Nice
Installed the new QTP Cutout wireless fob controller
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,950
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From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
Installed the new QTP Cutout wireless fob controller
One of my favorite mods nearly 8 years ago now was the installation of QTP electronic cutouts. With the cutouts I can run stock mufflers for daily driving, and then when I want to hit the track or car show, open them up and it's party time. I have turndowns after the cutouts so the sound is directed toward the ground which gives it a very deep bass sound that you can hear in the car.
QTP recently came out with a key fob electronic controller - I used to have to siting the car to operate the toggle switch, now, I can do it with the fob from outside the vehicle if I want. And the tiny unit is tucked up under the dash, cleaning up my interior a bit from the toggle that used to hang below the dash.
Here's the unit. Power, ground and it plugs into the control wire for the cutouts. Since you need power and ground for the existing toggle I had everything there...install took about 2 minutes.
Figured I'd take the opportunity to have my son shoot a video of the cutout operation. Last time I took my cutout demonstration vid there was no YouTube nor iPhone and he was 4.
But my QTP cutouts work just as well as the day I put them on. I have to commend them on their quality.
QTP recently came out with a key fob electronic controller - I used to have to siting the car to operate the toggle switch, now, I can do it with the fob from outside the vehicle if I want. And the tiny unit is tucked up under the dash, cleaning up my interior a bit from the toggle that used to hang below the dash.
Here's the unit. Power, ground and it plugs into the control wire for the cutouts. Since you need power and ground for the existing toggle I had everything there...install took about 2 minutes.
Figured I'd take the opportunity to have my son shoot a video of the cutout operation. Last time I took my cutout demonstration vid there was no YouTube nor iPhone and he was 4.
But my QTP cutouts work just as well as the day I put them on. I have to commend them on their quality.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
In case anyone wants to see the install of the cutouts, here's the original 2007 thread:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-on-my-c6.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-on-my-c6.html
Had QTP cutouts installed by Florida Performance in Fort Lauderdale. Overall very pleased with the job Rob, the shop owner, did. This was his first C6 and he found a great place to put them and made the custom mandrel bent Y-pipes to maximize flow from the cutouts. We found no way to put them right after the collectors but they fit well by the trans. I have the DTE brace too but it wasn't in the way.
Installed the wiring myself along the drivers side rocker panel, behind seat then out the wheel well under the carpet. Removed the rear inner fender and drilled a small hole in the wheel well then ran the wire down to the cutouts. Hardest part is finding a hot wire when the ignition is on on these C6's. I ended up tapping the seat heater fuse as others here have done.
They are loud and DEEP when open at idle. I've actually heard louder exhaust though, I was kind of surprised they are not louder. I think it is because of the turn downs and the fact that I have cats and the pipes are pretty long before the cutouts. On the track they have a nice race car sound - I'd say like Borla Stingers plus 25%. When you open them at a stoplight you will turn heads, that's for sure.
Overall happy with the mod, it gives me quiet during my morning drive but loud when I'm at the track which is what I wanted.
Here is a video of idle with cutouts open and closed. The gain on the mike makes the closed sound much louder than it is, it's really quiet with factory mufflers even with my cam.
Here are some pics:
Installed the wiring myself along the drivers side rocker panel, behind seat then out the wheel well under the carpet. Removed the rear inner fender and drilled a small hole in the wheel well then ran the wire down to the cutouts. Hardest part is finding a hot wire when the ignition is on on these C6's. I ended up tapping the seat heater fuse as others here have done.
They are loud and DEEP when open at idle. I've actually heard louder exhaust though, I was kind of surprised they are not louder. I think it is because of the turn downs and the fact that I have cats and the pipes are pretty long before the cutouts. On the track they have a nice race car sound - I'd say like Borla Stingers plus 25%. When you open them at a stoplight you will turn heads, that's for sure.
Overall happy with the mod, it gives me quiet during my morning drive but loud when I'm at the track which is what I wanted.
Here is a video of idle with cutouts open and closed. The gain on the mike makes the closed sound much louder than it is, it's really quiet with factory mufflers even with my cam.
Here are some pics:
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
They have been exercised a lot over the last 7 years!
I learned my lesson on my c5...I had Borla stingers which were great until I got headers...then marginal, then when I put a cam in it was just crazy loud. OK for track or car show, but daily driving stunk...people at stop lights used to look at me like my car was broken. The cutouts and stock mufflers are a nice choice.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
I took off the inner fender from the front of the rear wheel well, drilled a hole toward the top of the fender to get the wires into the cabin, (I pulled back the carpet first) and then ran it down behind the carpet, along the rocker panel, to up under the dash.
