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Axle Nut Base 2007

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Old Jul 21, 2014 | 01:33 PM
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Default Axle Nut Base 2007

I have the same rear end clicking noise that some on this forum complain about. Thinking it was the loose axle nut, I retorqued the nuts to 160 ft lb with locktite and let sit for 24 hours. Did not help. Can someone explain to me if the new nut is actually necessary and why? I reused the original nut, it didn't look like it needed to be replaced. I also read that the noise might be the sway bar ( F55 ) or the change fluid ( 29,000 miles ).
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Old Jul 21, 2014 | 03:11 PM
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The nut is designed to relax at torque.

Originally Posted by talon90
The spindle nuts are not intended to be re-torqued because they have a concave surface on the bottom that flattens at torque to mate intimately with the face. This is intended to really be a one shot deal.

The loose spindle nut has been identified to be at least partly caused by a slight tolerance stack-up between the thread peak and pitch of the nut vs. the spindle. The new torque spec is intended to be used with in conjunction with the TSB and new spindle nut which has a new part number because it is designed to be a better match to the tolerances of the spindle and eliminate this slop that was thought to be contributing to the nuts relaxing over time.

You are exactly correct in your thought that over torque can contribute to damage because once the nut has been torqued and flattened, additional attempts at torquing the nut can actually start to pull the spindle forward and all sorts of interesting things can begin to happen at greater power levels.

This is from an original C6 bulletin, when the "original" torque spec was 118 ft/lbs (160 Nm)

Notice: The nut is shaped so as to flatten with torque and time. When the nut is installed in production, the torque is 160N·m. Over time and miles, the nut is designed to relax to approximately 100N·m.
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Old Jul 21, 2014 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RicK T
The nut is designed to relax at torque.




This is from an original C6 bulletin, when the "original" torque spec was 118 ft/lbs (160 Nm)
Ok, I learned something I didn't know about torque and nuts. So now that I made an attempt to torque the old nut, what should I do? I understand now that multiple attempts could pull the spindle. Don't want that. I also don't want to try anything again in case the clicking is something different like the parking brake or sway bay.
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Old Jul 21, 2014 | 03:30 PM
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If it were me, for peace of mind and knowing things are correct, I'd get new nuts and have them installed, or install myself, using the recommended procedure. And the updated torque spec is 140 ft/lbs.

As for this thread, since you seem to have eliminated the axle nuts as the source of your noise, IMO you should abandon this thread and start a new thread and as thoroughly as possible describe the noise you are getting; when, what conditions, sound, etc.
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Old Jul 21, 2014 | 04:18 PM
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I would only add that, in general, the axle nut problem produces a very high pitched "click" whereas the sway bar links produce more of a low pitched "clunk" or "bump".
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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 02:11 PM
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remember to mark the nut with a paint pen or sharpie to be able to check if it ever moves

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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by cclive
I would only add that, in general, the axle nut problem produces a very high pitched "click" whereas the sway bar links produce more of a low pitched "clunk" or "bump".
I would have to say it is more a high pitch click. I don't want to make too many attempts and pull it out,
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