Clutch adjustment
Thread Starter
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1
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Clutch adjustment
The clutch pedal on my c6 would only come to about the height of the foot stop. The car drove great and would shift fine, but the pedal was not making contact with the upper limit switch and therefore setting code P0833. I manually pulled the pedal up to the switch and it now goes to the switch each time it is depressed.
The clutch release point has gone from about 2 inches from the floor to about 6 inches from the floor. I don't understand how it could release at 2inches and change to 6 inches by manually raising the pedal.
I know that the car has an automatic clutch adjustment. Could this cause the change and will the release point get lower as I drive the car? The release is too high for my taste. Is there a way to manually adjust the release point.
Thanks
The clutch release point has gone from about 2 inches from the floor to about 6 inches from the floor. I don't understand how it could release at 2inches and change to 6 inches by manually raising the pedal.
I know that the car has an automatic clutch adjustment. Could this cause the change and will the release point get lower as I drive the car? The release is too high for my taste. Is there a way to manually adjust the release point.
Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,629
Yep, sounds like the clutch return spring broke a leg off it.
But once you replace the clutch pedal return spring, pull the cap on your clutch reservoir and take a look at the color of the clutch fluid.
If its anything but clear, then at least time to do the Ranger method of clutch fluid changes, of if beyond black with a lot of black pieces in the fluid, then may be time to bite the bullet and have GM do a power clutch fluid change via the slave cylinder instead.
The ranger method will work after many, many tank fluid changes and a couple quarts of dot 4, where as the GM method of power flushing through the slave cylinder flushes all the old fluid out one shot instead.
Note, the bleed valve on the slave cylinder is no walk in the part to get at. Some manage to do such with just reaching up to get to the top of the bell housing where the slave cylinder bleeder valve in located, while most end up pulling the tunnel plate to get it that way instead.
But once you replace the clutch pedal return spring, pull the cap on your clutch reservoir and take a look at the color of the clutch fluid.
If its anything but clear, then at least time to do the Ranger method of clutch fluid changes, of if beyond black with a lot of black pieces in the fluid, then may be time to bite the bullet and have GM do a power clutch fluid change via the slave cylinder instead.
The ranger method will work after many, many tank fluid changes and a couple quarts of dot 4, where as the GM method of power flushing through the slave cylinder flushes all the old fluid out one shot instead.
Note, the bleed valve on the slave cylinder is no walk in the part to get at. Some manage to do such with just reaching up to get to the top of the bell housing where the slave cylinder bleeder valve in located, while most end up pulling the tunnel plate to get it that way instead.
