Fuel level sender solution P2066 P2068
02-10-2014, 10:35 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Fuel level sender solution P2066 P2068
I just finished my ordeal of replacing my passenger side fuel level sensor, and I made a video to help out any other poor soul who decides to attempt this job.
The main point I want to make here is that Techron or any fuel system cleaner CANNOT help with this problem once it gets past a certain point. The reason is that the contacts get completely worn off the float arm, and they just don't make contact with the rheostat any longer.
Whatever you do, don't do what I did, and run tank after tank of Techron, or double dose Techron. I think it might've cost me an engine rebuild. I had all kinds of metals come up on my oil test, and had bad compression and leakdown. Ended up doing a rebuild. Nothing else looked worn in my engine, but I guess the techron must have washed down my cylinders and messed up the ring seal. I can't be sure of this, but I don't have a better explanation. One thing is for sure: the techron did NOT fix my fuel gauge issues. See video.
Any questions, ask here or on youtube.
PS: I hate you GM!
The main point I want to make here is that Techron or any fuel system cleaner CANNOT help with this problem once it gets past a certain point. The reason is that the contacts get completely worn off the float arm, and they just don't make contact with the rheostat any longer.
Whatever you do, don't do what I did, and run tank after tank of Techron, or double dose Techron. I think it might've cost me an engine rebuild. I had all kinds of metals come up on my oil test, and had bad compression and leakdown. Ended up doing a rebuild. Nothing else looked worn in my engine, but I guess the techron must have washed down my cylinders and messed up the ring seal. I can't be sure of this, but I don't have a better explanation. One thing is for sure: the techron did NOT fix my fuel gauge issues. See video.
Any questions, ask here or on youtube.
PS: I hate you GM!
Last edited by steel_3d; 02-11-2014 at 02:37 AM.
02-10-2014, 05:30 PM
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Well... the pressure on the tabs is what it is, as set by the manufacturer. The structure of the rheostat though it's not smooth and linear, it's segmented, which I'd guess can cause more of a grating action than linear designs.
Not sure how much influence driving style has on it, road conditions, racing, etc. I might put more wear on it than others, more sloshing causing the float to move around more. Note: there's 130k miles on that sensor. But it started acting up a long long time ago, probably around 50k. Last week it finally gave up completely, forcing me to bite the bullet and replace it.
Not sure how much influence driving style has on it, road conditions, racing, etc. I might put more wear on it than others, more sloshing causing the float to move around more. Note: there's 130k miles on that sensor. But it started acting up a long long time ago, probably around 50k. Last week it finally gave up completely, forcing me to bite the bullet and replace it.
02-10-2014, 06:12 PM
#4
I bought the GM additive last week and they recommended using a full bottle at each oil change. In my case that is last thing in the fall and again mid July, 4500 miles between oil changes. I've never had a problem with only about 32K miles on the car. Just trying to head off problems that I see other people having.
After watching the repair video, it's pretty obvious that Techron or any other additive isn't going to repair worn out, inadequately designed junk.
After watching the repair video, it's pretty obvious that Techron or any other additive isn't going to repair worn out, inadequately designed junk.
Last edited by Keith Tedford; 02-11-2014 at 07:59 AM.
11-02-2014, 01:06 AM
#8
1st Gear
Member Since: Nov 2014
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Did you investigate alternatives for this Pinto like vehicle?
Anyone remember the pinto...
I'm thinking of just not fixing it, gm dealer has 4 weeks appointment wait. I think I've reached my limit with this crap.
So I'm wondering if there is some generic fuel gauge I can jam down there, and then disable the alarm, or just put up with it. Did you look into this, rather than suffer through this fix, which will fail again, I'm sure, considering the crappy design.
If not I guess I will continue, as I am now doing, measuring miles and keeping it fueled. After going through a clutch hydraulic repair (PREMATURE!!!) crap, of another non friendly maintenance system crap (dam near have to disassemble the freaking thing to get at the clutch hydraulic cylinders), it seems GM wants to die a death of a few (thousand, I wish) cuts. The dam car also has the active (crap) handling issues alarm/error, and even activates breaking in some low steering situations. GRRRR!!! I can't drive it like a corvette, i have to drive it like it is a pinto.
Read on to see the back-story on the fuel gauge issue: So I overfilled my tank (who knew there was a stupid two tank plastic crappola system in this car, I wonder if it will become deadly as the car ages-remember the pinto?), as I noticed the fuel was disappearing when I did a fill up. So it got extra filled up. Got on highway, fuel errors on dic, with empty, low fuel, then a few minutes later, bam,full no errors, did this for about a gallons or so, or 30 minutes, or whatever, then no errors, reads fuel correctly. This went on for a few months at fill up...
Last week, at speed, maybe 40mph, went toward an immediate uphill slope, minor bottoming out of front, and zoomed up this slope. Instantly empty and low fuel alarms, codes P2066, P2068 and P2066pd-whatever that is are now constant. Car couldn't handle a little g force..
