Steering rack hydraulic line removal question
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Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Redmond OR
Steering rack hydraulic line removal question
I'm in the middle of removing the steering rack so that I can swap my wobbly crank pulley. I've disconnected everything but the hydraulic lines. I'm not entirely sure which lines to disconnect and even less sure of how to get them to turn. They're a little rusty and there's almost zero access. I have the appropriate size flare nut wrench but I can't hardly get it in place much less turn it. I pulled the alternator so I could see what I'm doing but wow is that a rat's nest of hard lines. I've soaked the fittings in PB Blaster several times. Is it ok to use a torch on these fittings? Do I need crow's foot flare nut wrenches, 18mm? Anyone have a photo?
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Lakeville, MA
St. Jude Donor '10
Use the flare wrench if you can so you don't strip the fittings. The one on the top in your picture is the one I usually remove first then you'll have a bit more room to swing the wrench on the other one. Once they break free you can spin them with your fingers.
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Forney TX
I use a flare nut wrench and have a little block that I set against the frame to gain leverage against the wrench with my 30" pry bar. Do not use heat on that to solve your problems or you'll end up with more to solve.
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From: Redmond OR
I was able to crack them loose with a regular open end 18mm wrench. Then, in painfully awkward positions I was able to loosen them the rest of the way with a pliers, 5 degrees at a time. Then the rest of the way by hand. What a PITA
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From: Redmond OR
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From: Apache Junction AZ
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From: Redmond OR
It's not going to move unless you get in the car, turn on the ignition, and move the wheel. The column isn't splined, you would have to turn it 180° to mess it up. Don't worry about it.
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From: Oshawa, Ontario