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Old Nov 29, 2014 | 09:04 AM
  #21  
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ls1121, where you running the shocks without the bump stops installed?


To start knocking out the C clip out of the channel, the bump stop would have had to disintegrate first to allow the shock to compress that far into the shock.

To add, most of use reuse the upper OEM parts, including the OEM bump stops.

Last edited by Dano523; Nov 29, 2014 at 09:07 AM.
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Old Nov 29, 2014 | 04:10 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Dano523
ls1121, where you running the shocks without the bump stops installed?


To start knocking out the C clip out of the channel, the bump stop would have had to disintegrate first to allow the shock to compress that far into the shock.

To add, most of use reuse the upper OEM parts, including the OEM bump stops.
No, the bump stops were in place. The C clip just broke. I re used all the old OEM parts, well almost I bought new rubber bushings from GM. I have not hit a hole hard enough to compress the shock enough to even compress the bump stop. I sent a PM and am waiting to hear on getting a couple new clips.
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Old Nov 29, 2014 | 08:08 PM
  #23  
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Clips will be there no problem! I have a bag of them from when we used to remove them for service and etc. They sometimes get messed up removing and putting back together.

You have to run the bilstein bump stop and lower washer for them to work. Since I saw this thread I always wondered how that clip got messed up. Now I know why and how. There is a steel spacer in the bilstein dust boot that pushes square on that ring. The factory boot doesn't have that.

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Old Nov 29, 2014 | 08:14 PM
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I looked at the other thread also. That washer that was removed above the bump stop was there for a reason. It isolates the bump stop from the rest of the mount.

Randy
336-350-8256 in case you have questions or need additional parts to make this right. Don't really have a dog in the fight, but trying to keep the fever alive
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Old Nov 29, 2014 | 08:29 PM
  #25  
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Nice offer, nice going, Randy!
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Old Nov 29, 2014 | 11:21 PM
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This is unbelievable, that a basic operation like replacing shocks has turned into such a FUBAR.

The tech at our dealership had both Bilstein parts and GM parts available to use in the install of Bilstein HDs, I don't know which combination he used and probably he doesn't remember either. I'm pretty sure he did not re-use the C-clips, because I think they were on the previous (Base GM) shocks when he gave the old ones to me. I removed the dust boots and that yellowish plastic insert, and tossed the rest. If only I knew...

And I'm still having trouble understanding Al Gumby's comment that the C-clip is what keeps the shock shaft from punching upward, the clip looks far too small for that. My car may not have the clips installed, I drove it 100 miles over various roads and everything seems normal- the shafts have not migrated upward, there are no rattles or squeaks. But in the future???

Further comments would be appreciated, especially from Randy .
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 09:30 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Randy@DRM
Clips will be there no problem! I have a bag of them from when we used to remove them for service and etc. They sometimes get messed up removing and putting back together.

You have to run the bilstein bump stop and lower washer for them to work. Since I saw this thread I always wondered how that clip got messed up. Now I know why and how. There is a steel spacer in the bilstein dust boot that pushes square on that ring. The factory boot doesn't have that.

Randy
Yes you are correct being that there is a contact point in that cheap bilstein boot however I used all of the factory GM parts and the gm boot is steel where it hits the clip. I really don't understand what you are saying about this. The factory set up seems to work for everyone else. I guess my point is that when the shocks are replaced there should be a New C clip installed instead of using the old clip. Bilstein should supply the clips with the shocks.
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 09:32 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Randy@DRM
I looked at the other thread also. That washer that was removed above the bump stop was there for a reason. It isolates the bump stop from the rest of the mount.

Randy
336-350-8256 in case you have questions or need additional parts to make this right. Don't really have a dog in the fight, but trying to keep the fever alive
Thank You so much for your help.
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 09:40 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
This is unbelievable, that a basic operation like replacing shocks has turned into such a FUBAR.

.
I have to agree with you!

I have had a several sets of Bilsteins, in fact I just bought a set of their coilovers to replace my broken Pfadts. Never had an issue.
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 09:58 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ls1121

Yes you are correct being that there is a contact point in that cheap bilstein boot however I used all of the factory GM parts and the gm boot is steel where it hits the clip. I really don't understand what you are saying about this. The factory set up seems to work for everyone else. I guess my point is that when the shocks are replaced there should be a New C clip installed instead of using the old clip. Bilstein should supply the clips with the shocks.
They do come with new clips, mine did anyway...sounds like yours got left off accidentally.
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 04:49 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by flyby763
They do come with new clips, mine did anyway...sounds like yours got left off accidentally.
Really, they must have had a bad day at the factory because neither my front nor rear shocks had clips and I bought them from two different dealers because they were very difficult to find. Everyone was out of stock. Does KONI supply the clips or are they a different type?
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 09:33 PM
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So I can get educated, someone please explain what keeps the front shock shafts from sliding through the rubber and punching holes in the hood or coolant tank. The washer and nut that we can see under the hood will keep the shaft from falling down, but what keeps the shaft from getting pushed up by normal road impacts?

