Who's offended in here??

Anyways, reflush the clutch fluid yesterday twice a d will keep doing until clear. Is it supposed to stay clear after driving? Or will it still get brown/dark after driving?

 

Please tell me that you are not planning on climbing under the car, and just spent $20 or more for what a blown smart fuse will do instead.

http://xse.com/leres/z06/cags.html

And if you want a fuse with a resistor soldered into it, IM me an address and I will pull the one that I stuck in my car before I tuned it out in a tune instead (been too lazy to pull the resistor fuse back out and put the 10 amp one back in, or find someone local that needed it instead.

 

Once you get it to stay clear for a day or two, then maybe every few tank fill up's change the fluid in the reserve tank (don't worry about pedal pumps, normal driving will do that for you at that point) .


Bluntly, There is a problem with the OEM slave cylinder, and that is can allow clutch dust to enter the fluid and where the clutch dust comes from in the fluid to being with.

Missing for the slave cylinder sear is a forward swiper edges on the seal that would swipe all the dust forward as it moves outward in the cylinder. so instead, as the seal moving over the dust as it moved forward with a pedal push, to put the dust in the fluid behind the seal instead.

The dust is abrasive, so as it gets into the fluid, it also starts to case accelerated wear to the seals as well (and even the master cylinder body walls , since it plastic walled, and not a steel wall cylinder).

So when you changed the fluid the first time out, the dark stuff on top of the fluid was the pieces of the rubber seals, and the stuff on the bottom of the tank was the the clutch dust (and maybe some of the master cylinder wall as well).

To maker matter worse, trying to get to the slave cylinder bleed valve to power flush all the fluid out one shot (with cavitation during the power flush to lift out the clutch dust on the bottom of the cylinder), is not fun due to the amount of items that you need to take off first to get to it (it on the top/back of the bell housing).

So the with the ranger method, you are just changing the top fluid in the reserve tank, letting it mix with the contaminated lower fluid, and over times once you do manage to get the fluid semi clean, trying to stay in front of the build up clutch dust again that will be reintroduced to the fluid as well.

Bluntly, if it comes to the point down the road that you have to have the clutch replace, get a remote bleeder line installed at the same time. The end of the remote line ends up at the top of the engine bay area, so you just throw a power bleeder on the reserve tank, open the remote bleed valve and shove it into a Quart drink bottle, and power bleed the entire line with complete new fluid in a mater of a few mins.

 

Well thanks. Mine still dirty.. So I'm working on it. Yeah I.purchased a bypass. But I'm doing a oil change and trans/differential fluid change so I figured put it then.
Thanks for the offer. I guess if I can't fix it, then a shop will fix it. Our local corvette club has a dedicated guy at a dealership that works on all their corvette and is really good.

Will try first to remedy the problem

 

So today, apparently the trans/clutch decided to work properly. Today I was finally able to shift with little issues. I have still been flushing the clutch fluid. Getting it to stay more clean after drives. Maybe that's the issue? Anyways. Flushed again today and well see. Talked to the dealer that most corvette owner take their car around here and service dpt manager recommends to swap to synthetic teanny fluid and rear differential fluid to help with it.

 

Ok so had the fluid for the trans and differential changed to amsoil. Didn't really help the problem much.

However while doing my oil change, I installed the skip shift bypass. And that seems to have fixed the issue. I can now shift. No issue at all.
Car is stored now but will also align the shifter when I get back.

 

+1 I kinda figured you were experiencing the CAGS issue - glad to hear the bypass I recommended fixed the problem.

 

Thanks. Yeah. I was suprised. Guess I didn't have to swap the fluids but oh well over 4 year old car and probably never changed. I think its just maintenance anyways. But yes. Shifting now is on point.