Sway Bars - Road Course






Flush the brake fluid within two weeks before the event, DOT4 is nice but probably not necessary. Be sure the pads & rotors have lots of meat.
If you have the automatic tranny, you'll want a large cooler. Or cut your sessions short or risk damage.
When you eventually do suspension work, the rule of thumb is that if you stiffen the suspension at one end of the car, the other end grips better. So be careful about a bigger sway in the back, unless you balance it with a bigger sway in front, or bigger rear tires, etc.
Enjoy!





Flush the brake fluid within two weeks before the event, DOT4 is nice but probably not necessary. Be sure the pads & rotors have lots of meat.
If you have the automatic tranny, you'll want a large cooler. Or cut your sessions short or risk damage.
When you eventually do suspension work, the rule of thumb is that if you stiffen the suspension at one end of the car, the other end grips better. So be careful about a bigger sway in the back, unless you balance it with a bigger sway in front, or bigger rear tires, etc.
Enjoy!

I was taught to start with a stock-(ish) car. ie; stock power, stock suspension, stock brakes, and stock tires, assuming everything is in good working order. Then as you approach the limits of each, you can upgrade them as needed. Now of course that's no fun, but in respect to road racing, I'd definitely leave the suspension, brakes, and tires stock until you learn how the car reacts to your driving. Then, as Gearhead Jim suggested, as you make upgrades you try and keep the build balanced so the brakes don't outgrip the tires, the tires don't outgrip the suspension, etc. You'd be surprised what this car can do in stock trim.






