T1 End Links and Bars
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 456
Likes: 114
From: Florida
T1 End Links and Bars
I purchased a set of T1 bars and end links, slight mistake made. T1 bars utilize 0.500" diameter holes and the factory front control arms are 12mm holes. I am not willing to modify my Vette by enlarging the holes, in the event I want to return it back to stock configuration. I failed to see the difference in hole diameter when researching and want to post this for those considering T1 bars. Now I am stuck paying a 35% restocking fee on the end links, purchased at a dealership.
For those that have the T1 setup: I am looking at purchasing 12mm end links for the front and having one of the rod ends bored to 0.500". Has anyone done this? QA1 sells 12mm end links but is not willing to mix U.S. and metric, so I am going to use a machine shop.
For those that have the T1 setup: I am looking at purchasing 12mm end links for the front and having one of the rod ends bored to 0.500". Has anyone done this? QA1 sells 12mm end links but is not willing to mix U.S. and metric, so I am going to use a machine shop.
Last edited by Motor Fast; May 21, 2014 at 09:02 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 34
^^^Curiosity from an inquiring mind!
Anything is possible! Although enlargement is < .015" on the side. But......
Did you check cost for enlarging the hardened rod end's bore?
If the machine shop agreed to do the job, are you a bit concern with the possible rod end could suffer internal contamination, resulted from the slurry produced during the machining process?
Anything is possible! Although enlargement is < .015" on the side. But......
Did you check cost for enlarging the hardened rod end's bore?
If the machine shop agreed to do the job, are you a bit concern with the possible rod end could suffer internal contamination, resulted from the slurry produced during the machining process?
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 86
From: San Diego CA.
^^^Curiosity from an inquiring mind!
Anything is possible! Although enlargement is < .015" on the side. But......
Did you check cost for enlarging the hardened rod end's bore?
If the machine shop agreed to do the job, are you a bit concern with the possible rod end could suffer internal contamination, resulted from the slurry produced during the machining process?
Anything is possible! Although enlargement is < .015" on the side. But......
Did you check cost for enlarging the hardened rod end's bore?
If the machine shop agreed to do the job, are you a bit concern with the possible rod end could suffer internal contamination, resulted from the slurry produced during the machining process?
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 34
I've learned through the years that I never return anything to stock. I'd drill the hole larger in a heart beat. IF you ever return to stock, use an insert in the original hole to fill in the difference. Inserts are used all the time to decrease hole size. I think your overthinking it brother.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 86
From: San Diego CA.
[QUOTE=victorf;1586968400]^^^The part highlighted in red - you referring that to me?[/QUOT
Yep. Your talking about spending big money machining parts and customizing something that really isn't that big of a deal, IMO. I have big sway bars on my 13 grand sport. It's way better than stock. Returning the car back to stock sway bars when I buy a C7 in the future wont buy me a thing. Selling used sway bars is a pain. I use Hotchkis products. If I had to enlarge the mounting hole I would. No big deal. The extra stiffness and less body roll on the track is worth every effort. Sorry if I offended you. Not my intention.
Yep. Your talking about spending big money machining parts and customizing something that really isn't that big of a deal, IMO. I have big sway bars on my 13 grand sport. It's way better than stock. Returning the car back to stock sway bars when I buy a C7 in the future wont buy me a thing. Selling used sway bars is a pain. I use Hotchkis products. If I had to enlarge the mounting hole I would. No big deal. The extra stiffness and less body roll on the track is worth every effort. Sorry if I offended you. Not my intention.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 34
[QUOTE=vetten76;1586968724]
Hello!!!!
Did you read OP's post? Which I also quoted with my questions regarding his intentions?
****
You have clearly shown your comprehension before going off with your comments! Along with going off just "TALKING TRASH"! Who cares about what you had done or gonna do other than you?
****
But basing on your rants, I do know you have an shallow understanding about enlarging an existing hole using drill bit to remove .014" on the side, for the finale bore size of .5" from an existing 12mm x .03937" = .4724" .
In addition - installing an insert with an wall thickness of < .014" to compensate. Do you comprehend what it is involved, to prep the existing hole and machine the required insert with the thin wall thickness?
Like everything......Talk is cheap!!
