Just here to get some opinions on what this could be and what the fix is. After driving the car last night around town for 30 min or so The wife and I decided to head home. As we came up to the last stop before the entrance to our neighborhood I decided to stall it up for a couple seconds and the take off like I would at the strip. Car spun hard like normal and i let out of it to slow down in time for the entrance to our addition. Check engine light came on right after I floored it and let off. I took it easy to the driveway which is only a couple hundred feet from the neighborhood entrance. If you can imagine a driveway with a slight incline to get the the garage that's how our is and I avoid taking it at anything faster than 1-2mph to keep from taking my bumper off. Upon stopping and then accelerating again to get into the driveway car hesitated (like the converter or clutches were slipping severly) to make it over the bump. She still had enough forward driving power to get over but it took way more throttle than usual. Usually I can just let my foot off the brake and it goes right over. This time it needed me to throttle it up (approx 2k rpm).

So needless to say I got curious after work today and backed the car out into the driveway just to make sure it wasnt some fluke deal. Car acted the exact same in all forward gears but perfectly normal in reverse and neutral ( I used drive and shifter mode for specific gear selection to try to pinpoint issue to only 1st gear)

As some of you know I just got the car back on the road last week after having minor electrical problems. She lasted all of two weeks back on the road with the new wheel and tire setup before breaking again. Smh. I guess im super hard on cars.

What are your thoughts. I have not had the codes pulled yet for the CE light but I will hopefully soon. The fact that it still moves forward and reverse under its own power leads me to believe it's not a serious break. Could it be something minor?

Car is a 06 Base 6L80 car with a fully built LS2 (previously ran high 10s) 58k miles. Rear diff is a RPM stage 1 and a yank 3600 stall converter.

 

"Probably" not a huge problem. There's another one going on today in the General Forum. Likely the internal mode switch or one of the solenoids acting up. Need the codes to be sure.

 

I was thinking the same thing and really hoping it's nothing serious. Although If it is I will likely being doing a full build while it's out to eliminate future issues when car makes more power next year when boosted.

 

I hear ya.....but if it's one of those "relatively" minor things it doesn't have to come out. We'll hope for the best......with either scenario.

 

That would be awesome and the wife would praise me for not spending 3k ish lol.

 

Did your car go into gear hard with a clunk? Mine acted like bad u joints would on a older car. Then Monday it shifted into D with way too much force and set a code. Lost forward gears, could not make it up my driveway without excessive rpms. Had to back it up.
Mechanic thinks a nylon bearing is bad. Still waiting to hear from him. Hopefully today.

Good luck and hope both our problems are minor.

 

Plugged up a code reader today and it read a p0716 code which is the input speed sensor which I believe is located in the valve body. Was told trans doesn't need to come out to replace it but it could be an extensive job. I will keep this thread updated when I find out more info. Has any of my followers had this issue in the past? What was the fix for you? From what I've been reading replacing the sensor will fix it.

 

my guy said it would be around $1500 to change out valve body. Then someone has to come program it.

 

Today I took the car back out of the garage and took it for a spin after noticing that the CE light was not lit on the dash any longer. She drove just like she should which means nothing is wrong with the mechanical function of the trans rather it is soley the fault of the p0716 code input speed sensor. If I go ahead and take the trans out I will have it freshened up by a local shop but it shouldnt need a full rebuild. Thoughts?

 

My guy found nothing wrong. He did replace the valve caps with stronger ones and replaced a gasket that looked worn. No way to monitor valve body as it is all contained in transmission. Oil and filter change also for $250 total.

Running fine now but I am keeping an eye on it.

Still has a little clunk going into reverse that makes me nervous.

 

If you already had the trans in the shop I would've gone ahead and freshened it up (i.e. clutches/steels/seals)