When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 08 with non run flat replacement tires that are about half worn. The inside of the driver side is wearing a little faster than the outside. Back in the day, we would get a alignment then switch tires front to back, because even with a new correct alignment, the tire is "set" and would not correct itself. Obviously, can't do that now.
So, get a alignment now or just wait 10k/15k to buy new tires then get the alignment. Would a alignment now just be a waste of money$.
Just my opinion but I know many here share it, it's never a bad time to get a GOOD alignment.
I don't want to start an argument about alignment "ranges" that most specifications contain and techs rely on. The problem is lazy techs use "ranges" to be sloppy and still be able to call their work proper, satisfactory and "in range". That nets you mediocre results and what you probably have, one tire that isn't right.
If your tires are not directional you can swap them side to side to start. Then do your research homework and find a GOOD alignment shop/tech that will work with you to get your car right.
Many here recommend the Pfadt Street Alignment specs for good tire wear and good street performance. Take this sheet with you to discuss with your tech and make sure he understands that you want the car set up exactly as specified, at least as close as humanly possible, on all corners, with "no range" acceptable. Just my opinion.
Just my opinion but I know many here share it, it's never a bad time to get a GOOD alignment.
I don't want to start an argument about alignment "ranges" that most specifications contain and techs rely on. The problem is lazy techs use "ranges" to be sloppy and still be able to call their work proper, satisfactory and "in range". That nets you mediocre results and what you probably have, one tire that isn't right.
If your tires are not directional you can swap them side to side to start. Then do your research homework and find a GOOD alignment shop/tech that will work with you to get your car right.
Many here recommend the Pfadt Street Alignment specs for good tire wear and good street performance. Take this sheet with you to discuss with your tech and make sure he understands that you want the car set up exactly as specified, at least as close as humanly possible, on all corners, with "no range" acceptable. Just my opinion.
Great spec sheet...just what I need for my alignment to eliminate inside tire wear.
Just make sure you tell your alignment guy that the sheet uses a negative sign for TOE IN. That is opposite of most machines and most people's understanding of Toe.
I have a 08 with non run flat replacement tires that are about half worn. The inside of the driver side is wearing a little faster than the outside. Back in the day, we would get a alignment then switch tires front to back, because even with a new correct alignment, the tire is "set" and would not correct itself. Obviously, can't do that now.
So, get a alignment now or just wait 10k/15k to buy new tires then get the alignment. Would a alignment now just be a waste of money$.
Your alignment is out if the drivers side is wearing quicker than the passenger side. Get it changed. Not sure what type of tires you have but you might be able to flip them on the rims and counteract the wear pattern. Most Vettes with the factory alignment settings will wear the inside of the tires. Wide bodies also tend to wear the outside of the rear tires. That is the price of owning a corner carver. If you aren't into corner carving you can lose some handling and set the suspension for a pure street alignment.
I do hundreds of alignments a month. And the tire wear i see most is camber wear. I had my last rear set of tires bite the bullet to camber wear. Now that i have my own alignment rack at my disposal(1 of 2) in our state that is the most advanced. I would recommend setting the front toe in at least 0.1or 0.2. And keeping the camber in the front and rear at least in the -0.2 or -0.3 range. Rear tire toe needs to be 0.0 I keep a very close eye on my new set of pilot super sports and the wear has been even since i got them 4 months ago. If you have to, stand out there with them and watch the numbers on the screen. All they see is green and print the sheet.
Last edited by Bradleyfr92; Jun 13, 2014 at 09:22 PM.
Just yesterday I brought my car for an advanced alignment and I brought the racing printout calling for -0.8 camber. My alignment guy said that number is WRONG...and he recommended highly against it.
He aligned the C6 to -0.3 camber.
Should I get that realigned to +0.2 ???
I too am sick of my tires wearing out to soon with premature camber wear.
Anything above -.4 is just asking to go through sets of tires in a heartbeat! Lol. Unless you track it and fun stuff like that all the time. But thank God i can check my alignments all the time.
Last edited by Bradleyfr92; Jun 13, 2014 at 09:28 PM.
Anything above .4 is just asking to go through sets of tires in a heartbeat! Lol. Unless you track it and fun stuff like that all the time. But thank God i can check my alignments all the time.
Did you see I edited my post...my alignment camber was set to -0.3
Did you see I edited my post...my alignment camber was set to -0.3
Should l Ihave it realigned?
I edited my posts. I forgot the - sign in the camber numbers. -.3 is a good inbetween regular street driving and driving aggressively. -.1 would last your tires longer , but that's just for general driving. What about your toe settings.
Great spec sheet...just what I need for my alignment to eliminate inside tire wear.
you will not eliminate inside wear with ANY alignment,. the suspension travels in an arc, think about it. he's going to run in for one and the tech is going to tell him it's where the factory put it, if you want to lesser wear in a "directional tire" rotate from side to side.