AC compressor connector broken
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 150
Likes: 1
AC compressor connector broken
After the cam install on my 2006 c6 either the belt we bought was slightly too large or the tensioner was weak. So the belt jumped off track and snapped off the plastic connector on the ac compressor about half way.
So I now no longer have power to my otherwise perfectly functioning ac system.
Can I perhaps dremel away some of the remaining connecter and solder some wires to run to the harness? Or could I replace the clutch assembly with a new electrical connector?..
I'd like to avoid dropping the cross member/draining the system and replacing the entire compressor if at all possible.
Thanks!
So I now no longer have power to my otherwise perfectly functioning ac system.
Can I perhaps dremel away some of the remaining connecter and solder some wires to run to the harness? Or could I replace the clutch assembly with a new electrical connector?..
I'd like to avoid dropping the cross member/draining the system and replacing the entire compressor if at all possible.
Thanks!
Racer
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 264
Likes: 5
From: Waldorf MD
Quickest/easiest is solder that ****. I personally would do that and forget about it til the compressor craps out.
May even be possible to solder on a matching pigtail to make it plug-and-play again.
May even be possible to solder on a matching pigtail to make it plug-and-play again.
Last edited by spy2520; Aug 4, 2014 at 10:44 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 150
Likes: 1
Racer
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 278
Likes: 19
From: Phoenix area Arizona
Are the metal terminals OK on the compressor? If so I would put shrink wrap around the wire harness terminal as insolation & connect to the compressor. If they look like they may come loose I would use a dab of silicone to keep it connected
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 150
Likes: 1
Theres a white piece of plastic that sticks out from behind the pulley that a 2 wire connector connects to. This snapped clean in half along with the 2 copper wires inside the plastic piece.
I will have to cut away some of the remaining plastic to expose more of the wire to have something to solder to.
Space/visibility is very limited from the top of the engine bay so I'm not sure how much I have to work with.
Limping across the line
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,299
Likes: 109
From: Peoria Az
If its just the plastic thats broken and the terminal mate up ok. just do as a previous poster mentioned, put a dab of RTV on the harness side of the connection then mate the 2 together.
Give it a few hours to cure undisturbed and you'll be good till the compressor gives out.
There's hardly enough room down there to do anything really elaborate.
and pulling that clutch& coil would be a major PITA. Yes you can just change the coil (it;ll have the connector that broke) but is it worth the aggravation IMHO no
Give it a few hours to cure undisturbed and you'll be good till the compressor gives out.
There's hardly enough room down there to do anything really elaborate.
and pulling that clutch& coil would be a major PITA. Yes you can just change the coil (it;ll have the connector that broke) but is it worth the aggravation IMHO no
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 150
Likes: 1
If its just the plastic thats broken and the terminal mate up ok. just do as a previous poster mentioned, put a dab of RTV on the harness side of the connection then mate the 2 together.
Give it a few hours to cure undisturbed and you'll be good till the compressor gives out.
There's hardly enough room down there to do anything really elaborate.
and pulling that clutch& coil would be a major PITA. Yes you can just change the coil (it;ll have the connector that broke) but is it worth the aggravation IMHO no
Give it a few hours to cure undisturbed and you'll be good till the compressor gives out.
There's hardly enough room down there to do anything really elaborate.
and pulling that clutch& coil would be a major PITA. Yes you can just change the coil (it;ll have the connector that broke) but is it worth the aggravation IMHO no
Racer
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 278
Likes: 19
From: Phoenix area Arizona
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 154
Likes: 22
From: TEXAS
Bump. I had this same thing happen to me. I heard a squealing sound, and found the connector broke-off on the compressor side (it seems like the whole plug came off of the compressor.
It is far to too tight a space to even see the remnants of the connection.
If it was easier to access, I'd remove it and try to solder it, but I don't have a lift and removing the compressor requires dropping the subframe. Given that, I'm thinking of just paying the dealer to put in a new compressor.
Thoughts?
It is far to too tight a space to even see the remnants of the connection.
If it was easier to access, I'd remove it and try to solder it, but I don't have a lift and removing the compressor requires dropping the subframe. Given that, I'm thinking of just paying the dealer to put in a new compressor.
Thoughts?
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 154
Likes: 22
From: TEXAS
I bought a new compressor assembly for $290 on Amazon. I see the clutch for sale by itself for $130 (88958094). From what I understand, to change the clutch you have to remove the compressor anyway, requiring dropping of subframe, purging/refilling system, and specialty tools to get AC pulley off. Is that the case?
[EDIT] video of replacement and tools needed:
If so, it seems putting a new complete unit may be prudent, as even though miles are low, the car is ten years old.
Thoughts?
[EDIT] video of replacement and tools needed:
If so, it seems putting a new complete unit may be prudent, as even though miles are low, the car is ten years old.
Thoughts?
Last edited by Ghost Knight; Dec 25, 2017 at 12:33 PM.