I pulled my high mile LS2 and replaced with a LQ9. Anyway, everything is complete, engage the clutch , push the start button and the dash goes black for a few seconds, all gauges stay in place, the light on the start button turns off then a few seconds later all the gauges come on and the system checks come on saying low fuel, service fuel system service traction control... I know other people have had the problem after searching through threads the past week. I have taken the battery to the retailer and had it tested and it was good. I have tracked down every body ground, sanded the contacts and put them back on. I dropped and rewired my starter probably 8 times just to make sure I had it properly wired and a good ground with the engine. I tried adding two ground cables which I wired one from the ground point under the battery box to the engine block where the starter grounds and the other on the other side of the block to the body ground near the front reservoir tank. I am not good with electronics but when I jump 87 to 30 on the #43 relay (crank) the engine will turn over but the fuel pump doesn't sound like its coming on. On relay #55, when I try to jump 87 to 30 I get a spark which made me think there was a short but I put a voltage meter to #30 and didn't get a reading? I swapped the relays with good relays from another vehicle and that didn't work either. Did I mention I replaced the battery terminals with new terminals to make sure I was getting good contact because the GM terminals blow. I haven't put a column lock bypass on the car but I heard that won't stop the car from starting just keep it from driving. Oh and the steering is not locked up. HELP PLEASE?!!!

 

Rechecked all the fuses in the car and found the fuel pump fuse blown, assumed from when I jumped the relay. Replaced it and attempted to start but it still didn't work. I then thought maybe it was related to the aftermarket stereo which seemed to be on the same line the FOB was on when I was checking fuses. So I removed the stereo and put the factory stereo back in. It still didn't work. I went through and tidied up all the wires in the console leading to the aftermarket stereo. I made sure there were no shorts in the wires. Put it all back together and still no change in status.

When I jump the car, after the car cycles and I am able to get to the voltage reading on the dash, it would read 13.1v. When I push in on the clutch and step on the brake it would drop to 12.7V just before going completely black again when I push the start button. So Voltage wise from what I am tracking, it should start.

My guess is that the cars security system is keeping it from starting. Oh so I went to the back, put the key in the trunk key hole - turn 5 times, put the car in FOB learn mode. It says ready to learn FOB #4. I place my only FOB into the glove and it immediately says "known FOB". So it is definitely tracking the FOB.

 

This is what happens when you try to start it.

 

A knowledgeable person needs to weigh in here. Are you a mechanic?
Who did the swap? I know you must do a crank relearn for the original engine but I'm not sure if that even applies here.

 

I'm not a mechanic. Starting to wonder at what point that line gets drawn. LOL I did the swap, with help from some other very knowledgeable friends. I believe you have to get the car to start before the crank relearn is done, I could be wrong. I will research some more in the mean time. Thanks

 

Yea, it has to start before you can do the CKP variation learn procedure. I can't even get her to crank on her own, nor can I get a scan tool to connect with the car to get a P0336 code if that was a problem. I may become one at some time but right now, no dice.

 

ttt. Someone help this guy out.

 

Never done an engine swap on a Vette. However, I have run into this symptom a few times on my 05 and it usually relates to a battery going dead or a loose connection to the battery. I mean, it is the exact same thing, except for the engine swap. It looks like there is power going to the main harness but not enough to start the car. Or, since you did an engine swap, if I remember, the PCM has to be synced up with the engine. It would be like you going and buying a new PCM and just dropping it in. It wont work. This may be the same thing but just reversed...if that makes sense.

 

So I couldnt just stop because of the lack of info, so I trolled over all the ground point diagrams for the car. Exposed more metal to the ones on the door pillars. Then I pulled the run/crank relay on the back side of the blackbox on the passenger floorboard and verified I had continuity going to there. Relay seems to be working too. It still wasnt working so I decided to go buy a column lock simulator. I put that in and still no change but I expected that because the column lock always seemed to be functioning properly anyway. So I dont know. Where is the damn reset button lol.

 

When your run/crank relay gets activated by your bcm, is that when everything goes blank?

