Weight distribution on a corvette is 51% front/ 49% back. Since you don't list your car weight, lets call it 3K lbs,

So the weight to the ground/scale per the front tire should be 765lbs per tire. The back tires, 735lbs per tire.

With car on a tire scales and level ground, lower/raising each tire via the adjuster bolts one at a time will get the car weight correctly distributed across all four tires to the above numbers on the scales.

Hence, on the rears, if you have 800lbs on one side, and the other side is 670lbs, then the 800lbs side adjuster needs to be adjusted up, while the low side number tire adjuster needed to be adjusted down until you get 735lbs per tire on the scales.

On front to back for the 51%/49%, same goes, but here you are working per front to back on both sets of tires to get the front at 1530lbs for the front end for both front tires, and 1470lbs per back set of tires.


Also to note, before you adjust, single point remove one of the end links on the sway bars front and back, and do not reinstall the end link end until you have the car back on its own weight. If when you tighten the sway bar end links in place, and your scale weights change, your sway bars are bent/end links not the same length, and will need to be corrected.

This puts the car as neutral balanced as you are going to get it, which means that the car will corner the same both left to right/front to back.


Short of this balancing, then without scales, all you can do is find the height difference of a vet from front to back as a start point, and use a tape measure from level ground to the fenders to set height instead.

If you are looking for a start number, then use the back being 1 1/8" higher than the front from ground to the center of the fender lips. This will put you in the ball part, and you can corner balance and road course test the car later when you get the chance.

P.S, Don't know what ground effects you are running, or even your over all suspension set up, but if you can list it, and even what the car is doing on the track that needs to be resolved, we can dive into this rabbit hole as well. Hence 4 corner balancing only deals with stand still tire weighting to the ground, and ground effects with different down forces values front to back can effect the front to back weighting at speeds, causing you to have to alter the front to back still standing balancing to get the car neutral balanced as speeds instead.

 

Have to change one part of your explanation. front to rear 51%/49% isn't exactly right, the F to R balance differs with models and options

The balancing isn't done to make both sides of the rear and both sides of the front equal. It's done on diagonals.

The left Front + the right Rear should equal the right Front + the left Rear.

For instance; When you lower the Right rear the weight transfers from the Left front (and vice/versa). The diagonal balance of the same total weight of each is the desired result.

You can corner weight the car correctly for handling OR you can lower the car for appearance.

 

I dug up a copy of my '05 corner weight. Ignore the ballpoint calculations scribbled on the sides.

The car was a White Z51 Manual, 1 SB w/Nav. The weight was with tools, and some gas. Upper block is an empty car, lower block is with me in it.

 

Nicely put!

 

I had the Hardbar spherical Delrin bolts...drove the car hard on them for a few thousand miles and they dug a grove into the control arm pocket. Definitely took them out and I am not sure what kind of consequence that could have caused, but I definitely felt better without them.

 

Got to ask, did you go back to the stock adjusters, or just running the fiberglass springs up against the A frames instead????

 

Went with coilovers...best decision I ever made in my life.