160 Thermostat Question
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 570
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From: Fayetteville NC
160 Thermostat Question
Of the people running the 160 thermostat in their car, what is the average coolant temp. Reason I ask is I bought one to be installed in my car while the engine was worked on and I don't think the ******* put it in. Thanks 
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,104
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
On my '08 it depends on the speed and air temp. Rush hour bumper to bumper 0-25-0 and 110*, it'll be 220+. Highway speeds in 60* air, it'll be 170.
The sensor is not close to the stat, so you'll never see 160.
The sensor is not close to the stat, so you'll never see 160.
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 64
From: Prescott AZ Gilbert AZ
Dewitt radiator and often hits 220 on the track.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 5
From: Canton MI
I do not have a ton of driving with the thermostat(winter sucks), but on the highway I see 167-172. Running a vararam as well, which does help with IAT's.
At the track back in November(45 degrees) it stuck right at 200 while hot lapping. That's when my fans turn on as well.
At the track back in November(45 degrees) it stuck right at 200 while hot lapping. That's when my fans turn on as well.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 28
From: O'Fallon IL
I see about 185-87 while cruising at highway speeds. Stop n go I see 195-201. It just takes a while longer to get to the 180+ with the 160* thermostat, and once up to speed the temps always stay around the 180s anyways.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 635
Likes: 0
From: McMinnville TN
168-175 highway driving. Stop and go will get 200-205 but will cool right back off as soon as you get moving again.
Remember, the 160 t-stat will not prevent the car from getting 200 with no airflow over the radiator, but it will allow it to cool to a lower temp when driving.
Remember, the 160 t-stat will not prevent the car from getting 200 with no airflow over the radiator, but it will allow it to cool to a lower temp when driving.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,120
Likes: 119
St. Jude Donor '10
The GM factory gauge is wildly inaccurate. The DIC that shows the temp reading is quite a bit more accurate. The underlying issue may be related to either old coolant (yes it can degrade) or possible air still in the system. One of the most likely places for this to happen is on the rear of the heads near the block off caps.
We are working on our own custom vapor collection kit to help alleviate this issue and keep the cooling from cyl to cyl and side to side more consistent and on average with what your t stat is rated for.
We are working on our own custom vapor collection kit to help alleviate this issue and keep the cooling from cyl to cyl and side to side more consistent and on average with what your t stat is rated for.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 11,549
Likes: 27
From: Southampton NJ
from the 373 gears and a4 trans, i run a card board radiator shield in the winter to get in the 160s range for heat, got heated seats but the windows will steam, it will take 30 miles for the oil to reach 180 in the mild air. at the track it will reach 205 after a few hot laps it been holding fine for 9 years now, i did those changes the first 6 months I have it settup that the oil water and trans all work independently, the water is the radiator the trans is its own cooler bypassing the radiator and the oil is on its own no oil cooler
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 14,999
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From: Bay Area Ca.
I can see it for track use and 3000 rpm is fairly high for street cruising. I run 4:10's with MN6 and at 80 I think I am just into 2000 rpm and with the 180* stat I'll see 189 coolant temp with oil around low 220's.
When I ran the 160* stat my concern was oil temps not getting much above 210. This is just with normal cruising.
I usually keep it under 10 mph over freeway posted unless I am doing one of my famous very early morning runs of a couple hundred miles at 90+ avg.
This means 100+ for extended periods.
No track time and 99% of the time I am just cruising but going through the gears with some gusto and the 160* was just to cool. The 180* when higher rpm's are in use is almost perfect. For me higher rpm means cruising 2000-2200 to get the water pump working more.
Just seems rather cool for to long on the street.
Track I understand.
Interesting nevertheless, thanks for responding.
When I ran the 160* stat my concern was oil temps not getting much above 210. This is just with normal cruising.
I usually keep it under 10 mph over freeway posted unless I am doing one of my famous very early morning runs of a couple hundred miles at 90+ avg.
This means 100+ for extended periods.
No track time and 99% of the time I am just cruising but going through the gears with some gusto and the 160* was just to cool. The 180* when higher rpm's are in use is almost perfect. For me higher rpm means cruising 2000-2200 to get the water pump working more.
Just seems rather cool for to long on the street.
Track I understand.
Interesting nevertheless, thanks for responding.
Last edited by Boomer111; Feb 24, 2014 at 10:00 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 11,549
Likes: 27
From: Southampton NJ
I can see it for track use and 3000 rpm is fairly high for street cruising. I run 4:10's with MN6 and at 80 I think I am just into 2000 rpm and with the 180* stat I'll see 189 coolant temp with oil around low 220's.
When I ran the 160* stat my concern was oil temps not getting much above 210. This is just with normal cruising.
I usually keep it under 10 mph over freeway posted unless I am doing one of my famous very early morning runs of a couple hundred miles at 90+ avg.
This means 100+ for extended periods.
No track time and 99% of the time I am just cruising but going through the gears with some gusto and the 160* was just to cool. The 180* when higher rpm's are in use is almost perfect. For me higher rpm means cruising 2000-2200 to get the water pump working more.
Just seems rather cool for to long on the street.
Track I understand.
Interesting nevertheless, thanks for responding.
When I ran the 160* stat my concern was oil temps not getting much above 210. This is just with normal cruising.
I usually keep it under 10 mph over freeway posted unless I am doing one of my famous very early morning runs of a couple hundred miles at 90+ avg.
This means 100+ for extended periods.
No track time and 99% of the time I am just cruising but going through the gears with some gusto and the 160* was just to cool. The 180* when higher rpm's are in use is almost perfect. For me higher rpm means cruising 2000-2200 to get the water pump working more.
Just seems rather cool for to long on the street.
Track I understand.
Interesting nevertheless, thanks for responding.
old school heat
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,120
Likes: 119
St. Jude Donor '10
Engine oil also removes heat from the engine so the cooler it is the better it can do its job. It wears multiple hats unlike coolant. I am not sure what the specific operating temperature for every manuf oil is, but just like trans fluid should be kept in a specific "zone".
There is a reason why there is an engine oil cooler included on alot of stock vettes. How cool is too cool then?
There is a reason why there is an engine oil cooler included on alot of stock vettes. How cool is too cool then?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,120
Likes: 119
St. Jude Donor '10
187* which will normally make operating temps hover around 199-203 with a stock computer. Even if you turn the fans on sooner or for a higher PWM, the thermostat will still regulate the temperature of the coolant and you are possibly just shortening the life of the fan motor/s. I would skip the 180 and go straight to a 160. We have seen the avg temps around 175-182 with one. Just because it says 160 doesnt mean it will regulate at that temp. Other things play into that range of course. They are the same price also.