DJ

 

Basically. Depress clutch and brake and then hit the start button and the run/crank relay clicks then everything goes black for a few seconds. Then the DIC lights and all the msgs start flashing.

 

Ok, you have done good job so far, pm me your e-mail address so I can send you schematics on what is causing your voltage to drop to low once the run/crank bus is activated.

I can send these tomorrow after I get back from work if you are willing to wait.

DJ

 

since the dash turns on, you should have power to ignite the engine.
if all you want to do is start the car, you can always "push start" the thing since you have a manual transmission (I had to do that many times when I was chasing the column lock issue, lol).
at your own risk, push the car to a very safe open space first and make sure your brakes work, since you don't know what this new engine will do when it does start!

before all that, one other thing that caused non start for my 05 was the clutch pedal switch. you can jump the connector to test if that switch is the culprit. good luck.

 

You nailed it, because its a new engine and its a tight residential neighborhood I don't want to push start it. I prefer to get her to start on her own so I can respond to any issues in place. I did think about it a few times though lol.

I did jump the clutch pedal switch a few times to see if that was an issue (and also when I was by myself and needed to be in two places at one time.) It wasn't a problem so I haven't replaced.

 

PM sent Nathan.

 

Battery was getting a little low so I jumped it with my other vette and was getting 13.1v at the fuse box. I pulled the #43 relay, jumped the clutch pedal switch and had my son (12yrs old) help with starting the car. When the car is started, same effect, ignition switch turns green for a second then everything goes black for a few sec before coming back online.

Then put #43 back in started car and watched voltage at fuse #11 drop from 13.1 to 12.85 but still not start. I pulled relay #44 (crank) and tried to start and same thing happened. Car responed same way on the dash, voltage at fuse #11 went from 13.1v to 12.85v and car would not crank.

While car remained in the ON mode I tested the fuses to see which ones had constant power. These did not have power: #06 (O2 Sens), #09 (PT Input/ETC), #10 (Man Tran Sol), #12 (Odd Inj), #14 (Emmission), #16 (Even Inj).

 

Those come from the the relay #44, since I do not have code base for the ECM, I will guess that when the run crank is enabled (+12volts on X1 pin 19) and the voltage goes high on pin 19.

A negative logic digital output activates the ground on X1 pin 59 for the activation of the ignition relay #44.

This powers the circuits you mentioned.

DJ

 

I just looked and fuse #10 should have power if fuse 11 does.

 

Did you swap out all the engine sensors for the old engine to the new replacement? Are ALL the sensor plugs and wires connected from the harness to the engine. The ECU has to have ALL the sensors checking in. you can not leave any thing disconnected or have replacement sensors with different voltage or resistance values. Most of the modern EFI sensor systems use a 0 to 5 volt signal that varies with what it is watching. The ECU must see all these signals to continue to the next step in the sequence .
I know you have not been able to get the engine to crank, but another area of problems is the reluctor wheel on the crankshaft. I have no idea if your 2 engines used the same tooth pattern. But that is not your problem yet.

 

Good stuff, so the LQ9 came out of and was operational in my 05 GTO. When I pulled the engine, all the sensors were removed and swapped between blocks. The oil pan was swapped for clearance so the sensor on the oil pan stayed with the vette. The LS2 is back in the GTO and operational and I know the reluctors are the same between vehicles. The sensors all fit in the same locations between the two blocks. The difference between the two blocks are the location of ground points, especially on the passenger side. The bolt hole above the starter on the LS2 is not there on the LQ9, it is actually 2" or 3" closer to the front of the block so when you go to connect the ground on the harness, it is just a bit further out from normal. No modification to the harness or wires need be made to reach the bolt hole though.

As far as the build and any modifications, its a TSP 408ci, Callies internals, Comp Cam243/251-.624/.624 113, Fast 102mm LSXr Intake, Fast #58 Injectors, Nick Williams 102mm TB, Air Raid CAI, Relocated Coil Packs, Monster Stage 2 clutch, Tick Speed Bleeder, replaced OEM slave cylinder, replaced input shaft on torque tube. Thats sums it up.