More Ranting: so let me see, a performance vehicle, with a crappy clutch hydraulic design, and a maintenance nightmare to replace on top of that, a fuel delivery system where the simplest issue-measuring the tank fuel level, will cost you 700 to 1200 to repair?, and a drive-ability issue with some rinky dink driver interference system? Is this what I paid for? OMFG, come on, this thing was engineered, built STUPID!! No wonder everyone is buying Audi, BMW and Mercedes. Looks like I'll have to cave to the real leaders of the Auto Industry, sad deal...I'll have to break up with, and end the love affair with the corvette, I mean crappette. I have never had a car, where I can't measure the fuel in the tank, who ever thought it would get this stupid, its like GM is designing back to the past, regressing, not progressing.
I'm thinking of just not fixing it, gm dealer has 4 weeks appointment wait. I think I've reached my limit with this crap.
So I'm wondering if there is some generic fuel gauge I can jam down there, and then disable the alarm, or just put up with it. Did you look into this, rather than suffer through this fix, which will fail again, I'm sure, considering the crappy design.
If not I guess I will continue, as I am now doing, measuring miles and keeping it fueled. After going through a clutch hydraulic repair (PREMATURE!!!) crap, of another non friendly maintenance system crap (dam near have to disassemble the freaking thing to get at the clutch hydraulic cylinders), it seems GM wants to die a death of a few (thousand, I wish) cuts. The dam car also has the active (crap) handling issues alarm/error, and even activates breaking in some low steering situations. GRRRR!!! I can't drive it like a corvette, i have to drive it like it is a pinto.
Read on to see the back-story on the fuel gauge issue: So I overfilled my tank (who knew there was a stupid two tank plastic crappola system in this car, I wonder if it will become deadly as the car ages-remember the pinto?), as I noticed the fuel was disappearing when I did a fill up. So it got extra filled up. Got on highway, fuel errors on dic, with empty, low fuel, then a few minutes later, bam,full no errors, did this for about a gallons or so, or 30 minutes, or whatever, then no errors, reads fuel correctly. This went on for a few months at fill up...
Last week, at speed, maybe 40mph, went toward an immediate uphill slope, minor bottoming out of front, and zoomed up this slope. Instantly empty and low fuel alarms, codes P2066, P2068 and P2066pd-whatever that is are now constant. Car couldn't handle a little g force..
More Ranting: so let me see, a performance vehicle, with a crappy clutch hydraulic design, and a maintenance nightmare to replace on top of that, a fuel delivery system where the simplest issue-measuring the tank fuel level, will cost you 700 to 1200 to repair?, and a drive-ability issue with some rinky dink driver interference system? Is this what I paid for? OMFG, come on, this thing was engineered, built STUPID!! No wonder everyone is buying Audi, BMW and Mercedes. Looks like I'll have to cave to the real leaders of the Auto Industry, sad deal...I'll have to break up with, and end the love affair with the corvette, I mean crappette. I have never had a car, where I can't measure the fuel in the tank, who ever thought it would get this stupid, its like GM is designing back to the past, regressing, not progressing.
06-22-2018, 05:22 PM
#9
Pro
Today I tackled this daunting repair in hopes of addressing code P2068 and found this video extremely helpful. Here is how to repin the connector described at the six minute mark rather than soldering the new fuel level sender:
-You'll need to remove the fuel sending unit wire leads from the old connector and plug them into your new fuel pump's connector. The two smaller gauge wires on the left are the ones that have to come out. In the center of the back of that connector is a hole. Inserting a small jeweler's screwdriver allows you to release a lock which then allows the front of that wire connector shell to come off. From the front you insert that jeweler's screwdriver into the shell and release the tang holding those two wires in. The fuel sending unit wires then simply plug into the bottom of the new fuel pump connector. Double check to make sure they are secure. If not, you'll be doing this all over again for a "no gas gauge" problem.
Here is a photo of the problem, which on my 2007 Z06 started throwing the code in 2015. Techron did nothing but contaminate my oil (elevated lead). Considering the fragile design, replacing the sending unit in the other tank while this side is out (and therefore not fighting the crossover tube) may be prudent.
-You'll need to remove the fuel sending unit wire leads from the old connector and plug them into your new fuel pump's connector. The two smaller gauge wires on the left are the ones that have to come out. In the center of the back of that connector is a hole. Inserting a small jeweler's screwdriver allows you to release a lock which then allows the front of that wire connector shell to come off. From the front you insert that jeweler's screwdriver into the shell and release the tang holding those two wires in. The fuel sending unit wires then simply plug into the bottom of the new fuel pump connector. Double check to make sure they are secure. If not, you'll be doing this all over again for a "no gas gauge" problem.
Techron helps to slow down the swipper wear, hence keep the rheostat pad bars in a none corrosive state so them don't cause faster wear to the sender contract swiper, and may help if the problem is only corrosion on the bars preventing a good contract to the still good swiper arms.
But most of the time the problem is the aftermath of the bars corroding to begin with, which quickly wears out the swiper arms on the bar/float side that rub across the bars to get the needed reading, with the swiper arm worn down to numbs instead.
But most of the time the problem is the aftermath of the bars corroding to begin with, which quickly wears out the swiper arms on the bar/float side that rub across the bars to get the needed reading, with the swiper arm worn down to numbs instead.
Last edited by bjmsam; 06-23-2018 at 11:20 AM.