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Propshaft couplers

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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 10:24 PM
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Default Propshaft couplers

Doing some research on what to use and trying to decide between running polyurethane on both ends or going with a billet rear and a stock front. Anyone running either of these setups? Any issues?
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 10:39 AM
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don't you think billet couplers would have a weird harmonic or vibration noise to them ? I would imagine the polly couplers would be the way to go. I am also curious because I have OE parts and they work fine for me.
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by blkscls1z
Doing some research on what to use and trying to decide between running polyurethane on both ends or going with a billet rear and a stock front. Anyone running either of these setups? Any issues?
DSS or RPM poly couplers, dont mess with the solids. I have a tt bearing rebuild kit laying around from RPM
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 12:51 PM
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I have a new aluminum drive shaft with the poly style drive doughnuts from the Drive Shaft Shop in my C6 I came tell a very very small difference in the stock pieces as far as the harmonics you mentioned I would say most people would never even know the difference if they drove there car and then mine
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 01:34 PM
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Why are you changing them? Are you having some issues?
Jeff
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Justasheet
Why are you changing them? Are you having some issues?
Jeff
I have the trans and rear out of the car right now and wanted to upgrade since I have the opportunity. Stock couplers have 72k miles and doubt they will hold up to the 750ish hp I am planning to make.
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by blkscls1z
I have the trans and rear out of the car right now and wanted to upgrade since I have the opportunity. Stock couplers have 72k miles and doubt they will hold up to the 750ish hp I am planning to make.
I understand and agree with you. The couplers I was told are good on average for about 50K miles if you beat on them. I know the poly couplers are around $200 a piece and the labor to take the torque tube apart can get costly too, that's why I was asking.

I was going your route but had a bad driveshaft too. It wound up being cheaper to replace the torque tube with a brand new one from GM. $1100 and a 1 year warranty. I stayed with the stock couplers in the new TT. Horse Power Sales of Pompano did all the work for me.
Jeff

Last edited by Justasheet; Jul 1, 2013 at 01:55 PM.
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 02:52 PM
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AutoX/RoadRacing Section has this discussion going on right now.

Lots of knowledge there for anyone.
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 12:31 PM
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Going with the poly couplers. I won't be autox'ing/road racing the car and the exhaust won't be going all the way out the back so the heat shouldn't be an issue either.
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