More pics are always welcome, too.
Thanks.
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 07:34 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
So I can get educated, someone please explain what keeps the front shock shafts from sliding through the rubber and punching holes in the hood or coolant tank. The washer and nut that we can see under the hood will keep the shaft from falling down, but what keeps the shaft from getting pushed up by normal road impacts?

More pics are always welcome, too.
Thanks.
You have the same setup on the bottom side. Big washer and rubber grommet. The shaft then has metal type ring to stop the washer from moving on the shaft.

Update! Sorry, I think your comment was meant as sarcasm, sorry for responding. Call me Shelton Cooper (Big Bang Theory)........

Last edited by timd38; Dec 1, 2014 at 07:37 AM.
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 11:11 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by timd38
You have the same setup on the bottom side. Big washer and rubber grommet. The shaft then has metal type ring to stop the washer from moving on the shaft.

Update! Sorry, I think your comment was meant as sarcasm, sorry for responding. Call me Shelton Cooper (Big Bang Theory)........
Thanks for the apology. But...
Actually, I was not being sarcastic. When I got the shocks, I just looked at them to see nothing appeared damaged, and put them in the trunk for the dealer to install. I also ordered all of the parts from the GM diagram that looked like they might be useful, told the tech to use whatever he wanted and return the rest. So I really don't understand how the mounting system works.

So you are saying that the little C-clip on the shaft, that ls1121 didn't get, keeps a big washer on the underside from sliding too far down the shaft and is the only thing that keeps the shaft from slipping upward to damage things?

If so, I'm amazed. But it wouldn't be the first time...
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 11:49 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
Thanks for the apology. But...
Actually, I was not being sarcastic. When I got the shocks, I just looked at them to see nothing appeared damaged, and put them in the trunk for the dealer to install.
This may help. Not a Corvette, but you will get the principle. Also, I would not let this guy work on a bicycle of mine......

Last edited by timd38; Dec 1, 2014 at 11:52 AM.
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 12:22 PM
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The video shows everything the way I though it should be, thanks.

But some of the discussion in this thread seems to be saying that the little C-clip is what keeps the shaft from pushing upward through the top mounting. In the video, the shaft was restrained by that nut and collar that hit the underside of the top mounting, and I thought the Bilstein HDs had the nut or something similar, already installed on the shaft- you just slide the big washer and rubber onto the shaft, slip the shaft through the upper mount, add the top rubber and washer, install the nut that's visible under the hood. Done.

Since I'm not sure if the dealer used the Bilstein washers and rubber, and bump stops, or GM, that's another possible problem.

What am I missing?

Last edited by Gearhead Jim; Dec 1, 2014 at 12:28 PM.
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 01:13 PM
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The clip is on the bottom, followed by the dust boot, washer, bushing, frame, bushing, washer, and the nut on top. When the nut is tightened it pushes all that together. If that clip breaks there is nothing on the bottom of the stack to hold everything together and the shaft would extend upward.
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by flyby763
The clip is on the bottom, followed by the dust boot, washer, bushing, frame, bushing, washer, and the nut on top. When the nut is tightened it pushes all that together. If that clip breaks there is nothing on the bottom of the stack to hold everything together and the shaft would extend upward.
Bingo, simple as that.

Disregard the video above, it is not like a Corvette and will confuse the issue.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 02:34 PM
  #39  
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I replaced Sports with DRM last month, clips are Bilstein as with the bump stop and retaining steel washer. Clip, steel washer, bump stop and dust boot, as a whole, is a simple mean, sufficiently to serve a designed function.

***As Randy said: "I looked at the other thread also. That washer that was removed above the bump stop was there for a reason. It isolates the bump stop from the rest of the mount." ***





The important thing with these clip, is not to over expand it during R&R. Just like clips used on the CompCam Trunions upgrade. They are tool spring steel, gotta treat it with kid's gloves - over extend them, might look OK, but microscopic fissures already formed. The end results might not be pretty and when you are least expected.



OEM bushing install in the same location followed dust boot - but - I have the Pfadt PinTop Delrin bushing in this case.

Hope these clear up a few thing.


Last edited by victorf; Dec 2, 2014 at 02:52 PM.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 05:53 PM
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Lurking.. getting ready to install my DRM valved Bilsteins and I'd like to be able to look at all these photos. Thanks guys!
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