Been fighting a key fob issue, and finally broke down and went to dealer. Dealer said it was a bad transmitter in the fob. I asked them to dig deeper bc I had two brand new fobs that didnt work either so that theory really didnt hold water. They got defensive, so I went to a shop I trusted bc they stole one of the few "gm master techs" in the state from one of the dealerships. After 2 days of playing with it off and on, including a complete reflash, Their tech confirmed what I believed, that the rdclr was bad. Unfortunately, the shop told me gm told them they're back ordered and not due to be restocked soon, bc they're being redesigned.

Idk how much stock I put in that last part but either way looks like I'm replacing the rdclr.

My questions are

1. When replacing the reciever, do you need to mate the vin with a tech2, or can you just reprogram the fobs and TPSensors with the built in programming sequence?

2. Is the reciever on the c6 in the dash or behind the fuel door? If in the dash, does the whole dash need to come out or just the console?

3. Is this the right part # (05' if that even matters) - 15235325

 

RCDLR is above the radio, and comes out just like the radio, Hence just need to pull the center console to get to it.
Figure #12
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...message-9.html


Tech II will be needed to program a new one to the car, as well as maybe update it (TSB#PIC4188E). When programing it to the car, they can program the fobs at the same time.


As for the RCDLR, 99% of the time, either a cold solder joint or one of the 4 relays gone bad that can be corrected in a few mins (if you have the talent).

 

That's exactly what I needed! Thank you! I have zero talent, but wouldn't mind trying it! LoL

Is there a thread on this?

 

No sure if there is a write up on this, but the short version.

Pull the RCDLR out of the car, then remove the board from the cover.

With the board in hand, a static strap on your wrist to ground you out, and a fine tip soldering gun for soldering circuit boards, your going to touch off on all the solder joints with just a hint of new solder to flow the solder connections very quickly to correct any cold solder joints.






Note, photo's are from Cole's unit that he email photo's over to me to see If I saw any cold solder joints that where standing out.


As for the relays, they are the 4 white axicom on the board and are easy to check with a 5v source to see if the contractor side is bad on one and it needs to be replaced.
Relays are,
tht-mono stable,
5v coil voltage
standard version
2 form C contacts

1+ and 12- are your coils contacts,
10 to 9 normally closed, 9 to 8 continuity via the coil charge with 5v
3 to 4 normally closed, 4 to 5 continuity via the coil charged with 5v

here is the download for the spec on them,
http://www.tycoelectronics.com/comme...df%7F1393788-3


As for replacement parts, Mouser should have you covered.

Also, before you even dive into the board, double check the wire connects that plug into the box, since there the problem may be in one of the pins in the connector that is badly corrode, or the wire not making a clean contact to the pin (read pop the connectors off, hit them and the pins with contact cleaner, and then plug them back in to see if something this simple solves the problem.

Also, no, there is not a connecter that plugs into the very left hand socket on the board, so when you see that there in nothing plugged into it, don't panic and start looking for a extra connecter that is not plugged in.

 

I'm about ready to punt the ball, too.
Changed batteries twice...last time was Panasonic. Will not do anything. Will start if I put the fob in the slot.
Did this once about a month ago. The fob would not let me in and when I did get in, with fob in hand, it cranked after the delay(hitting the start button twice). I did not change the batteries. It worked fine until last week. Now, it will not let me in and will not crank unless the fob is in the slot, after two battery changes.
What is troubling is both fobs are doing the same. What's the chance of that? I'm thinking that it goes a little deeper than a battery change.

 

Update on FOB problem..... After reading several hundred helpful hints from the forum guys.....I had a phone charger plugged into the area under the console armrest. Unplugged it and everything is OK.
Something that may help a few guys.

 

Very common problem...glad you found it.