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These are the specs i use. I had to do another alignment after my cam swap, and I know there were a few people asking about a good street alignment. Ive been doing this setup for a while and I get the best life out of my tires using it. Chevy calls for -0.5 camber settings, but that just eats the inside of your tires faster.
Sorry if this is a repost, of if this is the 500th aligntment post.
Ive tested this through 3 sets of tires. The first set was set at -0.6. The wires started showing about 12,000 miles. The next set i did was -0.5 and still wore pretty fast on the inside. But with this current set, running -0.2, i put 10,000 on and is currently wearing evenly. All same brand and its a DD. Just something ive noticed.
I'm surprised. What brand tires? Are you tracking the car? I run .06-07 on my C6 with no appreciable wear at all. That's with pole position bridge stones(Z06 sized). On my DD 135i I have M3 control arms with -1.3 camber and no abnormal inner wear. Granted that's a different front suspension setup than the Vettes but it shouldn't really make a difference that would chew up tires.
I'm surprised. What brand tires? Are you tracking the car? I run .06-07 on my C6 with no appreciable wear at all. That's with pole position bridge stones(Z06 sized). On my DD 135i I have M3 control arms with -1.3 camber and no abnormal inner wear. Granted that's a different front suspension setup than the Vettes but it shouldn't really make a difference that would chew up tires.
No tracking yet, and i just cruise around and have fun with my friends. I am going to be going to the strip more often. The tires are michelin super sports.
I would worry more about the front toe being .05 than the camber mentioned.
Toe is what scrubs tires.
I tried the zero camber thing and the car handled terrible.
Maybe at .2 it is ok but again I do not like the toe amount you have up front.
I use the Pfdat street specs and the car handles great with fairly even tire wear. I was running less air than most too.
The cars front outside should experience some edge wear just due to driving and cornering fun.
I usually run .3 on the toe up front, but ive been experimenting. I think ill change it to .2 tomorrow. I tried the 0.0 camber a while back, and hated it.
Sounds like fun experimenting, but it takes so long to see results of the changes for us street only guys.
I have done the same experimenting with tire psi. I ran 30-31 hot pressure for a while and now am back to the cold 30 psi. Will need another few months to see any changes.
Sounds like fun experimenting, but it takes so long to see results of the changes for us street only guys.
I have done the same experimenting with tire psi. I ran 30-31 hot pressure for a while and now am back to the cold 30 psi. Will need another few months to see any changes.
Yeah... I do keep my tires 30 cold, and haven't had any issues.
Alignment settings and tire wear all depends on how (aggressively) and where you are driving the car and the roads. My GS had a fairly aggressive alignment from the factory, fronts up to 0.8 negative camber. Thinking that they would last longer (they are GY G2's) I went with PFADT street set up bringing them down to -0.5 front and rear, hated it. Took it back up to -0.8 but than noticed that the outsides were still wearing faster than the insides, so I am up to -1.0 in the fronts and -1.2 on the rears and the across the thread wear finally equalized. The car is little looser on straights but like on rails in the corners. Thank god for that as I like corners and have lot of them, obviously. Just buy a $2 thread depth gauge and check them monthly. That will give you great clues about your individual settings, and right to left, if something goes amiss with your setting which happens more often than not.
Alignment specs
