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I relocated my battery to the rear a few years ago. I made a bunch of other changes at the time (stroker motor & turbo kit) so it's hard to tell if the symptom is due to the relocation but I wanted to see if I'm missing something. The car has a stutter to it. Cruising around at low RPM's it feels like it's missing intermittently. Also it needs to be started twice most times, there's no spark the first time, turn it off and back on and it starts. I've done a bunch of investigation into coils, injectors, cam sensor, etc. But for the purposes of this thread I want to make sure I didn't alter the electrical charging system somehow that could cause these or any other problems.
Battery is in the rear compartment. The negative from the battery grounds to the frame behind the rear passenger wheel well. The positive wire from the battery runs up through the rocker panel to the engine fuse box. There is another wire from the fuse box to the alternator. The wire to the starter is from the stock loom which I guess goes to the underhoos fuse box as well. There is a ground wire from the frame near the fusebox to the rear of the passenger head.
Last edited by 5 Liter Eater; Jul 31, 2013 at 02:16 PM.
I would emulate the battery wiring on the Z06 which (I think) has the battery in the RH rear - you may have introduced some kind of a ground loop problem with the additional ground wire mentioned in the last sentence. Are you seeing any error codes - even ones that do not show a light?
You said you are using the stock battery wiring loom?
I would run a 0awg positive wire from the battery to a distrobution block, mount that below the cabin filter access. 2awg to the starter and a 2awg fuse box.
Remove the factory battery harness and make a 0awg ground upfront from frame to engine.
I relocated my battery to the rear a few years ago. I made a bunch of other changes at the time (stroker motor & turbo kit) so it's hard to tell if the symptom is due to the relocation but I wanted to see if I'm missing something. The car has a stutter to it. Cruising around at low RPM's it feels like it's missing intermittently. Also it needs to be started twice most times, there's no spark the first time, turn it off and back on and it starts. I've done a bunch of investigation into coils, injectors, cam sensor, etc. But for the purposes of this thread I want to make sure I didn't alter the electrical charging system somehow that could cause these or any other problems.
Battery is in the rear compartment. The negative from the battery grounds to the frame behind the rear passenger wheel well. The positive wire from the battery runs up through the rocker panel to the engine fuse box. There is another wire from the fuse box to the alternator. The wire to the starter is from the stock loom which I guess goes to the underhoos fuse box as well. There is a ground wire from the frame near the fusebox to the rear of the passenger head.
Sounds like a fuel pump going with the two off and on, when i did the rear battery I just cut the battery terminals off leaving enough to drill so the new cable eye can be bolted to the stock positive cables, then taped the bolted area. used number 2 cable and soldered new eyes on the positive ran threw the rocker up the inside wheel tub, bought a new ground with 2 eyes 14" long and bolted it to the factory frame, took the front battery ground cut end clamp off left enough to drill and grounded it at the factory ground between the engine and fuse box ground near the box behind the rear passenger wheel well, added two light weight battery ends that have a stud to go threw the eyes and just nut, has worked perfect for a few years now, even with a light weight battery.
Carl, the only thing stock is the starter wire. I think it comes out if the fuse box, into the wiring harness and to the starter. All other wires are newly installed 0 GA.
Dennis, the fuel pumps are run off a Racetronix harness from the alternator. It just uses the stock wiring as a trigger. I don't see any fluctuation in fuel pressure when the stutters happen. The stutters are real quick which makes me think coil or injector and I was thinking that there may be a ground problem. I probed the coils and I get a full 12V between the outside wires of all the coil connectors.
Seems pretty unlikely. The double starting only happened after I put the (first) stoker in. I keep coming back to maybe something with the double roller timing set, even though both strokers had different timing sets. I have a Casper cam sensor extenstion coming and I'm going to try using the dummy cam sensor I have installed in the back of the iron block just to see.
Seems pretty unlikely. The double starting only happened after I put the (first) stoker in. I keep coming back to maybe something with the double roller timing set, even though both strokers had different timing sets. I have a Casper cam sensor extenstion coming and I'm going to try using the dummy cam sensor I have installed in the back of the iron block just to see.
Got "high battery voltage" three times on the way to work this morning. Voltage spiked to ~17V for ~10 seconds and then came back down to normal. Did this three times. Yay, another gremlin.
Have you checked your alternator because when my friends alternator on his CTSV started going out he was getting weird electrical problems and voltage spikes and drops.