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F55 Tech question.....

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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 05:51 PM
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Default F55 Tech question.....

I tried this in general and no luck at all, so I will try here.
Does anyone know how to find out which mode an F55 suspension is in
when the circuit is open? I never take mine out of sport mode. I want it
to stay there. I am going to get a new console top without the switch.
So, with the switch disconnected, will it be in sport or tour?
If tour, I can always jumper the pins in the connector.
I took it apart already, but can't tell by looking. I can only see one of
the contact points on the switch. To see the other, I would have to completely take it apart, and I tried but was afraid it was going to break.
Any knowledge would help greatly. I do not have a voltage gauge or an
ohm meter either.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 05:54 PM
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I dont know the answer, but why not just leave the switch hidden underneath the console... in sport mode.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by realcanuk
I dont know the answer, but why not just leave the switch hidden underneath the console... in sport mode.
I thought of that too, I am not sure it will fit. It is larger than you would think.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by JFKLS3
I thought of that too, I am not sure it will fit. It is larger than you would think.
I am pretty sure it will. I have had my console off more times than I would want to, and there is some room in there. Seems the easiest fix if it does fit and that way its there if you ever change your mind.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 06:35 PM
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You could simply replace it with a small toggle switch since that's all it really is - single pole single throw.

According to the schematics open is Tour, closed is Sport.

Z//


Last edited by Zoxxo; Jun 17, 2013 at 06:43 PM.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 07:29 PM
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Excellent, thanks for the info. The switch just might fit in there. I just checked.
If it doesn't fit there are 4 wires on the connector. 2 black for ground and a gray
with black stripe, and a brown with a white stripe. I would need to know which,
the gray or the brown is for the ride control. The other is for the light in the switch.
I wouldn't want to jumper the light power. I imagine that would cause problems.....
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JFKLS3
Excellent, thanks for the info. The switch just might fit in there. I just checked.
If it doesn't fit there are 4 wires on the connector. 2 black for ground and a gray
with black stripe, and a brown with a white stripe. I would need to know which,
the gray or the brown is for the ride control. The other is for the light in the switch.
I wouldn't want to jumper the light power. I imagine that would cause problems.....
The tan/white is the ride control line. Grey & black is the lighting.

Z//
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 08:15 PM
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Thank-you so much for the helpful info. I will probably just jumper the connector.
That way, I can sell my console top on ebay with the ride switch in it.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by JFKLS3
Thank-you so much for the helpful info. I will probably just jumper the connector.
That way, I can sell my console top on ebay with the ride switch in it.


Z//
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Old Jun 20, 2013 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Zoxxo
According to the schematics open is Tour, closed is Sport.
That means suspension 'default' mode (if disconnected) is closed, right? That'd make sense, to protect car from bottoming out easier.

My question to you is if you just disconnect the rotary switch, it should stay in 'sport', correct? And finally, would the dash throw a code if the switch is just disconnected??? Just curious. Thx.
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Old Jun 20, 2013 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ELP_JC
That means suspension 'default' mode (if disconnected) is closed, right? That'd make sense, to protect car from bottoming out easier.

My question to you is if you just disconnect the rotary switch, it should stay in 'sport', correct? And finally, would the dash throw a code if the switch is just disconnected??? Just curious. Thx.
With the switch simply disconnected ("just dangling wires") the circuit would be open which would mean it's in Touring mode. Having the contacts open is functionally the same as having the wires to/from the switch disconnected (= Touring - see schematic above.)

There shouldn't be any "thrown codes" (aka light on dash) regarding what selection you have made which is what this would be for all intents.

In one sentence: disconnecting the switch means putting the car into Touring mode.

