I hope nothing melted.
OBX headers/xpipe
Safety Car
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3,582
Likes: 46
From: va
Between the service traction system thing and the no start, it sounds like something shorted out...
If it turns out your ecu is fried, Chuck COW (corvettes of Westchester) stocks used ecus and might be able to set it up for your car so you dont have to get the dealership to use a tech2 on it.
Good luck!
If it turns out your ecu is fried, Chuck COW (corvettes of Westchester) stocks used ecus and might be able to set it up for your car so you dont have to get the dealership to use a tech2 on it.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: VA Beach VA
Psxer989 helped me out a bit as he had a similar problem.
I jumped the starter solenoid at the fusebox, with starter button/clutch depressed. Cranks over and over but no start.
Pretty sure I'm not getting fuel or spark.
Computer?
Bad ground?
Close to giving up and towing to the dealer on Monday.
So much for saving money installing the headers myself lol
I jumped the starter solenoid at the fusebox, with starter button/clutch depressed. Cranks over and over but no start.
Pretty sure I'm not getting fuel or spark.
Computer?
Bad ground?
Close to giving up and towing to the dealer on Monday.
So much for saving money installing the headers myself lol
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 28
From: O'Fallon IL
Did you check all the obvious stuff, like connections, fuses, relays, including the ones by the passenger floorboards? Disconnect a spark plug cable and attempt to start and listen or darken the area and watch for the sparks. The connection for the coil packs were they ever disconnected? Any codes other than possibly the rear o2 sensors? Use a Circuit tester with the ignition switch on, not just the accessories and check all the fuses that should have power on both sides unless you pull one by one and looked at them closely. Just trying to help.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: VA Beach VA
Yup, checked all that. Again to be clear, my car started up fine twice. Then I drove it with the alternator wire hook up wrong and not charging the battery. Battery drained, and car died.
I push to start, clutch down, dash lights up, then dies for 20 secs, repeatly. I can already say, zero power is getting to the solenoid, and I don't hear the fuel pump engaging. The starting system plain out doesn't work.
New battery, checks good
Starter is good.
Could I have triggered the car to go into full lockout/immobilization/theft?
Looked under the car for any possible burnt wires.
Checked all fuses, relays in both panels.
HAS TO BE: some wire came loose, got burnt, or BCM/ECM took a dump.
Especially tricky because of the fact that it started up, drained the battery to the point of a bad cell, now with brand new tested good battery.... NOTHING
I push to start, clutch down, dash lights up, then dies for 20 secs, repeatly. I can already say, zero power is getting to the solenoid, and I don't hear the fuel pump engaging. The starting system plain out doesn't work.
New battery, checks good
Starter is good.
Could I have triggered the car to go into full lockout/immobilization/theft?
Looked under the car for any possible burnt wires.
Checked all fuses, relays in both panels.
HAS TO BE: some wire came loose, got burnt, or BCM/ECM took a dump.
Especially tricky because of the fact that it started up, drained the battery to the point of a bad cell, now with brand new tested good battery.... NOTHING
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 28
From: O'Fallon IL
Yup, checked all that. Again to be clear, my car started up fine twice. Then I drove it with the alternator wire hook up wrong and not charging the battery. Battery drained, and car died.
I push to start, clutch down, dash lights up, then dies for 20 secs, repeatly. I can already say, zero power is getting to the solenoid, and I don't hear the fuel pump engaging. The starting system plain out doesn't work.
New battery, checks good
Starter is good.
Could I have triggered the car to go into full lockout/immobilization/theft?
Looked under the car for any possible burnt wires.
Checked all fuses, relays in both panels.
HAS TO BE: some wire came loose, got burnt, or BCM/ECM took a dump.
Especially tricky because of the fact that it started up, drained the battery to the point of a bad cell, now with brand new tested good battery.... NOTHING
I push to start, clutch down, dash lights up, then dies for 20 secs, repeatly. I can already say, zero power is getting to the solenoid, and I don't hear the fuel pump engaging. The starting system plain out doesn't work.
