I started to uninstall my old exhaust and install my new one.
I have searched and have not found answers on a couple of questions I have.
1) How do you adjust the mufflers? Is it just adjusting the mid pipes in and out and turning them?
2) The connection of the x-pipe to the headers, there seems to be a gap on one side and tight on the other, is this normal? It is like a ball joint.
3) I installed the bracket for the trans cooler lines, the lines are still close to the header I don't think I can put my finger between them.
4) The front cross member to the header, both sides look close, is this normal?

I have pictures but I don't know how to upload them yet, I will search to find out how.

Thank you for any help.

 

Here are some images.

 

I have another question, the O2 sensors that attach to the x-pipe, does the one that is on the driver side attach to the driver side and the passenger side to the passenger side. I ask this because when installed they point to the opposite sides.

Once again thank-you for any help.

 

1. leave every thing loose so you can adjust stuff
2. see # 1
3. sometimes those brakets need to be bent. all cars are different.
4. some folks have had to trim the body to make LARGE tubes fit.
5. the rear 02's won't matter because they are tuned out, but they go by side.

 

Number 3) wrap the headers in that area with some 1 or 2 inch wide high temp heat wrap, you can use ss screw pipe clamps to secure the heat wrap to the headers or ss tie wire like I did.

You can also use the heat wrap or aluminum heat tape to wrap the two cooler lines in that close area also like I did; my trans temp actually came down from stock. I think you may find the wrap, etc. at Summit Racing for one place.

You can even leave the header engine flange bolts hand tight before you start to tighten things up, when every thing is snug and/or looks as good as its going to get than I would start from the header engine flanges on back with the final tightening.

 

Thank you for your suggestions, I did keep everything from the header flange down lose, but I was still unable to get everything as centered as I would have liked too.
I will wrap the lines when I reach my 500 mile mark, that is when it is suggested to re tighten every thing. The x-pipe never did line up as well as I would have liked, they are off center, I tried to tighten each side a little at a time but it would pop to one side or the other. I tried this four times. Maybe I received out of tolerance parts I don't know. There are no leaks and the only rattle I hear are from the baffles on the B&B mufflers. The drone from them now are deafening, I think I need different mufflers.

 

Put the stock mufflers back on and you will be happy in the long run, quiet at idle and cruising but the exhaust will start talking under full guns. Speaking of full guns you will not give up any hp no matter what mufflers you run from a lot of posts I read here, its mostly about sound. I hold the GS "stock" and "bolt-on" 1/4 mile records (with good mph) for now running the stock (430hp) mufflers.

PS: My collector bolts came loose after a 1,000+ miles. I switched to SS bolts and "double nutted" them along with some high temp lock-tite and the bolts have been fine since. OEM exhaust head gaskets seal the best from what I have read and I have not had any exhaust leaks using them.

 

good advice. one side of me wants to buy an aftermarket axle back when I do headers, and the other side says to save you $$$ and keep the stock axle back because u wont gain much hp.

thanks for that.

 

Thanks for the advice. The B&B fusions came with the car when I bought it. I would like to go with the PRT's. When I go to re-tighten the system I will double nut the flanges. I just bought some header wrap and will wrap the area around the trans lines. I am also thinking of putting on a ported throttle body, any thoughts?

 

having the same fitmit problem at the ball and socket, I have a leak because i can hear the ticking sound. Its almost like the welded K piece is to short and pulls them in instead of letting them be free for slight movement.

I also have a leak at the mid pipe extensions, even tho they are pushed all the way in and band clamped.

What did you do to stop them from leaking?

 

I used store bought "made in USA" stainless steel band clamps (60/65 lbs. torque) worked much better than the thicker, shorter ones that came with the headers. The store bought clamps which have a double U-shaped aluminum block between the bands which I placed on the bottom, water and exhaust gas can escape but I don't "hear" any exhaust leak but I do have water drips. The mid-pipe connection is behind both O2 sensors on my headers so it does not affect the sensors and cause a light/code and I have all four sensors working.

No cats on mine, so I used anti-plug foulers with the "rear O2 sensors" so I would not get a code. I have read that even with aftermarket cats you will get a code if you leave the rear sensors turned on. It's been many thousands of miles now and still no light/code using the anti-plug foulers, two foulers needed per side/rear O2 sensor.

