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I needed to pop the lower ball joint to install a new set of SKF hubs and picked up the Harbor Freight tool to help. This is the first time I've removed a ball joint so this post is for first timers
I was not able to fully insert the tool into the joint. It appeared the mouth was about 1/8" too small so I opened it up with a Dremel being careful to smooth the edges.
The tool also didn't quite open far enough to grab the nut so I removed a little material from the end of the upper arm and front tip of the tool.
For me it worked best to loosen the the nut on the ball joint until there is about a 1/8" gap, apply the tool and pop the joint.
First hub took about three hours but the second was less than an hour with just a couple of minutes for the ball joint, nothing like hands on experience.
Last edited by StKnoWhere; Sep 7, 2014 at 08:07 PM.
Back in my day we used to loosen the nut to the top of the threads then hit the control arm with a 5 lb sledge to use the spring pressure to pop it loose, then use a jack to lower it down. Seems one hit used to do it.
I guess not a good idea to use that technique on an aluminum control arm.
Funny you should post this. I just did this job a few weeks ago, had the same problem with the Harbor Freight tool, started to modify it and then got fed up and used a 2x4 and 4 pound sledge. 😁
Back in my day we used to loosen the nut to the top of the threads then hit the control arm with a 5 lb sledge to use the spring pressure to pop it loose, then use a jack to lower it down. Seems one hit used to do it.
I guess not a good idea to use that technique on an aluminum control arm.
I'm getting old. lol
pretty much what I do.
I had Harbour freights tool (it broke)
Got the factory tool for the small ends (tie rod and uppers)
Funny you should post this. I just did this job a few weeks ago, had the same problem with the Harbor Freight tool, started to modify it and then got fed up and used a 2x4 and 4 pound sledge. 😁
I was almost ready to go for the hammer but never miss a chance to play with machinist a Dremel tool
The trick is you only need about a 1/8" gap between the arm and nut to pop it loose. Down side is you need the allen to keep the joint from spinning to get the nut the rest of the way off.
Guys I'm in the same boat, wire broke at the hub speed sensor, must replace hub. If GM rotated hub so lower hub bolt was not behind the ball joint bolt it would be mindless. Anyway, I'm a little confused on how the HF tool works. Moding the tool no problem. Does the fork go between the nut and the control arm and the single arm pushs down on the bolt to separate? A little more insight would be great. Also my issue is on a C5.
I was almost ready to go for the hammer but never miss a chance to play with machinist a Dremel tool
The trick is you only need about a 1/8" gap between the arm and nut to pop it loose. Down side is you need the allen to keep the joint from spinning to get the nut the rest of the way off.
Hi Folks, I could use some help / hints. I just stripped the threads on the GM recommended J42188 trying to get the lower ball joint to pop. The tool worked fine on the upper. Is a hammer really recommended? I followed the steps in the shop manual for the lower control arm removal. This is for a 2006 Z, right front lower.
Hi Folks, I could use some help / hints. I just stripped the threads on the GM recommended J42188 trying to get the lower ball joint to pop. The tool worked fine on the upper. Is a hammer really recommended? I followed the steps in the shop manual for the lower control arm removal. This is for a 2006 Z, right front lower.
Thanks
yes it may be needed,put some pressure on the ball joint stud with the tool then wack it (the upright) where the stud passes through.
make sure to leave the nut on just back it off a bit so thing don't fly when it comes loose
kent-moore GM factory tool works perfectly and no modifications needed comes with built in allen wrench.inexpensive also
Hi irok, in my original post, I noted that I stripped the threads on the GM recommended tool J-42188-B, trying to get this loose. The J-42188-B is the Kent Moore tool. Also, when you say inexpensive, what do you mean? New, that tool list for close to $400. I was able to find a used one for about $150. Of course when I was looking for a second one, I saw one on e-bay for $80. Will most likely order the bolt thru a local fastener company so I can try again.
On a side note, I think it was operator error and will find out tonight. I do appreciate the help.
Hi irok, in my original post, I noted that I stripped the threads on the GM recommended tool J-42188-B, trying to get this loose. The J-42188-B is the Kent Moore tool. Also, when you say inexpensive, what do you mean? New, that tool list for close to $400. I was able to find a used one for about $150. Of course when I was looking for a second one, I saw one on e-bay for $80. Will most likely order the bolt thru a local fastener company so I can try again.
On a side note, I think it was operator error and will find out tonight. I do appreciate the help.
have a blessed day.
All, I use a pitman arm puller. You have to turn the steering wheel to full lock to work it in there, but I've used it MANY times when changing hubs on the race car. 5/8" or 3/4" socket on the ACME screw and it pops right loose. No hammering needed.
All, I use a pitman arm puller. You have to turn the steering wheel to full lock to work it in there, but I've used it MANY times when changing hubs on the race car. 5/8" or 3/4" socket on the ACME screw and it pops right loose. No hammering needed.
First of all, thanks to everyone for helping the rookie wrench. I finished modding the harbor freight tool and 30 seconds later and about 3 cranks on the ratchet, there was a rewarding "pop"!
I did repair the Kent Moore tool first and it still didn't do the job. In all fairness i did release the tension on the spring when I used the harbor freight tool. When I do the other corner, I will give the kent moore tool another shot with the same conditions that finally worked on this corner. Now to push out the bushings.
Instead of buying a tool, just grab a couple of heavy hammers.
Hold one hammer agianst the spindle infront of the BJ. Now whack the spindle at the rear opposite the other hammer.
You dont need to hit it with the force of the Almighty just a couple of good solid whacks will get it to pop.
You wont harm anything unless you go overboard with the hammer
Oh yeah just back the lower nut off a few threads before hammering
Last edited by AzMotorhead; Jul 15, 2015 at 09:35 PM.
I use a 3 lb short handle sledge. I loosen the nut and leave it screwed on by about 3 threads. Then I hit the control arm a couple of times along the side of the ball joint mount. I did find that I have to keep checking to see if the CA is loose as it doesn't fall down when the BJ stud breaks loose.
Mods to Harbor Freight Balljoint tool for C6