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I have a automatic so I have to mount the qtp's farther forward on the xpipe past the cats. Yours are mounted near the rear on you manual trans correct? I guess I will have to just take a look and see how it can be done.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
You could take down your tunnel plate, drill a hole in it for the wires to pass through, and run it up through the shifter area.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 678
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From: Los Angeles California
good lawd the thing sounds super loud with the cutouts open in the YouTube video
does the exhaust in open mode cause all the dash pieces / door panels to rattle in the car?
As usual thank you for your contribution to this forum Joe_G
does the exhaust in open mode cause all the dash pieces / door panels to rattle in the car?
As usual thank you for your contribution to this forum Joe_G
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
No it's not loud at all in the car, rather, it sounds good. Frankly I used to have Magnaflow 14336 mufflers and they droned so loud on the highway it drove me crazy. I can ride with my cutouts open on the highway and still have a conversation. Now that said, I usually close them up and ride in stock quiet, but even open they aren't bad at all inside the car.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Los Angeles California
Thanks for the kind words furiousox!
No it's not loud at all in the car, rather, it sounds good. Frankly I used to have Magnaflow 14336 mufflers and they droned so loud on the highway it drove me crazy. I can ride with my cutouts open on the highway and still have a conversation. Now that said, I usually close them up and ride in stock quiet, but even open they aren't bad at all inside the car.
No it's not loud at all in the car, rather, it sounds good. Frankly I used to have Magnaflow 14336 mufflers and they droned so loud on the highway it drove me crazy. I can ride with my cutouts open on the highway and still have a conversation. Now that said, I usually close them up and ride in stock quiet, but even open they aren't bad at all inside the car.
Just reading some comments here some members said since the cutouts are in the middle of the car all the loudness is concentrated there
If you can still hold a conversation on the highway then that's pretty damn awesome lol
I would drive in loud mode 99% of the time so I just want to make sure I won't feel uncomfortable doing that
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
Interesting!
Just reading some comments here some members said since the cutouts are in the middle of the car all the loudness is concentrated there
If you can still hold a conversation on the highway then that's pretty damn awesome lol
I would drive in loud mode 99% of the time so I just want to make sure I won't feel uncomfortable doing that
Just reading some comments here some members said since the cutouts are in the middle of the car all the loudness is concentrated there
If you can still hold a conversation on the highway then that's pretty damn awesome lol
I would drive in loud mode 99% of the time so I just want to make sure I won't feel uncomfortable doing that
It's not bad at all and nowhere near as bad as that drone was from the 14336 mufflers.
Keep in mind too, if you've got manifolds your exhaust will be 50% quieter than mine. Headers add 30% noise and the big cam adds the other 20%.
Here is an example for you. This video was shot by my iPhone on my driver's window, top up and windows up.
Notice that the truck next to me is a lot louder than my car when he does his burnout vs mine .... he's in the other lane and my windows are up and still his car is louder than mine.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 317
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From: tampa fl
I had cutouts installed on my car and I love them. I keep them open a fair bit, but will closed them when cruising.....It is LOUD on my car with a cam and headers!!!!!!
When the cutouts were first installed, it was with a manual switch that was in the center console. I then converted to remotes. The remotes worked fine for a month or so, and then stopped working. Well, kind of stopped. The remotes would only work for the first few minutes the car was running the first time it was started each day, then they would stop working for the rest of the day, no matter what position the cutouts were in. I contacted QTP, they sent me a new control module and remotes. Installed these and it did not solve the problem. Another call to QTP and they wanted me to removed the motors from the cutouts and send them back for analysis. I really did not want to do this, so I removed the remote module and but the manual switch back on. The cutouts now work flawlessly again. No other changes to wiring, grounds etc, other than disconnecting the remote module and connecting the switch. I thought is was very odd, but i am perfectly happy with the switch vs the remotes.
When the cutouts were first installed, it was with a manual switch that was in the center console. I then converted to remotes. The remotes worked fine for a month or so, and then stopped working. Well, kind of stopped. The remotes would only work for the first few minutes the car was running the first time it was started each day, then they would stop working for the rest of the day, no matter what position the cutouts were in. I contacted QTP, they sent me a new control module and remotes. Installed these and it did not solve the problem. Another call to QTP and they wanted me to removed the motors from the cutouts and send them back for analysis. I really did not want to do this, so I removed the remote module and but the manual switch back on. The cutouts now work flawlessly again. No other changes to wiring, grounds etc, other than disconnecting the remote module and connecting the switch. I thought is was very odd, but i am perfectly happy with the switch vs the remotes.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
ksurfer, that's odd...what power source did you use to power the cutout module? Our cars have so few power sources and some are only hot in the garage when the dash lights come on. I used the seat heater fuse, that's a reliable source for switched power.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 317
Likes: 7
From: tampa fl
The cutouts did work fine for a month or so, and then would work for an hour or so after first start up, so I don't think the source of the power was the issue.
QTP's theory was that the motors were bad or may be that something in the valves was binding up when they got hot. That did not make sense to me since they work fine with the switch.