a stock engine.
Check out this paper by BHJ Dynamics particularly if you have a modified engine.
In my case the engine isn't "stock". It's supercharged. My '97 was supercharged and had no problem with the HB.
I took my '05 to have the serp belt replaced and that's when the HB problem was discovered. It had walked toward the engine and wore a slight grove in the timing chain cover and oil pan, luckly it was discovered at this point or it could have caused damage to the TC cover and OP.
The damper is tuned for the higher end of the output of the engine. If you keep your engine in that operating range, the vibration damper will have a reduced life. They must be replaced along with valve springs and clutch plates and pressure plates on a regular basis. Frequent dyno tests reveal uniform combustion pressures. High temperatures also reduce their life also. Have good airflow over the damper because it gets hot absorbing this energy and FFS, learn to change gears properly.
Don't go after market if you have a stock engine.
Check out this paper by BHJ Dynamics particularly if you have a modified engine.
I'm not sure if you read that or heard it from someone, but it's simply not true. The balancer is NOT a wear part like a brake pad. I have a 2006 Toyota 4-Runner with 171,000 miles on it and it sees frequent trips near redline when passing other cars. The harmonic balancer looks better with 171,000 miles than my 2006 C6 with 21,000 miles. In fact the 4-runner balancer looks as good as it did with 10 miles on it. People have reported their balancers failing with less than 5,000 miles on the car. So you are saying that a balancer should only last 5,000 miles?
The balancer issue with the LS engines (it's been a problem since at least the LS1 maybe even earlier) is just another shining example of why the Vette isn't yet a world class car. If a 4-Runner balancer can last 200,000+ miles then there is absolutely NO reason the vette balancer should last less. I love my vette, but I hate GM for putting junk parts on the car.
Well I have an 07/LS2 with 33k miles on her and just noticed the infamous pulley wobble afew weeks back. I have an extended warranty but decided to just pay out and get a powerbond underdrive pulley installed at a local speed shop in NC. I cost me $200 for the pulley, $40 for new belts and $300 for labor, plus had a new 160 degree thermostat installed at the same time. For $540 all said /done. no more wobble!
Well I have an 07/LS2 with 33k miles on her and just noticed the infamous pulley wobble afew weeks back. I have an extended warranty but decided to just pay out and get a powerbond underdrive pulley installed at a local speed shop in NC. I cost me $200 for the pulley, $40 for new belts and $300 for labor, plus had a new 160 degree thermostat installed at the same time. For $540 all said /done. no more wobble!
That is a good price. So far the cheapest I've been able to find is $660 installed. I still have a couple more shops to check. Because of my OEM restriction I went with the Powerbond OEM balancer. It's only $99 from O'Rielly. Part number PB1117-N. Free shipping to your door, but you do have to pay tax. It was delivered tonight. Looks very good and can't be any worse than the one that came on the car. If I can find a shop that can do it for $300 like the one you found then I'll be happy. Otherwise I'll install it myself.
edit:
Found this vid on youtube. Doesn't look too bad. I've got the shop manual as well.
Glad you found a replacement. good luck finding a shop to install. I somewhat watched the tech remove my stock pulley, didnt look like something I would want to do. basically removed driver front tire, and the steering rack with ps pump moved out of way. however I dont have the puller or installation tools either. So 300$...seemed a good deal.
The damper is tuned for the higher end of the output of the engine. If you keep your engine in that operating range, the vibration damper will have a reduced life. They must be replaced along with valve springs and clutch plates and pressure plates on a regular basis. Frequent dyno tests reveal uniform combustion pressures. High temperatures also reduce their life also. Have good airflow over the damper because it gets hot absorbing this energy and FFS, learn to change gears properly.
Don't go after market if you have a stock engine.
Check out this paper by BHJ Dynamics particularly if you have a modified engine.
when GM goes endurance racing with stock or modified LS crate engines most of these engines come with ATI super dampers for reliability!they dont go to lose.no prizes for having the wrong hb on the car
when GM goes endurance racing with stock or modified LS crate engines most of these engines come with ATI super dampers for reliability!they dont go to lose.no prizes for having the wrong hb on the car
Ok, changed the balancer out yesterday with the help of my father. It took 12 hours including about 3 or 4 trips to the auto parts store and home depot. The video I posted a link to didn't completely help. We ended up also removing the lower shock bolts and the upper control arms. Then removed the cradle nuts completely to lower the cradle about 2 inches. Also if you remove the alternator it makes getting to the steering box hoses MUCH easier. I figured that one out today. Be prepared for the belts being extremely tight as the paint on the new balancer add just enough extra diameter to make the install difficult. Also there is a small electric connector that is clipped to the steering rack that you will have to disconnect before removing the rack. You can see it from underneath the car and it is clipped to one of the two lines that run across the top of the rack. If I were to do it again I would probably not pull the rack but instead take the two bolts out that hold it to the cradle, then move the rack to the passenger side of the car about 2 or so inches which will let it drop down. Then I would unbolt the engine from the cradle and jack the engine back up until I had enough room to get the balancer off. Sliding the rack out the drivers side is just a giant pain because there are 4 or 5 hard brake lines that must be moved out of the way.
Last edited by SteveC68; May 27, 2013 at 08:01 PM.