Hey all,

Trying to remove the lower control arm to install new ride height adjuster bolts (worn bushings) and the ball joint is stuck. Now I've separated many ball joints using the sledge hammer technique, but this was always on cars with steel control arms. I am afraid that I might damage the aluminum control arms on my C6. I have read on the forums here that other people have used a sledge hammer on our aluminum control arms with good results.

I guess my question is, has anyone ever broken a control arm using this method? Does it work on our aluminum control arms?

Thanks,
Marty

 

If you are going to use a sledgehammer, you should use two of them. The second one is placed on the other side of the control arm behind the ball joint.

Then when you whack the control arm/ball joint area with a sledgehammer, the control arm will distort, popping out the ball joint and the energy/force will then be transferred through the control arm and be absorbed by the second sledghammer rather than the control arm. This helps to prevent bending the control arm.

This was taught to me by my Dad who was a front-end mechanic (long since retired) for eight years.

 

Thanks for the reply. This is how I usually do it, but I have never tried it on an aluminum arm. Is it safe to say you have had good experiences using this method on aluminum?

 

I personally have not tried it on aluminum pieces........ball joints last so long nowadys........haven't had to replace one in years and years.

Sorry......hope someone can comment

 

So then you are planning on replacing this ball joint when you put everything back together?

 

A few good wacks with a heavy hammer will break it loose. Use a brass hammer or equivalent. I have never had a problem doing it this way.

 

I prefer to use the prescribed ball joint puller. They're not too expensive second-hand and are nice to have because the whole C6 suspension is made out of ball joints.

 

The ball joint will be reused. That's why I don't want to tear up the boot with a pickle fork. I've never had a problem reusing ball joints that i remove by hammer.

 

Is there one specific to our Corvettes, or are you just talking about the generic bolt-driven type?

 

I have always hit the top of the ball-joint bolt rather than the sides of the control arm. I loosen the nut so that it sits flush to slightly higher with the end of the bolt which then takes the force of the hammer blow and preserves the threads. Having the nut on the bolt end also prevents the suspension from moving very far when broke loose.

--Dan

 

For sure use the right tool. A pickle fork will rip the boot. What is your location? If you are in Houston you can borrow mine.

Steve

 

The Kent-Moore J-42188-B tool is a screw-driven press with deep, wide, low-profile, cantilevered jaws.



Most other screw-type ball joint tools are too thick and shallow to work on the Corvette.

 

I use the hammer method. It might take a few whacks on the side of the ball joint to get it loose. After hitting it a few times pull down on the control arm to see if it is loose. I pounded on it the first time until I realized it was already loose. The control arm barely moves down when the joint is loose.

Bill

 

That is the correct tool designed for the specific job.

Alternatively, in the proper hand, the cheaper available ball joint tool can be used but first must be modified. "U" opening must be ground, thinner and enlarged to provide proper fit, also to avoid damaging rubber grease retaining seal - especially since the lower ball joint is larger. However, not an ideal tool as the Kent-Moore.

My $.02s. Precision machined taper fit will be affected adversely with hammer strike. Typical general practice is using in line, mechanical force advantage to break free tighten precision taper fit. In the untrained hands, seeming no damage was done by hammering, but reusing distorted ball joint could lead to false torque value since the critical taper fit was compromised. When come time to use hammer to loosen the once torqued ball joint - surprise, the ball joint is already loose!

There are certainly time and place to use a hammer, to avoid sustaining damages, hammer should not be harder then the work being used on. Unless that is the intention or cold flowing is desired, such as using ball peen hammer to shape softer surface to desired spec.

To verify, simply hammer a piece of scrap aluminum even a grade 8 bolt and see for oneself the end result. Yet some still want to do that on their aluminum car components!

Go figure, right!

 

Havin a helluva time tryin to remove a front upper ball (from the spindle) on a '73. I'm makin sure the tooth on the pickle fork is going thru the frame's hole and not contacting the frame itself. I'm using PB Blaster & a sledge on it, and it's not budgin! Why?

UPDATE: Got a hold of a Ball Joint Separator Tool (HF #99849) and it did the job!

 

Harbor Freight $19.99 ball joint / Tie rod separator works like a charm....Tapered joints DO have to be removed with INLINE force....hammers and whatever will only cause frustration.

 

Changed rear hubs two months ago and tried every known method, including dry ice, because the correct tool was not available. I held off using a pickle fork as the last resort. Finally used it, but generously lubed both the boot and the pickle fork with old school wheel bearing grease and the boot survived.

 

just replaced and installed all new front ball joints in my c6, used harbor freights ball joint remover and installer tool, also bought the adapter kit.

 

+1 for the harbor freight ball joint tool. Taken off plenty now with no issues.