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TSP/LS2 160 Degree Thermostat

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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 11:02 AM
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Default TSP/LS2 160 Degree Thermostat

I purchasedthe TSP LS2160 Degree Thermostat. I would like to know if anyone has installed this product before, and did you really notice a difference as a daily driver and in competition mode. Thanks in advance...
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 01:13 PM
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I had a 160 Degree Thermostat installed with some other upgrades a long time ago. Along with it I had the car dyno tuned and fan settings adjusted. I also use 2 bottles of water wetter - http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10 in the cooling system. All my fluids and filters are chagned every March or around 30K miles on the car. I have had only one problem at first, that was corrected with a tune later on. During the winter, "Texas" about low 50's it took a little longer for the car to come up to operating temp and the computer gave me a code. No other problems since.
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 02:09 PM
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After I got my supercharger installed, I was running around 190 on the highway and ~205 at idle. I put in a 160 thermostat and started using a 75water/25coolant mix with 2 bottles of water wetter, now I see ~176 on the highway and ~195 idling.
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 02:58 PM
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Here in Florida............
I see 180-200 max.
Water wetter with 50% distilled water.
no tuning.
Robin
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 03:18 PM
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A 160 stat was one of my earliest mods. Living in Phoenix with summer temps easily exceeding 110 it was the logical choice to help keep things cooler. The DIC readout is usually 10 degrees higher than the stat's rating, yet I'm able to maintain numbers in the high 180's to mid-190's while at a steady 40+mph on 100+ degree days.

Driving in heavy rush hour stop 'n go traffic the temps can go above 230, but the T-stat makes no difference then anyway.
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 05:56 PM
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I removed mine 160 Degree thermostat when I came to the conclusion that the extra miles it took to get up to operating temp for the engine oil was increasing wear during the Winter months.

Now how much, I haven't a clue but I figure it took twice as long to warm up.

I run a 180 degree now.

For HP it is warranted but for a street car I think it is a little bit abusive during the cooler months. This would cause a change of the stat twice a year....just to much trouble for me.

I plan on keeping my 08 for some time.

Last edited by Boomer111; Sep 20, 2013 at 05:59 PM.
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
Driving in heavy rush hour stop 'n go traffic the temps can go above 230, but the T-stat makes no difference then anyway.
Was coming in here to touch on this.

Just because you slap a t-stat in your car doesn't not necessarily mean it's going to run a lot cooler. You need a tune, or at the very least a fan setting change in the PCM, to take full advantage of your t-stat install. The thermostat's job is obviously to open at a certain temp to allow coolant to pass through the water pump. However if the fans are still set to kick on @ 230 degrees, your car will still run @ 230 degrees in traffic.

To make the t-stat mod worthwhile a tune is required for best results. The the right fan settings you can keep your car within 180-190* at all times, even when sitting in traffic.

Originally Posted by Boomer111
I removed mine 160 Degree thermostat when I came to the conclusion that the extra miles it took to get up to operating temp for the engine oil was increasing wear during the Winter months.

Now how much, I haven't a clue but I figure it took twice as long to warm up.

I run a 180 degree now.

For HP it is warranted but for a street car I think it is a little bit abusive during the cooler months. This would cause a change of the stat twice a year....just to much trouble for me.

I plan on keeping my 08 for some time.
You bring up a good point. Depending on where you live, I do not recommend running a colder thermostat. We've built several cars from up north and I always leave the stock (195) thermo in them due to the freezing temps. Those cars need to heat up the chamber to run properly in northern climates.

Chamber temps can also effect fueling. If a car runs too cold, it will never go into closed loop fueling which can effect gas mileage in a negative way.

For anybody down south or anywhere else in the country with mild winters & hot summers, a 160 stat is perfectly fine (and recommended). Up north cars need to run a little hotter in winter climates.
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 11:28 PM
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I see no reason for a tune here in Fl.
When its hot the AC is on and the fans are on.
Again, At lights its 200. on the road its 180.
I have driven the car with the AC off. I tried it
on the highway just to see what happned. Still
liked to run at 180-182.
Robin
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Josh@SpartanLSX
Was coming in here to touch on this.

Just because you slap a t-stat in your car doesn't not necessarily mean it's going to run a lot cooler. You need a tune, or at the very least a fan setting change in the PCM, to take full advantage of your t-stat install. The thermostat's job is obviously to open at a certain temp to allow coolant to pass through the water pump. However if the fans are still set to kick on @ 230 degrees, your car will still run @ 230 degrees in traffic.

To make the t-stat mod worthwhile a tune is required for best results. The the right fan settings you can keep your car within 180-190* at all times, even when sitting in traffic.

I'm way beyond your first impression (check my profile) and I also assume you've never driven in Phoenix in the summer. We have an annual average of 92 days over 100* and 11 days exceeding 110*. Two years ago that was 33 days of over 110* temps. The heat coming off the asphalt can easily exceed 140*. You can get 2nd degree burns walking barefoot in the street. The high this year was 119*. And yes, it is possible to fry eggs on the sidewalk.

I do my own tuning, but am always receptive to alternate methods. My current settings are: 42% @ 192*, 55% @ 196*, 74% @ 199*, 88% @ 203*, and 90% from 207* and higher. I have a Vararam that partially blocks frontal airflow and a B&M trans cooler mounted horizontally and centered at the bottom front of the condenser that partially blocks vertical airflow. The trans cooler bypasses the radiator cooler, but obviously still contributes additional heated air.
If you can suggest different settings to even keep engine temps below 210, let alone the 190 you mentioned, I'd be willing to try it. I've burnt up 2 electrical connectors with the fan settings quickly increasing to 90% from 192* to 199*, so I know that doesn't work.
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