Z//
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Old Jun 20, 2013 | 04:00 PM
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Disconnected is Tour mode, hardwired is Sport.
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Old Jun 20, 2013 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Zoxxo
In one sentence: disconnecting the switch means putting the car into Touring mode.
Thanks man. So if switch is disconnected, we would never know and car wouldn't throw a code at all, right? My car had a broken connector from the factory, and maybe that's why I didn't feel any difference from tour to sport. When I took the console out to check shifter box alignment '12 GS here) not too long ago, switch came right off when pulling the console out (maybe it wasn't making contact). Noticed the tabs were broken, but didn't bother to make a warranty claim since it's not a big deal at all, and didn't want the entire freaking harness replaced (and having to half-dismantle the car) just for that. So just put tape around the connector to make it tighter (should have put a bit more). Since there isn't much difference from tour to sport anyway, just wanted to know if disconnecting threw a code, like another forum member said it would in a thread I read once. I trust you a lot more , and your answer is no, correct? Thanks again for your help man; greatly appreciated.

Last edited by JCtx; Jun 20, 2013 at 04:56 PM.
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Old Jun 20, 2013 | 07:40 PM
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One of the basic "problems" the F55 system has is that people expect it to be the same as "I stiffened up my Koni shocks" and that they will feel the difference as soon as they turn the **** - the car's ride should clearly be harder or softer as you drive down the road. The F55 system doesn't do that. In fact, it's kind of the point of the thing that you don't feel a difference when you go to Sport mode. The difference is felt once you start to push the car. It's an active system that only needs to "be harder" when it needs to be - not all the time like passive shocks.

The key to the F55 system is its ability to react differently to various, combined inputs. And each corner can react differently and it can do so very quickly. Standard shocks take a setting and they are now "this hard" and to change that generally means taking a tool to each shock. F55 can adjust on the fly based upon suspension movement, steering input, lateral Gs, etc., to give you what's needed and only what's needed. The computer(s) can analyze what's going on and react accordingly. Standard shocks are just "dumb" motion dampers.

The moral of the story: The fact that you can't feel a difference when you turn the **** doesn't mean it's not working!

Z//
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Zoxxo
One of the basic "problems" the F55 system has is that people expect it to be the same as "I stiffened up my Koni shocks" and that they will feel the difference as soon as they turn the **** - the car's ride should clearly be harder or softer as you drive down the road. The F55 system doesn't do that. In fact, it's kind of the point of the thing that you don't feel a difference when you go to Sport mode. The difference is felt once you start to push the car. It's an active system that only needs to "be harder" when it needs to be - not all the time like passive shocks.

The key to the F55 system is its ability to react differently to various, combined inputs. And each corner can react differently and it can do so very quickly. Standard shocks take a setting and they are now "this hard" and to change that generally means taking a tool to each shock. F55 can adjust on the fly based upon suspension movement, steering input, lateral Gs, etc., to give you what's needed and only what's needed. The computer(s) can analyze what's going on and react accordingly. Standard shocks are just "dumb" motion dampers.

The moral of the story: The fact that you can't feel a difference when you turn the **** doesn't mean it's not working!

Z//
Well said...and I think it would be good if GM had a couple more positions for the switch so that the highest level would actually make the shocks feel like you "stiffened up your Konis"...that way people would really know that the system was working. I'm expecting something like this on the C7.
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 01:21 AM
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Originally Posted by ELP_JC
...just wanted to know if disconnecting threw a code, like another forum member said it would in a thread I read once. I trust you a lot more , and your answer is no, correct? Thanks again for your help man; greatly appreciated.
I reread the entire F55 section in the service manual tonight and there is simply no way for the switch to "code" anything - even a DTC that doesn't show up on the dash. All the DTCs in the F55 system come from either internal self-tests by the computers or from the computers sensing abnormal data - or a total lack of data - from the sensors at the 4 corners. It's kind of surprising that there is nothing at all to tell the driver that the system is actually functioning given how subtle the system is in its feel.

And no problem.

Z//
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Zoxxo
I reread the entire F55 section in the service manual tonight and there is simply no way for the switch to "code" anything - even a DTC that doesn't show up on the dash.
Thanks a lot for that work buddy . Yeah, just a 'MRC SPORT MODE' 'MRC TOUR MODE' on the DIC when switching modes would indicate the system is alive and working. How hard could that be? Oh well. Thanks again for researching that; now we all know for sure no codes due to disconnecting switch or malfunctioning switch. And that TOUR mode is the default one. Take care.
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