clutch pedal return issue
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From: Arvada CO
clutch pedal return issue
I did a search on this. I've only had my 2011 ZR1 for 3 days and I've already had several instances of the clutch pedal returning only 75% of the way up. It sometimes sticks about 2-3" down. I did the Ranger method to the fluid several times. On the ZR1 site I was advised to disconnect the clutch helper spring and have the dealership do a clutch fluid change. The dealership just told me with only 4600 miles on the car, they seriously doubt a fluid change will help this issue.
During a search here I found a link to a Ligenfelter return spring.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...-position.html
Obviously there is a need for this out there. My question is, why isn't the pedal returning?
Any thoughts?
Thanks
During a search here I found a link to a Ligenfelter return spring.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...-position.html
Obviously there is a need for this out there. My question is, why isn't the pedal returning?
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Last edited by Finster07; Jul 3, 2014 at 11:22 AM.
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
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Is the problem happening at high rev speed shifts???
If yes, then its the nature of the beast with the stock clutch/stock fluid line.
The fluid line has three orifice restrictions in line to prevent you from dumping the clutch to destroy the drive line (slows the fluid return to the master cylinder), and when the clutch is high speed spinning, the inertia mass of the clutch high speed spinning slows down it's return to engagement as well.
If yes, then its the nature of the beast with the stock clutch/stock fluid line.
The fluid line has three orifice restrictions in line to prevent you from dumping the clutch to destroy the drive line (slows the fluid return to the master cylinder), and when the clutch is high speed spinning, the inertia mass of the clutch high speed spinning slows down it's return to engagement as well.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
From: Arvada CO
Is the problem happening at high rev speed shifts???
If yes, then its the nature of the beast with the stock clutch/stock fluid line.
The fluid line has three orifice restrictions in line to prevent you from dumping the clutch to destroy the drive line (slows the fluid return to the master cylinder), and when the clutch is high speed spinning, the inertia mass of the clutch high speed spinning slows down it's return to engagement as well.
If yes, then its the nature of the beast with the stock clutch/stock fluid line.
The fluid line has three orifice restrictions in line to prevent you from dumping the clutch to destroy the drive line (slows the fluid return to the master cylinder), and when the clutch is high speed spinning, the inertia mass of the clutch high speed spinning slows down it's return to engagement as well.
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Double check to make sure that the pedal coil spring is not missing for starters.
Next would be to check the system to make sure that you don't have air trapped in the master cylinder. If you have air in the master cylinder, then the system needs to be checked for leaks. The reasoning here, the system leaked down to the point that the reserve tank and tube went dry, air got into the master cylinder, and someone topped off the reserve tank with air still trapped in the master cylinder that did not self bleed out. As for leak points, master cylinder, hose center connector, or slave cylinder.
Next would be to check the system to make sure that you don't have air trapped in the master cylinder. If you have air in the master cylinder, then the system needs to be checked for leaks. The reasoning here, the system leaked down to the point that the reserve tank and tube went dry, air got into the master cylinder, and someone topped off the reserve tank with air still trapped in the master cylinder that did not self bleed out. As for leak points, master cylinder, hose center connector, or slave cylinder.
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Even with the tick, unless you change out to the solid one piece line, you still have a orifice restrictor in the line at the slave cylinder. Plus the fact that when a tick is adjusted correctly, you will have about 1/2" to 3/4" free play in the top of the pedal stroke that plunger will not push the pedal all the way back up.
Yes, tick tells you to remove the spring, but the jury is still out on that one, and best to leave the spring in play!!!
Yes, tick tells you to remove the spring, but the jury is still out on that one, and best to leave the spring in play!!!
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From: Hudson WI
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Even with the tick, unless you change out to the solid one piece line, you still have a orifice restrictor in the line at the slave cylinder. Plus the fact that when a tick is adjusted correctly, you will have about 1/2" to 3/4" free play in the top of the pedal stroke that plunger will not push the pedal all the way back up.
Yes, tick tells you to remove the spring, but the jury is still out on that one, and best to leave the spring in play!!!
Yes, tick tells you to remove the spring, but the jury is still out on that one, and best to leave the spring in play!!!
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SUBVETTE
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From: San Diego CA
Ditto on checking the pedal spring. Many have broken without warning. Also keep doing Ranger Method changes until the fluid stays clean. For me, when the car was brand new it took about six months of regular Ranger Method changes before the fluid stayed clean for any long period of time.
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From: Frederick Maryland
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I did a search on this. I've only had my 2011 ZR1 for 3 days and I've already had several instances of the clutch pedal returning only 75% of the way up. It sometimes sticks about 2-3" down. I did the Ranger method to the fluid several times. On the ZR1 site I was advised to disconnect the clutch helper spring and have the dealership do a clutch fluid change. The dealership just told me with only 4600 miles on the car, they seriously doubt a fluid change will help this issue.
During a search here I found a link to a Ligenfelter return spring.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...-position.html
Obviously there is a need for this out there. My question is, why isn't the pedal returning?
Any thoughts?
Thanks
During a search here I found a link to a Ligenfelter return spring.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...-position.html
Obviously there is a need for this out there. My question is, why isn't the pedal returning?
Any thoughts?
Thanks
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