^^^The part highlighted in red - you referring that to me?[/QUOT
Yep. Your talking about spending big money machining parts and customizing something that really isn't that big of a deal, IMO. I have big sway bars on my 13 grand sport. It's way better than stock. Returning the car back to stock sway bars when I buy a C7 in the future wont buy me a thing. Selling used sway bars is a pain. I use Hotchkis products. If I had to enlarge the mounting hole I would. No big deal. The extra stiffness and less body roll on the track is worth every effort. Sorry if I offended you. Not my intention.
Yep. Your talking about spending big money machining parts and customizing something that really isn't that big of a deal, IMO. I have big sway bars on my 13 grand sport. It's way better than stock. Returning the car back to stock sway bars when I buy a C7 in the future wont buy me a thing. Selling used sway bars is a pain. I use Hotchkis products. If I had to enlarge the mounting hole I would. No big deal. The extra stiffness and less body roll on the track is worth every effort. Sorry if I offended you. Not my intention.
Did you read OP's post? Which I also quoted with my questions regarding his intentions?
****
You have clearly shown your comprehension before going off with your comments! Along with going off just "TALKING TRASH"! Who cares about what you had done or gonna do other than you?
****
But basing on your rants, I do know you have an shallow understanding about enlarging an existing hole using drill bit to remove .014" on the side, for the finale bore size of .5" from an existing 12mm x .03937" = .4724" .
In addition - installing an insert with an wall thickness of < .014" to compensate. Do you comprehend what it is involved, to prep the existing hole and machine the required insert with the thin wall thickness?
Like everything......Talk is cheap!!
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,502
Likes: 462
From: Southern Utah
I have to agree with the overthinking comment. This is not a sophisticated machining problem, it's a simple matter of drilling a hole bigger or deciding not to. Boring is an operation that is far more precise than what is required here. The attachment points for a sway bar and its' end links are nothing more than bolts going through holes and being tightened up with a nut on the other end. There is no need for high precision...it's meatball work. If measured with a micrometer, there is lots of play in the oem end links holes versus the bolts that go through them also.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 86
From: San Diego CA.
[QUOTE=victorf;1586969097]
Hello!!!!
Did you read OP's post? Which I also quoted with my questions regarding his intentions?
****
You have clearly shown your comprehension before going off with your comments! Along with going off just "TALKING TRASH"! Who cares about what you had done or gonna do other than you?
****
But basing on your rants, I do know you have an shallow understanding about enlarging an existing hole using drill bit to remove .014" on the side, for the finale bore size of .5" from an existing 12mm x .03937" = .4724" .
In addition - installing an insert with an wall thickness of < .014" to compensate. Do you comprehend what it is involved, to prep the existing hole and machine the required insert with the thin wall thickness?
Like everything......Talk is cheap!!
Wow. You sure told me. Actually I was responding on my small iPhone and didn't catch you were not the original op. Yep. I made a mistake. You really made it personal against me. I even apologized ahead of time if I had offended you, thinking you were the op. You are way smarter than I. I would have simply gone to my good hardware store and bought an insert out of the huge selection of ready made inserts that was close in size, then do what I needed to do to make it work. You are really good with decimals, mm, and perfection. It's just a mounting hole with a nut and bolt. I didn't intend on a rant. You win. You are the better dude.
Hello!!!!
Did you read OP's post? Which I also quoted with my questions regarding his intentions?
****
You have clearly shown your comprehension before going off with your comments! Along with going off just "TALKING TRASH"! Who cares about what you had done or gonna do other than you?
****
But basing on your rants, I do know you have an shallow understanding about enlarging an existing hole using drill bit to remove .014" on the side, for the finale bore size of .5" from an existing 12mm x .03937" = .4724" .
In addition - installing an insert with an wall thickness of < .014" to compensate. Do you comprehend what it is involved, to prep the existing hole and machine the required insert with the thin wall thickness?
Like everything......Talk is cheap!!
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Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 86
From: San Diego CA.
[QUOTE=cclive;1586969779]I have to agree with the overthinking comment. This is not a sophisticated machining problem, it's a simple matter of drilling a hole bigger or deciding not to. Boring is an operation that is far more precise than what is required here. The attachment points for a sway bar and its' end links are nothing more than bolts going through holes and being tightened up with a nut on the other end. There is no need for high precision...it's meatball work. If measured with a micrometer, there is lots of play in the oem end links holes versus the bolts that go through them also.[/QUOTE
Lol. I read this after I finished my last reply. Funny. We were thinking along the same lines. I may not be a trained mechanic, but I have fixed many things through the years with a rat tail file and a little common sense.
