Oil filter
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Columbus OH
Oil filter
2008 C6 coupe, changing the oil for the first time (only 7,000 miles on car). I don't know who or how they put the oil filter on but it will flat out not come off. It's an AC Delco unit, I managed to get it about a 1/4 - 1/2 turn and now my oil filter socket is literally stripping the filter plastic due to the force it's taking to get this thing off (yes, it's the right sized socket).
I have changed oil countless times in other cars, this is really nuts how tight this thing is on. Any suggestions? It's like a gorilla put this thing on at the factory.
I have changed oil countless times in other cars, this is really nuts how tight this thing is on. Any suggestions? It's like a gorilla put this thing on at the factory.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 20,352
Likes: 568
From: Ventura County, Calif
Quite possible.It used to be a common complaint for '08's for some reason, they just really torqued the filters for some unknown reason. Mine was very tight and I fought with it for a couple minutes until I got the right angle for leverage with my strap type wrench.
This really doesn't help you but you might want to look at it for ideas. As C6LS3 mentioned, Channel Locks may be the only thing for you.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...er-wrench.html
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,106
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I always poke a small hole in the bottom to drain the filter before removal. After a bit, it either totally stops dripping or I screw in a sheet metal screw to plug the hole if I'm in a hurry. Then I drive a fairly long flat blade screwdriver through the side of the filter to the other side and use the handle to start the filter to rotate. It'll be obvious where to pierce it, to get the maximum rotation.
It sounds crude, but it never fails and I don't make a mess with oil spilling.
It sounds crude, but it never fails and I don't make a mess with oil spilling.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 11,139
Likes: 1,910
From: Missouri City, TX
2008 C6 coupe, changing the oil for the first time (only 7,000 miles on car). I don't know who or how they put the oil filter on but it will flat out not come off. It's an AC Delco unit, I managed to get it about a 1/4 - 1/2 turn and now my oil filter socket is literally stripping the filter plastic due to the force it's taking to get this thing off (yes, it's the right sized socket).
I have changed oil countless times in other cars, this is really nuts how tight this thing is on. Any suggestions? It's like a gorilla put this thing on at the factory.
I have changed oil countless times in other cars, this is really nuts how tight this thing is on. Any suggestions? It's like a gorilla put this thing on at the factory.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 234
From: Colorado
I always poke a small hole in the bottom to drain the filter before removal. After a bit, it either totally stops dripping or I screw in a sheet metal screw to plug the hole if I'm in a hurry. Then I drive a fairly long flat blade screwdriver through the side of the filter to the other side and use the handle to start the filter to rotate. It'll be obvious where to pierce it, to get the maximum rotation.
It sounds crude, but it never fails and I don't make a mess with oil spilling.
It sounds crude, but it never fails and I don't make a mess with oil spilling.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 32,074
Likes: 296
From: San Francisco CA
Originally Posted by HOXXOH
I always poke a small hole in the bottom to drain the filter before removal. After a bit, it either totally stops dripping or I screw in a sheet metal screw to plug the hole if I'm in a hurry. Then I drive a fairly long flat blade screwdriver through the side of the filter to the other side and use the handle to start the filter to rotate. It'll be obvious where to pierce it, to get the maximum rotation.
It sounds crude, but it never fails and I don't make a mess with oil spilling.
Good to know this
I always poke a small hole in the bottom to drain the filter before removal. After a bit, it either totally stops dripping or I screw in a sheet metal screw to plug the hole if I'm in a hurry. Then I drive a fairly long flat blade screwdriver through the side of the filter to the other side and use the handle to start the filter to rotate. It'll be obvious where to pierce it, to get the maximum rotation.
It sounds crude, but it never fails and I don't make a mess with oil spilling.
Good to know this
Last edited by LS WON; Jun 6, 2013 at 04:08 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 34
I always poke a small hole in the bottom to drain the filter before removal. After a bit, it either totally stops dripping or I screw in a sheet metal screw to plug the hole if I'm in a hurry. Then I drive a fairly long flat blade screwdriver through the side of the filter to the other side and use the handle to start the filter to rotate. It'll be obvious where to pierce it, to get the maximum rotation.
It sounds crude, but it never fails and I don't make a mess with oil spilling.
It sounds crude, but it never fails and I don't make a mess with oil spilling.
It is actually a very neat procedure to avoid messy oil running down the side of the filter housing.
I use the same process to poke hole to drain, then remove filter - especially with my other cars where its filter is mounted horizontally.
I choose to use either metal or nylon strap wrench on stubborn filter.
No mess.
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Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 32,074
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From: San Francisco CA
True engineering mind HOOXH!
It is actually a very neat procedure to avoid messy oil running down the side of the filter housing.
I use the same process to poke hole to drain, then remove filter - especially with my other cars where its filter is mounted horizontally.
I choose to use either metal or nylon strap wrench on stubborn filter.
No mess.
It is actually a very neat procedure to avoid messy oil running down the side of the filter housing.
I use the same process to poke hole to drain, then remove filter - especially with my other cars where its filter is mounted horizontally.
I choose to use either metal or nylon strap wrench on stubborn filter.
No mess.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 34
^^^Filter tends to get tighten overtime after exposure to heat expansion and contraction. What was once hand tighten to 3/4 is now requiring mechanical tools to assist. If you have DIY over many decades - this is a true phenomenon.
Just as aluminum fastener mates with steel. It will be tighter than its initial torque.
Just as aluminum fastener mates with steel. It will be tighter than its initial torque.
