I have decided on the Elite Engineering unit.

It will needed to be removed every two years.

Do I need to go with the upgraded AN/JIC fittings for ease of removal?

Or will the standard barb be ok.

Brass is stock do I need the nickel or chrome?

Just want something that will not fail with removal.

No bling just going black and am not sure if the braided hose is worth it either. It would be the black hose with the steel inside.

Recommendations....

 

Standard Brass barred fitting work fine, but since they are the only brass fittings on the car, stand out like a sore thumb.

Nickle plated brass fittings look a lot better, and as for the hose clamps, once you have figured out the hose length needed, pull the fitting and hoses and take them to someone (plumbing supply store) to have silver Ferrules crimped on, instead of using spring clamps (only cost a few dollars).

Also to point out, since you are at the plumbing supply store, might want to see if they have some braided cover hoses to replace out the ugly hose that comes with the kit.

 

Thanks Dano 523.

Elite offers upgraded hose and fittings. I believe with the stock hose and clamp the brass will not be showing.

I am not crazy about the hose clamps either. But the pressure is minimal so probably no biggie other than aesthetics.

 

I am pretty sure the brass will show, as the plated ones do below. I used regular hose and spring clamps and I can tell you it is a real pain to get off those barbed fittings. I just took my can off and had to cut the hose at the can end to remove it. If you are removing the whole thing every 2 years for an inspection, just remove the hoses from the other end. It is much easier.

 

Perfect photo, and instead of the black spring clamps on the rubber holes with the ends of the rubber hoses showing , envision the silver ferule caps on the end of rubber lines to cap the ends of the rubber lines instead (like on the top braided steel lines in the photo I posted).
Note, look at the bottom of the radiator of the above photo, and you can see a rubber line that is ferule crimp capped to give you a ideal of the differences in finished appearances between crimped ferule and spring clip hoses (read no end of cut hose sticking out and looking unfinished).

If you need to pull the catch can, then you can pull the lines off the block/intake manifold lines to pull the catch can.

 

I went with black push lock fittings. Easy and cheap.

 

IMO, braided hose is an overkill in this application. A big beside, is the fact that, braided hose can be destructive to the surrounding softer materials, if vibration is present.

In my application, since I am **** - to prevent abrasion - notice the abundance of split loom, along with other protective materials installed, where there is an intersection of cross path, between rubber hose/electrical wire.

There is no significant pressure to speak of - basically it is just a pass through, notice I have not used any clamps on barbed fittings or my homemade fittings. I have not experienced any oil seepage. Given the restrictive space, unless he/she enjoys frustrations, I highly doubt anyone would install any manner of clamp on the "block/intake manifold" end of the catch can. Again, I have not.



Unless I have to do what Boomer111 have to, every couple of years, every time if I need to "pull" catch can - I would rather - not do it from the "block/intake manifold" end. Maybe for somebody else, "block/intake manifold" is no fun for me.

IMO. Unless system is pressurized, application of crimped hose end is an overkill, with needless complexity/expense.

In a nutshell, as long as there is barbs machined on the fittings, rubber hoses used are in good condition. It can be a neat/simple assembly, all without complexity.

 

Further clarification:-

Barb end is machined with multiple SAE 11 degree angled barb - to enhance resistance to pull out and provide "bite" to correct I.D. sized hose - as long as hose used remains flexible - sufficient push on fit for non pressurized system seal.

Hex'd end, taper thread has SAE 14 1/2 degree thread angle to provide "seal" as fitting is progressively tightened. This is a metal to metal seal, however, I am ****, a drop of liquid PTFE is used prior to assembly.

 

I have been thinking the upgraded fittings are overkill, especially since I do not bling by engine bay. Np pressure so the plain Jane hoses should suffice.

I appreciate the effort and all the ideas here.