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front shock bushing install help

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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 08:36 PM
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Default front shock bushing install help

Finally got around to replacing shocks.

Dummy me got lost and am not sure what bushing goes on top and what one goes on bottom.

Does the fat one that needs to go through the hole, go on top where you push it through the hole from the top, or do you push it through the hole from the bottom?

I have my top and bottom bushings confused.

And with that.. I can't really have anything to torque it with so how much is tight enough and not to tight? Should the bushing be squished pretty good or barely squished?

I have it so the top shock threaded rod part almost an inch of threads showing.

But.. I think I have one shock bushing right and one shock bushing wrong. I have the "tit" part pushed up from the bottom on one ( I think) and pushed through the top on the other (definite on that one).
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 11:33 PM
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I'm sorry but I can't see how you can confuse the bushings.

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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 11:45 PM
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Wasn't paying attention to what I took off and the used aftermarket Bilstein shocks had one bushing one way, and the other another way.

So...where does the long one go? Through top or through bottom?

Thanks.
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 04:38 PM
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Hello? Is this thing on?
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jbomx363
Wasn't paying attention to what I took off and the used aftermarket Bilstein shocks had one bushing one way, and the other another way.

So...where does the long one go? Through top or through bottom?

Thanks.
The front shocks only fit one way. The long piece (with the nut & bushing) goes on top, and the T goes on the bottom.
On the rear shocks, the bushing end (with the holes for the bolts on each side of the bushing )goes up top, and the U goes on the bottom.
The torque is 19 ft lbs for front upper front shock bolts. Upper Rear shock shock bolts is 22 ft lbs.
The bottom bolts for the front shocks to be torqued are 21 ft lbs.
If you don't have a torque wrench, just tighten as snug as you can without using any longer handle than the wrench or ratchet.

The bottom bolts torque for the bottom rear shock bolts are 107 ft-lbs.
This would be really tight using the ratchet or wrench.

I can offer no other explanation.
That's as simple as I can explain it.


Last edited by 4SUMERZ; Jan 4, 2014 at 05:32 PM.
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 07:21 PM
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Sorry.. I'm dappy I guess.

The bushings for Bilsteins are split. One bushing has a long piece to it and the other is a short bushing.

My very crude paint skills below. I'm looking for which way the long bushing should be. It's either number 1 or number 2. Round part is shock body.

I understand all the other stuff.

Thanks for helping out.
Attached Images  
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jbomx363
Sorry.. I'm dappy I guess.

The bushings for Bilsteins are split. One bushing has a long piece to it and the other is a short bushing.

My very crude paint skills below. I'm looking for which way the long bushing should be. It's either number 1 or number 2. Round part is shock body.

I understand all the other stuff.

Thanks for helping out.
By looking at the pics of the Bilstein shocks, I now can see why you were questioning the bushing positions, and I'm sorry that I misunderstood what you were asking. My humble apologies.
I would say, going by the OEM's, that the long goes on the bottom, fitting through the hole and the short one on top, washer then nut.

Here is a few links of a member changing to bilsteins
Maybe you can tell in the few pics that are shown, or send him a PM for that info.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...tallation.html

http://www.c5forum.com/forum/ubbthre...t&Number=25176


Last edited by 4SUMERZ; Jan 4, 2014 at 10:27 PM.
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 10:26 PM
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The long nose bushing goes in from the bottom with the tip up. This allows you to position the shock correctly in the mounting hole and then slip the top bushing over it. The nut bottoms on the shaft so snug it into place. I don't recall the torque setting.

Dan
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 10:45 PM
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Thank you both!!!
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Old Jan 5, 2014 | 08:28 AM
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"male" bushing goes on the bottom pointing up. There is no real torque spec because the wrench will not click repeatable on the bushing. Tighten down until the bushing is almost to the outside of the washer.

Randy
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Old Jan 5, 2014 | 10:51 AM
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A couple of small floor jacks or scissor screw jack , help push up the suspension . Hold things were they need to be .
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Old Jan 5, 2014 | 01:14 PM
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Thanks again for the help. Took all of 8 minutes to rectify my mistake.

Whole job was fairly easy. Took about 2hours to do all 4 shocks. Plus the time for yall to confirm my blunder.

I used the phadt instructions and took the front 4 a arm bolts off to pivot it out of the way to get the clearance needed. Much simpler to me than zip tying.

Again..thanks so much!
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