Last edited by victorf; Jun 6, 2013 at 04:22 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 32,074
Likes: 296
From: San Francisco CA
^^^Filter tends to get tighten overtime after exposure to heat expansion and contraction. What was once hand tighten to 3/4 is now requiring mechanical tools to assist. If you have DIY over many decades - this is a true phenomenon.
Just as aluminum fastener mates with steel. It will be become tighter more than its initial torque.
Just as aluminum fastener mates with steel. It will be become tighter more than its initial torque.
Which is why oil and filter changes are easier when car has just been drive. HOT
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 34
^^^Nope, hot or cold, makes no difference to the tightness phenomenon.
Actually, one can ran into more problem during fastener removal while components are hot - especially between dissimilar metal!
Example: removing spark plug from aluminum block. Hint: its not that heat can burn hands.
---
Food for thought:-
-With todays multi viscosity motor oil, oil is actually at its thinnest state when cold.
-With engine sit over night, oil along with undesirable crude is already settled at the bottom of the oil pan.
Given the above two scenarios:-
Before changing oil:
Would it be wise to drive the car up to normal running temperature, while doing so, once settle accumulated crude at the oil pan is recirculated as well as the once thin 5 weight oil is now thicker 30 weight?
Actually, one can ran into more problem during fastener removal while components are hot - especially between dissimilar metal!
Example: removing spark plug from aluminum block. Hint: its not that heat can burn hands.
---
Food for thought:-
-With todays multi viscosity motor oil, oil is actually at its thinnest state when cold.
-With engine sit over night, oil along with undesirable crude is already settled at the bottom of the oil pan.
Given the above two scenarios:-
Before changing oil:
Would it be wise to drive the car up to normal running temperature, while doing so, once settle accumulated crude at the oil pan is recirculated as well as the once thin 5 weight oil is now thicker 30 weight?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Columbus OH
A big set of channel locks and it finally gave up. Took so much torque they actually crushed the filter pretty good. Installed the new one properly along with a little over 6 qts of oil and all is well.
Now somebody tell GM to move Arnold Schwarzenegger off that part of the assembly line
Now somebody tell GM to move Arnold Schwarzenegger off that part of the assembly line
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 34
A big set of channel locks and it finally gave up. Took so much torque they actually crushed the filter pretty good. Installed the new one properly along with a little over 6 qts of oil and all is well.
Now somebody tell GM to move Arnold Schwarzenegger off that part of the assembly line
Now somebody tell GM to move Arnold Schwarzenegger off that part of the assembly line
Although I have various size channel locks, it is cumbersome. I choose strap wrench in most application, especially where dealing with tight space.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
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Simple version: oils are thicker when cold, thinner when hot. Multi-viscosity oils simply thicken less when cold (while maintaining their running-temp thickness) than do single-viscosity oils.
Last edited by crainholio; Jun 9, 2013 at 09:52 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 32,074
Likes: 296
From: San Francisco CA
Sorry but this is so horribly wrong that it broke the needle on the wrong-o-meter. Reading the grade numbers on the bottle label might lead one to believe that oil is actually thinner (lower viscosity) when cold, but it's just not the case.
Simple version: oils are thicker when cold, thinner when hot. Multi-viscosity oils simply thicken less when cold (while maintaining their running-temp thickness) than do single-viscosity oils.
Simple version: oils are thicker when cold, thinner when hot. Multi-viscosity oils simply thicken less when cold (while maintaining their running-temp thickness) than do single-viscosity oils.
Which makes it so much easier to remove oil filter by hand if you hand tightened it last time.. Drain plugs easier to remove also when hot. Been doing it for over 25 years now.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 20,933
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From: salem OR
^^^Nope, hot or cold, makes no difference to the tightness phenomenon.
Actually, one can ran into more problem during fastener removal while components are hot - especially between dissimilar metal!
Example: removing spark plug from aluminum block. Hint: its not that heat can burn hands.
---
Food for thought:-
-With todays multi viscosity motor oil, oil is actually at its thinnest state when cold.
-With engine sit over night, oil along with undesirable crude is already settled at the bottom of the oil pan.
Given the above two scenarios:-
Before changing oil:
Would it be wise to drive the car up to normal running temperature, while doing so, once settle accumulated crude at the oil pan is recirculated as well as the once thin 5 weight oil is now thicker 30 weight?
Actually, one can ran into more problem during fastener removal while components are hot - especially between dissimilar metal!
Example: removing spark plug from aluminum block. Hint: its not that heat can burn hands.
---
Food for thought:-
-With todays multi viscosity motor oil, oil is actually at its thinnest state when cold.
-With engine sit over night, oil along with undesirable crude is already settled at the bottom of the oil pan.
Given the above two scenarios:-
Before changing oil:
Would it be wise to drive the car up to normal running temperature, while doing so, once settle accumulated crude at the oil pan is recirculated as well as the once thin 5 weight oil is now thicker 30 weight?
Not even close! Oil pours much faster hot! You should try changing some oil some time!
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 34
^^^For all the experts that actually do any of their own work, not only changing their own oil, or for some that actually bring their supplies to whoever to do the actual work that are all over me for suggesting food for thoughts:-
My question was simply curious on what others think.
Like testing the water? Like sending smoke up the you know what? Bring out people's true colors! Got the drift??
Now, you "experts" go have a "real" DIY day!!
As for me, I like to change my oil - by the way, where is the drain plug?
My question was simply curious on what others think.
Like testing the water? Like sending smoke up the you know what? Bring out people's true colors! Got the drift??
Now, you "experts" go have a "real" DIY day!!
As for me, I like to change my oil - by the way, where is the drain plug?
