I installed new Bilstein sports on 2010 base last week. I am concerned because the Bilstein rear shocks are thicker on the bottom (where lower mounting bolt goes through) than the OEMs resulting in stock lower bolt not coming through the nut on the other side all the way. It is just almost flush with the end of the nut after torqued down; whereas with the factory shock the bolt came through, passed the end of the nut, with threads exposed beyond the nut. Have others experienced this? Is it OK? Loctite? New, longer bolt? thanks for your insight!

 

Doug Rippie installs a ton of these at DRM. Suggest you send your question to him and share the answer with all of us. DRM@dougrippie.com or visit the website and use the phone number.

 

the bolt sticking out past the nut does not make it any stronger, as long as the bolt is contacting all the threads you should be fine. It's not like there is a ton of stress there anyway. I'm sure you will get more opinions.

 

The rule is one half thread showing outside the nut. That nut doesn't have enough showing!

 

I'm leaning towards red Loctite and forget it. I know many have installed these and was curious what they had done. Seems no one else worried about it; can't find another mention of it anywhere.

 

Did you ever call DRM to see what their experience was?

 

Grade 8 bolt body od is same as 18mm. Both measured .620" and you can get them longer then the OEM.

Or get Grade 9 if you want more strength - but you will have to look for it.

If I was to convert to standard thread, I would also use flange nut as OEM. But unlike OEM, I would use an washer under the back of bolt head and Nord-Lock lock washer under flange nut.

For my Sports, I used Loctite Blue, medium duty, not the Red, several years ago and never came loose. But I will do the conversion, using additional washer and Nord-Lock when I received the DRM Bilstein Group Buy next month.

FYI, Tacoma Screw sells Nord-Lock in small quantity but will be expensive.

 

Wampa, loctite red won't break loose, requires heat to remove (literally, requires a torch)

1bdevet, there is no rule of thumb that says 1/2 thread sticking beyond nut, because structural, grade 6,8, or 10, polyamide, jam and acorn nuts all have different threaded lengths. the rule for fastener engagement length is one full bolt diameter if the nut (or threaded hole) is made of steel, 2 full bolt diameters of thread engagement if the nut (or threaded hole) is made of aluminum. so a 3/8" bolt fastened with a grade 8 steel nut would require a 3/8" thick nut, minimum. If this bolt were threaded into an aluminum block the threaded depth in that hole should be 3/4" minimum.

these engagement lengths are calculable based on materials choice, thread pitch, preload desired, dynamic or static load conditions using the Machinery's Handbook.

My advice is to select a longer bolt and utilize a thick washer and either a nut with polyamide insert or a standard grade 8 hex nut with loctite blue (just a dab on the end of the thread of the bolt - AFTER you've inserted it through the sleeve). Either of these approaches will protect against loosening due to vibration. Alternately, speak with your mechanic, salesman, whomever you trust mechanically and take their advice.

 

I appreciate the responses! No, Sub-vette, I haven't reached out to DRM--just weird about taking someone's time that I didn't order from.

 

That looks just fine to me, however if you are worried about it coming loose than use a couple of drops of the (medium strength) blue Loctite on the bolt threads.

PS: If you noticed (looked close) the nut has a chamfer so you pretty much have full thread (complete) contact between the nut and bolt.

 

I'm a helpful type person

You have a couple options and please use which ever one makes you most comfortable.

1. Torque to spec and don't worry about it.
2. Lock tight with either blue or red
3. Buy a longer bolt
4. Buy a different nut

IMHO All the above will work just fine. These get torqued to a huge amount (I don't have that in front of me right now).

Randy

 

Properly torqued fasteners don't come loose.

 

Separate question for you. In another thread, member LS1121 doesn't like the bushings that Bilstein provides. In your installation, did you have any complaints about the Bilstein bushings?

 

Torque it and forget about it.

 

I finished mine today and that is what I did.

 

I compared the 2 bushings during install and felt the OEM bushings fit the factory mounts better so re-used them.

 

My usual logic... This one made me nervous because I don't own a torque wrench that measures the 160 some ft/lbs this bolt is spec'd. I hit it with the impact and called it good...then 2nd guessed myself and posted this thread. I'll put some Loctite, torque it back down, and sleep better tonight. Thanks for all the help!

 

Here is a little advice, better to get an assortment of high grade torque wrench if you want to play safe.

I too have an assortment of impact tools but I seldom use them, unless I am faced with an situation call for its use.

Even on this project:



The hand tools in my old oil pan are all I used - my SnapOn Torque wrenches are not shown and stored at their safe place because they only come out when I need them:



IMO, impact tools are handy but can be detrimental to fasteners.

But to each their own.

 

These pictures gave me a chill. You are a better mechanic than I.