I have a 07 A6 vette I put a pro yank 3600 in it and when I went to get it tuned my tuner guy could not lock up the torque converter clutch manually or automatically. So we assumed it was broke I then took it out and put the old stock converter back into the car it works fine locks up perfectly and no problems. He increased all the pressures to.

Code is P0741 torque converter clutch solenoid circuit performance or stuck off

Sent the yank converter back to yank to have them look at it they opened it and said it was perfectly fine nothing wrong.

Was wondering if this happened to anyone else and what could be the problem.
Yank is sending the converter back to me but I want to research the possible cause before I spend more time swapping it again.

Thanks

 

not your answer but, I just took that same converter out of my 402 because Dave at Yank said that Pro converter was for setups having over 1,000 rwhp. I changed to the SS 3600. He said the big converter was killing my ET. Do you have a procharger or turbo setup your running ? I am just curious.

Edit:
I just read the SS series is rated to 650 rwhp and is a 9.5" converter. I guess the Pro Series covers from 650 to 1200 rwhp, and is a 10.5" converter.

Thx

 

What ended up being your problem?

 

Are you saying your converter will not lock while driving it on the street ??
Street tuning a high stall converter takes some special tuning
1 You must set all your desired shift times to "0" to put the trans in adaptive shift mode
2 You must delete all your misfire codes ( as a stall creates false misfires)
3 You must set your TCC pulse width modulation tables to read 98% low and 99% high
Now if you tuner is trying to lock the converter on the dyno--This cannot happen as GM UNLOCKS all their converters when your car goes to WOT---

 

The OP's torque converter problem happened 5 years ago.

In fact, the OP hasn't made a post here in the Corvette forum since back in 2013 !

 

Not to mention most of this is all wrong.

 

Yep, you are correct - for a lot of setups you can literally get away with doing absolutely nothing to the tune and end up being perfectly fine.

If however you're making decent power and are a hardcore racer then you'll need to lower your commanded shift points to help stay off the rev-limiter. Other than that though nothing is required.

 

All this data is taken directly off an EFILIVE trans tune file for either a 4 speed auto trans or a 6 speed auto trans
I would suspect you have never looked at a Auto trans tune file with real tuning software---otherwise you would know all I said is correct---You cannot lock any GM auto trans in the tune to make it stay locked at WOT---- In order to lock the TCC at WOT you must input a value above 100% TPS to keep the TCC locked at WOT However the table ends at 100% TPS--so it cannot LOCK
Maybe if using the DVT system in EFILIVE you can temporarily lock the TCC at WOT on the dyno But I have never been able to make this feature work
If you have some magic way to lock the TCC at WOT Please share it with us---Otherwise youu are simply mis informed--

 

This nonsense really doesn't deserve an answer but I can assure you I've seen a file or 2 since I tune my own car.
Magically, my converter stays locked at full throttle any time it's commanded to.
I will leave it at that.

 

 

Ok guys I was mistaken on a C5 and a C6 as far as TCC lockup at WOT or 100% TPS--I was thinking of other manufacturers TCM tune files at the time and got confused------YES you can re-tune an A4 or an A6 to remain LOCKED in all gears at WOT ( but just not 1st- on an A4 ----- Sorry for the mis information --
We all make mistakes but only few people admit them---
PS Just so you know I've tuned over 2000 GM gas cars and trks from stock to boosted as well as 200 Ford Mustangs and 300 of the new Dodges --- 15 years as a Pro tuner----- also over 500 D Max Diesels- 200 Powerstroke diesels and 300 Cummins diesels
I have so much tuning information rolling around in my head that I got mixed up on this issue Again sorry--

 

BTW, I am thinking of using a yank 3200 stall on a 2.56 geared 2008 A6 for my DD and of course a few passes down the track. I have never swapped a converter on anything other than typical rear drive chevy's. How much of a bitch are they to swap? and is the bang for the buck worth it. How much does it affect driveability in cold weather? Would I need a tune to dial it in?

 

Best bang for the buck, short of the $2 shroud prop. No tune required. Good for a solid .20 for the short time with DR's. Drives just like you would have wanted it to from the factory. Cold trans fluid temps below 150 have WOT shifting irregularities even on stock stalls, but more so as the stall speeds increase. You can get away without an additional cooler, unless you drive in the mountains. I did the first of 3 converter swaps on jackstands in my garage at age 67. Overfill about 1/2 quart to avoid pump cavitation upon launch.

 

I was thinking about the cooler also, thanks for giving that info out. I am 69 will definitely consider doing the converter myself. I would assume you use a good full synthetic trans fluid.. what about tuning out torque management and setting up the trans to make sure it shifts at 6500 rpm at WOT. The .20 short time gain I would think carry's thru to the 1/4 with a better .2 ET correct.

 

I use the Texron VI original fill fluid, since that's the fluid that was used in the development and testing of the trans. I'm at 155K miles without a failure, when many said I'd be lucky to get 100K before something broke. I don't know how much of that can be attributed to using the OEM fluids, but GM staked their warranty on using that specific fluid formula, so I'm not about to second guess a bunch of high paid engineers based on some other company's advertising.
You can consider reducing torque management, but I don't eliminate it.
The stock tune shifts at 6500 in Sport mode with stock size tires. If you run smaller/larger sizes, you'll need to adjust the tune. Personally, I've set my shift points to match the DR size, since I really don't care what RPM it shifts at with street tires.
Just for reference, my best 60' with OEM RF's was 1.90 (ET 12.08), with DR's and stock stall was 1.85 (ET 11.89), with DR's and 3200 stall was 1.70 (ET 11.49). The rough averages for the same 3 conditions were closer to 2.00 and 12.20, 1.95 and 12.00, 1.75 and 11.65. There were other mods, tuning changes, tracks, and DA differences involved after the very first bone stock pass with a 2.12 60' and 12.65 ET.
Christopher, aka subfloor@centurytrans, posted a fairly comprehensive procedure list of how to swap converters. Other than hand tools, the only specialized thing needed is a trans jack. I've posted some other tools I've made or modified to make the trans fluid change easier.

 

It's Dexron, not Texron by the way - just in case the he goes to buy some and ends up having the guys at the parts counter look at him funny.

 

What year was your C6 ? LS3 car? I am curious because of the bone stock pass of 12.65 seems a little slow for a 2008 and up LS3. Dont these automatic cars easily run 12.4 in a 2500 DA day? BTW, thank you for the bundle of info for sure bud.

 

Thanks bud, dexron makes sense.