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MGW Shifter Install Notes

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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 11:16 PM
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Default MGW Shifter Install Notes

I just finished doing install on my 2012 GS for MGW shifter and thought to post a few notes that might help others doing the same. First, this is a great shifter (I bought the whole package including the lower shifter box and gripper ****) and you just can't go wrong if you feel like replacing the very good OEM shifter. I can say the MGW parts are super quality, perform as advertised with much shorter throws and little higher effort but really feels just like rifle bolt between all the gears. No looseness at all. That said, I followed the MGW videos and it all went well for what they showed. I was worried about the console but that turned out to be pretty easy, just take your time and follow the video and it should be no problem.

An area they did not show in video is removal of the OEM lower shift box. After I got down to that point, the box was pretty much stuck tight. I couldn't get it to move in the least. I finally got out a big screwdriver and rubber mallet and started tapping around to see if that would break it loose. I got it loose at the front mounting point but the rear was stuck tight. I finally got in and just wrenched around on the back to finally pry it loose enough, although in doing so the metal washer on top of the rubber grommet came loose and dropped down into the torque tube. So, pry those loose first!

Anyway, after all that the OEM lower box finally came out without much additional trouble. MGW now sends along a very nice centering tool, so putting their box back in is a piece of cake.

Second recommendation is to watch on installing the shift bar out of the OEM lower box unit when it goes into the MGW lower box. I found out that the OEM bar had a very slight burr kicked out in the hole in the front of the bar, where the OEM unit has that little rod sticking down from the shifter. I felt it by sliding the shift bar back and forth in the MGW bushings. I took a little 320 paper to both sides of the hole and the bar slid back and forth smooth as silk!

After that assembly of all the rest went very well. I bought the MGW gripper ****, just to see if it might be nice upgrade and I can tell you it is also a very well made unit. Just the right size to me. They supply a grommet to attach the standard shift boot (after '08 the boot attached to the OEM **** with a 1/4-turn feature that won't mate with the gripper ****). I did finally realize you have to put the grommet all the way down inside the boot, completely through the chrome trim ring, and hold it in place by grasping under the grommet through the boot. You can them force the grommet down over the shifter shaft and hold it while you start threading the gripper **** down onto the shaft. Keep twisting the gripper **** down the threads while holding the grommet up against the bottom of the **** until the **** just won't go any farther and at that point you should find the boot is very nicely mated up against the new gripper ****. Position the **** with the shift pattern correctly oriented, tighten the lock screw until you can't get it any tighter, and the installation is complete and the new **** is very secure!

See picture for final installation on my car. I think the gripper **** is a great addition for a neat look over the OEM ****.
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 12:20 AM
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An instructional video on how to install the lower shifter box is on their website. Once I loosened up the shifter box bolts it did not take much effort to remove it. No more missed 3rd gear shifts, no more rubbery shifts, shorter throws and precise up and down shifting. The MGW shifter and box are both great products that make a difference!

Last edited by Mike's LS3; Dec 23, 2013 at 12:35 AM.
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 07:51 AM
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Is the shifter shaft shorter than stock resulting in a lower **** height?
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 09:33 AM
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The MGW shifter and lower box is the best thing since canned beer. In my view one of the best mods one can do.

Have had the MGW shifter too long, don't remember oem shifter height.

Last edited by Larry Myers; Dec 23, 2013 at 09:36 AM.
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by vettenutchas
Is the shifter shaft shorter than stock resulting in a lower **** height?
You can have it either way. Two shafts are available that let you choose between the (slightly) lower MGW ***** and the stock Corvette ****.

http://www.mgwltd.com/corvette_short..._shifter.shtml

Z//
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenutchas
Is the shifter shaft shorter than stock resulting in a lower **** height?
I believe it is some shorter. I threaded the bottom end all the way down into the shifter body and did the same on the gripper ****. I know the overall shifter action is a bit "notchy" right now, but this may ease up some as it breaks in more. But there is no comparison in the accuracy of the shifter mechanism itself. Very tight pattern but also very reliable in gear selection. I recommend this as a great upgrade if you like the idea of tight shifter action.
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 12:03 AM
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I have their shifter and the MGW ****. Installed the copper washer in the detent and installed Amesoil in the transmission. Shifting is very precise now, not too much resistance, very positive throws from gear to gear. Much better than stock and the best mod I've done so far.

Last edited by meanjoe; Dec 27, 2013 at 10:50 AM. Reason: Spelling
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 09:43 AM
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May be shorter with the gripper ****, but with the stock **** and other shaft I think it is about the same as OEM if not even a tiny hair higher because of it's straight shaft.
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 09:52 AM
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I had replaced the stock shifter on my 2008 with the version of the MGW shifter that was sold in 2009 and it was a great improvement. When I saw that they had come out with a new lower box and an "improved" shifter I couldn't help myself and I ordered one. (They offered a $100 discount for sending back the old one.)

The installation went great until I found that I could hardly get it into reverse without using both hands. I called George for advice and found out that I got the "dummy of the day" award. I had forgotten completely about the reverse lockout solenoid and the battery was already disconnected for it's long winter's nap. When I fired up the car (to test the new HUD that I had installed - thanks GMPartsHouse) the reverse action was just as it should be.