I took a look at ATDS's first pic and if your (007) fit is similar then "I" would double cut that "K" marked welded flat strip out between the two pipes to allow for more movement which may help sealing. Loosen both the collector and mid-pipes before re-tightening the collector bolts first.

 

My driver side still leaks a little, I have tried to adjust these many times now with no luck. I think I am going to contact maryland speed and or Kooks to see what they say. I do not hear a leak at the mid pipes but it does leak water, my original ones leaked also. I am a quater inch off to the driver side right now because of the mis alignment of the x-pipe.

 

I am dealing with someone who is contacting kooks on this. I believe it's almost like the K weld piece is to short and it's pulling it together when welding it in.

In any case, if I tighten up it leaks worse so I'm back to running
it a little loose which is not how they should be.

 

First of all thank you for buying Kooks Headers.
1)The muffler adjustment will be at the mid pipes. The pipes do not have to be pushed all the way into the X there is a lot of adjustment.
2)The Ball & Socket set up on the headers to X have a lot of adjustment also. When they are fully seated together and tightened evenly there should be no leak, they do not need to 100% even all the way around that is adjustment. I usually put the whole system in the car and loosely and snug everything so it will hold an adjustment but still move. Then start tightening each joint working from front to back. Sometimes the X-pipe wants to "push" over to one side, especially after its run and try to re-adjust it. Shim the pipe over on the tunnel with a piece of wood, or have a friend help and keep it centered as you tighten it.
3)The transmission cooler lines vary car to car, as to how close they wind up. There was a strip of reflective heat tape in the small parts box, that should of been put on those lines to protect them. the bracket moves them up to clear, some cars may require a little massaging to make them stay away.
4)The front suspension to header clearance looks good to me by the pictures you show.

We also recommend re-tightening all the bolts after a heat cycle or two, this should be done until the bolts keep their torque. I have seen the ball & socket connection bolts loose to turn and not have a leak. upon disassembly they needed to be hit with a rubber mallet to break free.
Headers will make more noise than manifolds due to the thickness of the tubing. 18 gauge/.049 thick tubing is way thinner than 1/8-1/4 thick cast steel. yo will hear the "pop" of the exhaust stoke more, so don't let that confuse you with an exhaust leak. I have also found that more often than not the header to head is leaking before the ball & socket do. water dripping from the connections is normal, yo should not worry about that as a leak. also so you know Stainless Steel grows when hot so things will be in different positions when hot or cold.

Thank you again,
I hope this helps you,feel free to contact me if you have any further questions.

Drew Amitrano
Sales,Tech & Social Media
Kooks Custom Headers
141 Advantage Place
Statesville, NC 28677
Phone - 704.768.2288 x218
Fax - 704.768.2266
Email - drew@kookscustomheaders.com

 

Not to hi jack ATDS thread but sounds like we are in the same boat.

Mines ticking away, if I tighten correctly it almost sounds like a knock( defiantly a leak)

Will try the shim tomorrow but I no it won't fix it.

 

I have a off brand of headers on my car, no "K" support welded on my 3" X-pipe. I read the Kooks post above and using pieces of wood for wedges on the X-pipe to keep it centered is what I did; stopped the X-pipe from pulling. Also look to see if the X-pipe installation is level so to speak i.e. not hanging down, if not level as in my case than I used some 2 by 4 wood for that.

I only used wood wedges on one side for centering the X-pipe because it wanted to pull only to the one side.

If I would of used wood on both sides of the X-pipe to center it (lock it in place) than I would not of needed a length of 2 by 4 for the height adjustment. The real reason I did not use wedges on both sides of the X-pipe is that I did not have a piece handy that would fit the other side. Bottom line: I did this on the floor of my garage and if I did it again I would still use the 2 by 4 to hold the height adjustment because the wedges can slip/move and if the X-pipe starts to move as you tighten down you may have to adjust the wedges some more.

PS: Installing these cheap off-brand headers on my car was a "royal" pain in the a$$ for me; however when I finally got it done the exhaust system is as quiet as it can be, even with the hood up. Sounds like stock with the hood down no matter where you stand around the car. If interested click on my thread below.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...-american.html