When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I know when I remove the magnetic ride I have to use the simulators or disable it through a Tech2. Some say the simulators don't work all the time. I found this thread about disabling magnetic ride on a C5 using a Tech2. Is it the same process for C6?
Why do you want to remove the magnetic ride on your car?
Don't need it and I'm going to put aftermarket shocks on the car. I bought a centennial edition GS for the paint and interior but didn't care for the mag ride since I drag race instead of road race.
I know when I remove the magnetic ride I have to use the simulators or disable it through a Tech2. Some say the simulators don't work all the time. I found this thread about disabling magnetic ride on a C5 using a Tech2. Is it the same process for C6?
Same process. If I am remembering correctly it may be a little easier on the C6's. The C5's often required sitting with the battery disconnected for an hour or more to properly delete F55. I think the C6's I have done were a pretty painless affair without a lot of sitting.
From: North Strand, NMB, SC; Retired x 2 (US Army: 70-90 AD) (US Army: 91-16 DAC); yea, I'm old.
Originally Posted by dsp300c
Don't need it and I'm going to put aftermarket shocks on the car. I bought a centennial edition GS for the paint and interior but didn't care for the mag ride since I drag race instead of road race.
I will give you $300 for all four of your F55 shocks...okie dokie???
Don't need it and I'm going to put aftermarket shocks on the car. I bought a centennial edition GS for the paint and interior but didn't care for the mag ride since I drag race instead of road race.
Actually F55 is better for drags than standard shocks. Upon launch in the tour setting, it allows the front to lift quickly to maximum shock extension and stiffens the rear. The weight transfer is immediate and stays as constant as the rate of power supplied.
If you still want to switch, I could be in the market to buy. Since I'm at 120K miles, it's possible I might have a failure in another 30K or so.
does anyone know exactly where these modules are that you have to plug the tech2 into?
The Tech2 plugs in under the dash not directly to the modules. Your car has an onboard computer network (several actually) and there is one convenient access point. The Suspension module is not in the trunk on your car like it is in the C5s it is behind the RF wheelhouse liner.
UPDATE
The local shops I go to didn't have a Tech2 upated to 2012 for my car and I didn't feel like messing with a dealership. Instead I bought the simulators from ZIP Corvette and they did work for me in my 2012 Grandsport.
have to dig that thread out - want to change to coil overs and need advise on what actions are needed/possible.
1. Tech II "deprogramming"
2. 8(!) simulators like the part # 997002 on Davies (C2005 - 2013 Corvette Shock Absorber Simulator Set with F55 Magnetic Selective Ride Control - consists of 4 shock plug-ins and 4 position sensor plug-ins)
3. DIY solution with resistors
Here my questions about the options:
To 1.: What excatly is to do (want to support my dealer if needed)?
To 2.: Where are the position sensors of this solution?
To 3: What resistor sizes are needed and how much (4?/8?) and if possible I want to have that in a reversible way - where to buy the plug connectors for the shocks/position sensors to just plug the resitors with plugs to the original car plugs so that it is reversible (like in the Davies solution)?
Thanks
Lars
Last edited by LdkE; May 8, 2016 at 03:32 AM.
Reason: corrected links
I know when I remove the magnetic ride I have to use the simulators or disable it through a Tech2. Some say the simulators don't work all the time. I found this thread about disabling magnetic ride on a C5 using a Tech2. Is it the same process for C6?
The F55 module is next to your ECM in the fender well.
#5
To to get to it, you just remove the passenger front tire, remove the back wheel well liner, and your ready to program it out, disconnect it connector.
So Tech II to program out the F45 programming, and while the Tech II is still plugged in right after you program out the F45 option, disconnect the connector to the F55 module.
If the F55 module is still plugged in when you start the car again, it will self program itself back into the car isntead. Hence on all start ups, the system self checks all the modules and if it find a new one, it will self program it into the programming.
As for the money you just wasted the the simulators, you could have picked up a clone Tech II for around $400, did what you needed to program out the F55 with it, and had a Clone Tech II on hand for anything else you need it for as well.