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I need to replace my starter and it appears the exhaust is in the way wedging in the starter but only by about 1/4 of an inch... It's not much but enough that I am out of wiggle room. Do I have to drop that section of the exhaust to remove and replace the starter??
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
2019 C6 of Year Winner (track prepared)
Originally Posted by webdzynes
I need to replace my starter and it appears the exhaust is in the way wedging in the starter but only by about 1/4 of an inch... It's not much but enough that I am out of wiggle room. Do I have to drop that section of the exhaust to remove and replace the starter??
Try loosening the exhaust both at the passenger side head and down below where it connects to the midpipe. Depending on your configuration that should give you enough room to get the starter out.
If you haven't done so already, make sure to disconnect the battery so you don't end up shorting out anything.
Try loosening the exhaust both at the passenger side head and down below where it connects to the midpipe. Depending on your configuration that should give you enough room to get the starter out.
Actually, thats partly the reason for the post. I started to loosen both the bolts up on the passenger side head and initially both started to turn fine but then, in both cases, seemed to turn but with noticeably more resistance. I didnt turn either bolt much, maybe 1/2 turn TOTAL for fear that these were either reverse threads or that the bolts themselves were spot welded up on top and I didnt want to break that weld. So, figured I better get details from 'those in the know' first...
Edit:----- i thought you were loosening from the head. Loosen from the head and the starter should fall right out.------- Not normal. What's happening is call electrolysis. Steel into aluminum. Who ever put your header bolts in didn't use anti-sieze or something hcomparable. If you have stock manifolds the same thing is happening. I would suggest using a mini crack torch to heat the head of the bolts up enough to break the bind. I dinto think a rust penatrant will work. Slowly loosen then tighten then loosen then tighten. If you don't have patience you WILL break the bolts off or pull the threads. And no they are not reverse thread. Good luck my friend. Be very patient. Make sure to put anti-sieze back on the bolts before reinstalling. FYI if you do have long tubes you can use a pry bar to flex the tube out of the way without damaging your exhaust. I've gotten mine out that way. (Edit)
Last edited by SILVERBULLET117; Feb 4, 2014 at 01:38 AM.
I understand that the GM intake is made in two halves and sonic welded together. I've heard that this welding isn't always the best causing air gaps allowing air bleed through from one port to the other. Have you seen any evidence of this?
stock header bolts have crap on the threads to keep them from coming out. They are a pain in the *** to remove. Ask anyone who has done longtube headers. The resistance is normal and I think some instructions say to "burn" off the residue with a torch after removal. Solvents don't seem to affect it.
Starter replacement - question on solenoid bolt size
I have managed to get my starter loose from the flywheel and is now hanging vertically. However, the power wires are still connected and I have to unbolt that blindly, reaching up and trying to take the bolt off and free the starter. Can anyone tell me what size bolt that is on the solenoid? Not much room to work so I dont even know if I can get a small wrench in there to loosen it...
(I dont know how you gearheads do this stuff - certainly not easy!)
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
2019 C6 of Year Winner (track prepared)
Originally Posted by webdzynes
I have managed to get my starter loose from the flywheel and is now hanging vertically. However, the power wires are still connected and I have to unbolt that blindly, reaching up and trying to take the bolt off and free the starter. Can anyone tell me what size bolt that is on the solenoid? Not much room to work so I dont even know if I can get a small wrench in there to loosen it...
(I dont know how you gearheads do this stuff - certainly not easy!)
10mm, but there's also a connector that needs to be removed by hand and you have to be careful with it as it can break very easily.
I need to replace my starter and it appears the exhaust is in the way wedging in the starter but only by about 1/4 of an inch... It's not much but enough that I am out of wiggle room.
I just did this to use a flywheel lock tool to replace the front seal.... it's really tight with the stock exhaust but with some short steel and wood pry bars the starter was convinced to come out. GM could have thought ahead and given us a little more clearance under there.