I have to wait for spring to give it a real shakedown but just sitting in the garage (and making the proper vroom-vroom noises) it seems to feel even more positive and smother than the old one.

I love new toys!
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 10:03 AM
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One other thing:

I'm using the original style **** and I noticed that there were two tapped holes in the shaft that they supplied. One is 1/2 inch lower than the other.

My shift **** would only push down to the first hole but there was a molded in plastic stop in the ****. I had no idea why there was another hole but thinking that a 1/2 inch shorter throw had to be better..................

There was plenty of free space in the **** above the stop so I used a 5/8 inch end mill to ream out the center of the shift **** so it would slide down that additional 1/2 inch. It fits very well and I figured shorter had to be better because that is one of the reasons I bought it in the first place.
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Old Dec 27, 2013 | 10:37 AM
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Interesting. Is that with the **** screwed into the first hole on the shaft or reaming the **** and going into the second hole? I did not measure but it seemed to me that it was not really any shorter, though it would have been if I could have gone into the second hole.
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 09:42 AM
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Stock shaft/**** is 14 3/4"

MGW shaft/stock **** is 13 1/4"

OK, that would put the length with using the second hole at about 12 3/4" which should make a very slight difference but shorten the whole works by 2". A nice round number, anyway.

The thing to remember is the movement and the effort required seemed much smoother and positive than even the old style MGW shifter.

Smoother, more positive engagement, less effort (and maybe no buzzing - remember it's still sitting in the garage) will make for a very positive experience. It's too bad that GM tries so hard to save a buck - but then maybe most people don't care (or buy an automatic - )
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 02:49 PM
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Why is the word "K N O B" edited?!
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 04:29 PM
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I remember even the owner saying the stock **** was a hair higher than stock. At least a '12 GS stock. And by the pictures I've seen, it's definitely NOT lower than stock. Maybe with the threaded one, since the stock **** is a lot higher than a ball above the top of the shifter shaft. And effort is higher by simple physics (less leverage = higher effort)... and most owners admit the obvious, but said the higher effort wasn't an issue. If you make the shaft shorter than stock, then it'd probably be too much effort for most, so it makes sense to at least be the same.
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 01:00 AM
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I have to agree with that When I installed mine I was surprised it was not lower than it appeared. In talking with George on the phone I made mention of this fact that it seemed the same and he told me with the stock **** it is actually a hair higher. Interesting that others are measuring shorter. Whatever, still a great shifter.
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by dewilhite
I just finished doing install on my 2012 GS for MGW shifter and thought to post a few notes that might help others doing the same. First, this is a great shifter (I bought the whole package including the lower shifter box and gripper ****) and you just can't go wrong if you feel like replacing the very good OEM shifter. I can say the MGW parts are super quality, perform as advertised with much shorter throws and little higher effort but really feels just like rifle bolt between all the gears. No looseness at all. That said, I followed the MGW videos and it all went well for what they showed. I was worried about the console but that turned out to be pretty easy, just take your time and follow the video and it should be no problem.

An area they did not show in video is removal of the OEM lower shift box. After I got down to that point, the box was pretty much stuck tight. I couldn't get it to move in the least. I finally got out a big screwdriver and rubber mallet and started tapping around to see if that would break it loose. I got it loose at the front mounting point but the rear was stuck tight. I finally got in and just wrenched around on the back to finally pry it loose enough, although in doing so the metal washer on top of the rubber grommet came loose and dropped down into the torque tube. So, pry those loose first!

Anyway, after all that the OEM lower box finally came out without much additional trouble. MGW now sends along a very nice centering tool, so putting their box back in is a piece of cake.

Second recommendation is to watch on installing the shift bar out of the OEM lower box unit when it goes into the MGW lower box. I found out that the OEM bar had a very slight burr kicked out in the hole in the front of the bar, where the OEM unit has that little rod sticking down from the shifter. I felt it by sliding the shift bar back and forth in the MGW bushings. I took a little 320 paper to both sides of the hole and the bar slid back and forth smooth as silk!

After that assembly of all the rest went very well. I bought the MGW gripper ****, just to see if it might be nice upgrade and I can tell you it is also a very well made unit. Just the right size to me. They supply a grommet to attach the standard shift boot (after '08 the boot attached to the OEM **** with a 1/4-turn feature that won't mate with the gripper ****). I did finally realize you have to put the grommet all the way down inside the boot, completely through the chrome trim ring, and hold it in place by grasping under the grommet through the boot. You can them force the grommet down over the shifter shaft and hold it while you start threading the gripper **** down onto the shaft. Keep twisting the gripper **** down the threads while holding the grommet up against the bottom of the **** until the **** just won't go any farther and at that point you should find the boot is very nicely mated up against the new gripper ****. Position the **** with the shift pattern correctly oriented, tighten the lock screw until you can't get it any tighter, and the installation is complete and the new **** is very secure!

See picture for final installation on my car. I think the gripper **** is a great addition for a neat look over the OEM ****.
Thanks for the tips. I ordered the MGW for my '13 and have reviewed the installation videos.
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