trick performance clutch master cylinder
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,135
Likes: 226
From: Roanoke Indiana
trick performance clutch master cylinder
Has anyone on here installed a trick performance adjustable clutch master cylinder? The clutch in my C6 Z06 engages too high for my taste.
It starts about 50%, my other cars start to engage at 25-30% which I prefer. I removed the spring, much better feel but I'd still like it to engage lower. I have trouble shifting 1st to 2nd smoothly, consistently.
It starts about 50%, my other cars start to engage at 25-30% which I prefer. I removed the spring, much better feel but I'd still like it to engage lower. I have trouble shifting 1st to 2nd smoothly, consistently.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 20,352
Likes: 568
From: Ventura County, Calif
Lots of people have and most are very happy with it. Some complain that the pedal effort increases to an uncomfortable level but most just get used to it. The increase in effort is due to the larger piston in the Tick. Here are a couple discussions to read:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...r-cyl-kit.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...tch-pedal.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...r-cyl-kit.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...tch-pedal.html
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,631
Clutch will engage/disengage lower in the pedal stroke, due to the way the master cylinder alone.
The Tick master cylinder has a wider body ID, while means that it flows more fluid for the same amount of pedal stroke as the factory unit. Due to this, when the Tick is adjusted correctly so it does not press the clutch in farther than needed, the first 3/4" to 1" of pushing the pedal down from all the way up is doing nothing (become free play before the plunger starts to move fluid).
Simply, your going to lower the engagement/disengagement of the clutch about 3/4" to 1" lower on the pedal than it is now.
As for pulling the clutch return spring, jury is still out on that one, and better to leave it in play.
The Tick master cylinder has a wider body ID, while means that it flows more fluid for the same amount of pedal stroke as the factory unit. Due to this, when the Tick is adjusted correctly so it does not press the clutch in farther than needed, the first 3/4" to 1" of pushing the pedal down from all the way up is doing nothing (become free play before the plunger starts to move fluid).
Simply, your going to lower the engagement/disengagement of the clutch about 3/4" to 1" lower on the pedal than it is now.
As for pulling the clutch return spring, jury is still out on that one, and better to leave it in play.
