clutch slipping?
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Joined: Sep 2014
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clutch slipping?
I just bought a 2008 lt2, I tried a couple pulls and at about 5k it just revs up near redline with out accelerating. I checked the clutch fluid and it was very dark, so I used rangers method of trading it out. Car pulls great up to about 5k. I found this forum and I'm pretty sure this is what's happening.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-corvette-general-discussion/2951728-is-my-clutch-slipping.html
What would you guys suggest?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-corvette-general-discussion/2951728-is-my-clutch-slipping.html
What would you guys suggest?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,629
I just bought a 2008 lt2, I tried a couple pulls and at about 5k it just revs up near redline with out accelerating. I checked the clutch fluid and it was very dark, so I used rangers method of trading it out. Car pulls great up to about 5k. I found this forum and I'm pretty sure this is what's happening.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-slipping.html
What would you guys suggest?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-slipping.html
What would you guys suggest?
The clutch fluid line has three restrictions in it to slow the fluid returning to the master cylinder, and this prevents clutch dump to the drive line (will cause the clutch to slip, instead of a hard lock up instead). When the fluid gets dirty, it slows down the fluid return to the master cylinder even more, ending up with the clutch slipping even more on a hard launch until enough fluid has returned to the master cylinder to allow the clutch to fully lock up (maybe, since if you get the OEM to start slipping and hammer the gas before it's fully locked up, the clutch may just keep on slipping and burn itself up).
With the fluid black, and hard launches already by how owned it before, the damage is already done to the clutch (was slipped a great deal already on launches and worn down the clutch), and now you are stuck installing a new clutch.
Clutch Burn up, where instead of back tires spinning, the clutch is just being slipped/burnt up instead since the clutch was not fully engaged before he started to hammer on the gas.
And yes, GM designed the clutch to do this, instead of the drive line getting hammered instead.
Last edited by Dano523; Dec 22, 2014 at 02:16 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 10,399
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From: Austin Texas
Clutch hydraulics (fluid/master cyl/slave cyl) have very little to do with the clutch slipping.
The clutch hydraulics hold the disc between the pressure plate and flywheel, the clutch just releases the disc from the pressure plate. The clutch doesn't slip by the hydraulics partially releasing the disc, it slips because the disc, pressure plate or flywheel is worn.
You could have a brand new clutch hydraulic setup and have clutch slip if the disc, pressure plate or flywheel are badly worn.
The clutch hydraulics hold the disc between the pressure plate and flywheel, the clutch just releases the disc from the pressure plate. The clutch doesn't slip by the hydraulics partially releasing the disc, it slips because the disc, pressure plate or flywheel is worn.
You could have a brand new clutch hydraulic setup and have clutch slip if the disc, pressure plate or flywheel are badly worn.