New battery, checks good
Starter is good.
Could I have triggered the car to go into full lockout/immobilization/theft?
Looked under the car for any possible burnt wires.
Checked all fuses, relays in both panels.
HAS TO BE: some wire came loose, got burnt, or BCM/ECM took a dump.
Especially tricky because of the fact that it started up, drained the battery to the point of a bad cell, now with brand new tested good battery.... NOTHING
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: VA Beach VA
How did you manage to connect the alternator wire wrong? To me it only goes one way or in one place. You must have fried something, but I cant picture the alternator connected wrong or you meant not hooked up at all? I think that you must have triggered some kind of limp mode since you went completely dry on the battery. Try to clear any codes with a scanner, even if it doesn't show one or the cel is on.
Now, everything is wired correctly, but the ignition isn't sending power to the solenoid, or turning on fuel etc.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: VA Beach VA
I bought a lil $55 obd2 reader at auto zone, but it said "no link". Is that because I was in accessory mode and the car isn't running? Or is that "no link" a really bad sign.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,509
Likes: 240
From: Coconut Creek FL
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: VA Beach VA
Yup, I googled it. I was looking at g104, and what that ground goes to-seems to be all my problems.
How many wires do u guys have going to 104 and 106(engine block)?
One big, and a little one?
I can say almost for sure that one of those is my issue. Gonna clean them both up tomorrow. I did remove both of those grounds to take the manifold out.
Could've swore when I wiggled g104, I started to hear the fuel system kick in.
How many wires do u guys have going to 104 and 106(engine block)?
One big, and a little one?
I can say almost for sure that one of those is my issue. Gonna clean them both up tomorrow. I did remove both of those grounds to take the manifold out.
Could've swore when I wiggled g104, I started to hear the fuel system kick in.
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 11,792
Likes: 255
From: Ossining New York
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
I'm here. Give me a call!
Between the service traction system thing and the no start, it sounds like something shorted out...
If it turns out your ecu is fried, Chuck COW (corvettes of Westchester) stocks used ecus and might be able to set it up for your car so you dont have to get the dealership to use a tech2 on it.
Good luck!
If it turns out your ecu is fried, Chuck COW (corvettes of Westchester) stocks used ecus and might be able to set it up for your car so you dont have to get the dealership to use a tech2 on it.
Good luck!
Yes, I got a bunch. Call any time 914-332-0049
Chuck CoW
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,591
Likes: 94
From: Warwick Rhode Island
1 how much to send you my ecu and have you put a tune in it, and will it still pass inspection and not show the cel?
2 would i be better off getting another ecu (from you) and just use the one i have now when i need it inspected?
How much for option 1 or 2?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: VA Beach VA
Back on the road!
Well,
I took her to the dealer yesterday. According to them, i fried the ECU. New ECU plus labor was $650-OUCH.
But, on the bright side, the headers sound great. Not too much difference at idle, but when i open it up-sounds niiiice.
Tomorrow I'm removing the X-PIPE and collectors and getting it all welding together to make one piece, to eliminate using a few clamps and mainly to get rid of the tiny tick tick tick exhaust leak i have.
You guys were right, those clamps SUCK. Once i reinstall it, I'm gonna break the tack weld on the stock x-pipe and use the factory clamp to attach to the muffler.
Thanks for the help everyone.
I took her to the dealer yesterday. According to them, i fried the ECU. New ECU plus labor was $650-OUCH.
But, on the bright side, the headers sound great. Not too much difference at idle, but when i open it up-sounds niiiice.
Tomorrow I'm removing the X-PIPE and collectors and getting it all welding together to make one piece, to eliminate using a few clamps and mainly to get rid of the tiny tick tick tick exhaust leak i have.
You guys were right, those clamps SUCK. Once i reinstall it, I'm gonna break the tack weld on the stock x-pipe and use the factory clamp to attach to the muffler.
Thanks for the help everyone.