[/QUOTELol. I read this after I finished my last reply. Funny. We were thinking along the same lines. I may not be a trained mechanic, but I have fixed many things through the years with a rat tail file and a little common sense.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 456
Likes: 114
From: Florida
I certainly have no intentions on returning the car to stock configuration, but it's how I like to modify. I am looking at two options: One is like I mentioned above. I am waiting to here back from a machine shop about machining a 12mm rod out to 0.500". The other option is to use a 5/8" bore and use a sleeve to bring it down to a 12mm. I am not sure if the sleeve is the best idea though.
I will post my end results for the benefit of others.
I will post my end results for the benefit of others.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 456
Likes: 114
From: Florida
^^^Curiosity from an inquiring mind!
Anything is possible! Although enlargement is < .015" on the side. But......
Did you check cost for enlarging the hardened rod end's bore?
If the machine shop agreed to do the job, are you a bit concern with the possible rod end could suffer internal contamination, resulted from the slurry produced during the machining process?
Anything is possible! Although enlargement is < .015" on the side. But......
Did you check cost for enlarging the hardened rod end's bore?
If the machine shop agreed to do the job, are you a bit concern with the possible rod end could suffer internal contamination, resulted from the slurry produced during the machining process?
It's certainly not the way I prefer to do it but I am checking with a couple machinist right now. Another option I thought about, but had forgotten, is buying a 12mm rod end and a 0.500" rod end and having the mating threads be very small. I could then have them rethreaded to fit each other, U.S. or metric.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 456
Likes: 114
From: Florida
I have to agree with the overthinking comment. This is not a sophisticated machining problem, it's a simple matter of drilling a hole bigger or deciding not to. Boring is an operation that is far more precise than what is required here. The attachment points for a sway bar and its' end links are nothing more than bolts going through holes and being tightened up with a nut on the other end. There is no need for high precision...it's meatball work. If measured with a micrometer, there is lots of play in the oem end links holes versus the bolts that go through them also.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 86
From: San Diego CA.
The end link clunk is a real problem. I've had one track day at Fontana with my new swaybars, and I have the clunk in the front. I use the stock end links because their cheap. Are there any aftermarket end links that last longer than stock or ones that don't wear out and clunk?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,282
Likes: 552
From: Pittsburgh PA
St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,827
Likes: 301
From: Tucson Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
I am returning to the cheaper OEM style end links from the more expensive heim joint type as the more expensive ones eventually start clunking also. A friend is trying a Moog replacement (K750136) which is beefy and has a grease fitting. I plan on trying them also.
As you say I had to ream out all the holes to accept the larger bolts. I just bought a 1 ft. brass tube from Ace hardware (stock #139) that has the right I.D. and O.D. 1/2" on the outside and 12mm+ on the inside. I will cut it into the proper lengths sleeves to allow a proper fit.
As you say I had to ream out all the holes to accept the larger bolts. I just bought a 1 ft. brass tube from Ace hardware (stock #139) that has the right I.D. and O.D. 1/2" on the outside and 12mm+ on the inside. I will cut it into the proper lengths sleeves to allow a proper fit.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,827
Likes: 301
From: Tucson Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,502
Likes: 462
From: Southern Utah
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 86
From: San Diego CA.
I have a Moog pair on the shelve. These were for my last C5. I bought them on Amazon too. Unfortunately, I striped one of the zerk fittings right out of the box! I crashed my C5 before I needed them. They do look beefy. I've tried everything to fix that zerk fitting. Maybe I greese them up the best I can and JB Weld the hole? Lol.. Oops...
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,502
Likes: 462
From: Southern Utah
I have a Moog pair on the shelve. These were for my last C5. I bought them on Amazon too. Unfortunately, I striped one of the zerk fittings right out of the box! I crashed my C5 before I needed them. They do look beefy. I've tried everything to fix that zerk fitting. Maybe I greese them up the best I can and JB Weld the hole? Lol.. Oops...